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Old 04-13-2020, 12:45 PM   #1
Jdb
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State: Indiana
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THOR #17892
24.1 power box meltdown

Iíve been doing some mods on our 2018 24.1, and thought I should share the attached picture of the power center plastic housing deformed badly due to meltdown. This appears to be caused by the housing being located directly above a heat duct/register - less than 2Ē separation.

I rerouted the heat duct and register. This is something to watch, since heat is an enemy of the converter...and its housing

Dave
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Old 04-13-2020, 01:34 PM   #2
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Interesting, I wonder if that is specific to your model year (or even your coach)?

Our power box/converter is mounted lower and the furnace vent is forward (under the kitchen drawers). Of course, ours being a 2014: The Microwave is up top instead of under the counter (so that may be part of it).
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Old 04-13-2020, 01:38 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdb View Post
Iíve been doing some mods on our 2018 24.1, and thought I should share the attached picture of the power center plastic housing deformed badly due to meltdown. This appears to be caused by the housing being located directly above a heat duct/register - less than 2Ē separation.

I rerouted the heat duct and register. This is something to watch, since heat is an enemy of the converter...and its housing

Dave
I don't believe your furnace can put out enough heat to do that. BUT your converter can do it from the inside if the fan is not running.
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Old 04-13-2020, 02:37 PM   #4
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So I went over and fired up the furnace and measured the temperature of the furnace housing at the corner closest to the converter plastic housing (used my Fluke handheld). You can see in the picture how close the two are - perhaps an inch.

It showed 224.8 F - I believe that is plenty hot enough to melt plastic. Interestingly, the temperature of other areas of the furnace housing decrease pretty dramatically as I moved my meter further from that corner

The fan on the converter operates as it should

Now I need to figure out why that corner is so hot, and if I need to remedy a problem before it causes a much bigger problem

Dave
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Old 04-13-2020, 02:49 PM   #5
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FYI

An interesting website Re plastic melting/softening temps:
https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-me...int-of-plastic

225 F is hot enough to soften, if not melt many plastics

Dave
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Old 04-13-2020, 03:49 PM   #6
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That's plenty hot to soften, and yours was softened not melted.
Melt. In terms of plastic requires a reorganization, like a puddle or adaption to a mold.
Soften. Retains a semblance of definition of shape.

Any heat gun or hair dryer will allow you to put the piece back into a not pristine, but reasonably bservicable shape.

Please do an update when you've resolved it all.
I'll check my system based on your update.
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Old 04-14-2020, 12:55 PM   #7
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I have the same unit. Have run heat a lot witthout issue. One time for 4 days with highs in 30s. I do check all the electrical connections. Maybe some of your ducts are blocked forcing too much concentration.
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Old 04-14-2020, 01:16 PM   #8
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Thank you. I will be checking for any possible Issues with this furnace.

Have you checked your power center housing for distortion?

Dave
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Old 04-14-2020, 01:21 PM   #9
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Personally I'd use this as an excuse to upgrade the converter to something a bit better...
Like a Progressive Dynamics unit.

Er once you've determined the cause and solution for the melting, of course.
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Old 04-14-2020, 01:31 PM   #10
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Excellent idea!

As luck would have it, I picked up a Xantrex SW2512 current control center (Inverter, charger, generator controller, lots more) for a super price yesterday afternoon. It will replace the charger functions, and I will be selling our perfectly good AIMS 2000 pure sine wave inverter

Dave
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Old 04-14-2020, 04:58 PM   #11
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https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f2...tml#post227864

This link has pictures of my xantrex sw2512 installation in a 24.1
Buy the control pad or the programming is a miserable thing to do.
The xantrex ags spliced into four wires (I think I'm remembering that right) and it controls with the 2512 controller.

Anyway, take a look at the link. It was as close to the batteries as I could get it and it is way out of sight Taking up no storage space.

If you need pics or measurements just pm me.
I'm bored, the 24.1 is in its house and pics are pretty easy to get.

(buy a circuit breaker instead of the 350amp fuse they don't include. I wish I had. You'll never blow it, but if it does, it's a tough one to find and I have to carry a spare AND the breaker is less money)
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Old 04-14-2020, 09:42 PM   #12
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Thank you. I will be checking for any possible Issues with this furnace.

Have you checked your power center housing for distortion?

Dave
Yes. I had to change converter main power board once. Was in summer after cold weather use. We used full tank of propane on one trip between heat, hot water and cooking. I check all connections and the water heater power connections behind air intake now. There is bunch of stuff in a tight spot.
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Old 04-14-2020, 10:41 PM   #13
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I’m going to be looking into the high heat issue next week. Can’t get to it this week

I’ll post what I learn. I will call the manufacturer of the furnace to find out if 225 degrees F is unusual or out of design specs

Dave
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Old 04-24-2020, 06:34 PM   #14
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im replacing my power center now because my batteries stopped charging and I no longer hear the fan kick in. opened it up and saw that the housing is distorted and fan warped. The power center is mounted within inches of the furnace housing, ill post pics when done. I came on now, before I install new center to see if others have had same issue, and looks like it. So im going to use some heat shield before install.
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Old 04-25-2020, 03:21 AM   #15
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ended up with heat shield on the power box and wrapped the ducts. metal taped the duct connections to the heater because the twist on collars had gaps. came out good. while at it, I checked how the charging system worked. with the charging relay in my 2018 vegas, the inverter will charge the house and the cassis batteries together only if the key is in the on position to charge the chassis . the alt will charge both house and coach batteries while engine on.

https://www.thorforums.com/forums/me...cture1184.html
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Old 04-25-2020, 07:07 PM   #16
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I just went out and checked my box. Is separated from furnace box by a fair amount of space. I removed the panel between bottom drawer and power center. Looked at bottom, top and backside with mirror and looked at interior of converter box. No distrotion anywhere. Everything looks fine.

Is it possible your power box are mounted further forward than mine? Do you have 8" dummy between power box and sink cabinet?

I see issues like this is always worth looking at. I started keeping window unlocked when we heard about trimark plunger issue on this board.
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Old 04-25-2020, 08:17 PM   #17
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at the back plastic corner between the power center and the metal furnace plenum where the ducts run off, I can't place my finger in between them. and they run along side each other for about 2" on the majority of the side of the power is where the ducts start and with the gaps on the twist in collars, air loss shooting right into the power could not have helped.
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