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07-24-2020, 12:33 AM
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#41
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Site Team
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: ACE 27.1
State: Florida
Posts: 14,117
THOR #7035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EA37TS
In my county, if you are zoned residential you cannot have an RV or boat sitting in the front or side of your house. I am on 2.5 acres of land zoned agricultural and have no problems. My neighbor across the road has to have his boat and TT stored at a lot down the road.
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I emigrated from Virginuckistan in the early 80's and never looked back.
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Ted & Melinda
2016 ACE 27.1
2016 Chevy Sonic Toad - Selling
2020 Chevy Colorado Z71 Trail Runner Toad
2024 Chevrolet Trax 2RS - Soon 2B TOAD
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07-29-2020, 06:14 PM
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#42
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Junior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: ACE 30.1
State: New York
Posts: 8
THOR #3007
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Go 50 amp! Once and done!! You need an electrician to go into your main breaker box, so go big 😉
That’s what I did
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07-29-2020, 06:43 PM
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#43
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: California
Posts: 877
THOR #17478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
We're putting a 30 amp outlet by our pad. The Missus has guaranteed me that we'll never buy a 50 amp rig.
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Well ... Never Say Never! - Charles Dickens's Pickwick Papers (1837). Murphy can bite you!
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07-29-2020, 06:53 PM
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#44
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Florida
Posts: 141
THOR #15410
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I have 50 , but have a 30 amp RV now .
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07-29-2020, 07:05 PM
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#45
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Junior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 45MJ
State: Indiana
Posts: 13
THOR #17712
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClassCnewbie
I just had a new PAd pured for me to park my RV beside my Garage. I have the opportunity to run Electric out there. Is it smarter and safer to go ahead and have an electrician install 30 amp hookup so when The RV sits out there in between camping trips. Or is it better to just use the reducer and plug it in to my 110 outlet?
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30 amp
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07-29-2020, 07:11 PM
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#46
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Vegas 24.1 - Sold it!
State: Tennessee
Posts: 282
THOR #6513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClassCnewbie
I just had a new PAd pured for me to park my RV beside my Garage. I have the opportunity to run Electric out there. Is it smarter and safer to go ahead and have an electrician install 30 amp hookup so when The RV sits out there in between camping trips. Or is it better to just use the reducer and plug it in to my 110 outlet?
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Regardless run a #6 gauge 3 conductor with ground. You can then wire a 20 or 30 or 50 amp service as wanted. The extra wire is cheap. Doing it again is expensive. Wishing you had done it to begin with is priceless.
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2017 Vegas 24.1
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07-29-2020, 07:32 PM
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#47
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Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: North Carolina
Posts: 60
THOR #11509
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Using a common extension cord from your house/garage is fine for keeping your batteries charged, and running lights and such. But you cannot run the AC. I my case, that's no big deal because best practices has you running up the generator and AC monthly anyway. But if you're going to the trouble of having power professionally installed, run a 30/50A line, depending on your anticipated need.
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07-29-2020, 07:52 PM
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#48
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Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Windsport 35C
State: Indiana
Posts: 92
THOR #16561
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For the price of wire, I went with the 50 amp.
If I want to work on something in the camper, it cools down much faster with both a/c's running.
I have plenty of outlets scattered around the exterior of the barn to charge batteries.
If I need to plug the vacuum cleaner in out in the middle of the barn, there are outlets on the side of the camper that will run it.
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07-29-2020, 07:57 PM
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#49
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Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Arizona
Posts: 85
THOR #6671
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We purchased a 30-amp coach, 32-foot with one AC and installed a 30-amp service at the house. Wish we had gone with 50-amp at the time, because we just recently added a second AC to our coach and increased coach to 50-amp service. You may think you'll never need 50, but I recommend going that route as it ultimately is cheaper in the long run.
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07-29-2020, 08:43 PM
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#50
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Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 24.1 Axis
State: Minnesota
Posts: 68
THOR #15131
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I ran a 30 amp line out to a pedestal. Make sure that you use a 110 volt 30 amp GFCI breaker NOT A 220 VOLT and have it wired into a 110 volt 30 amp receptacle NOT A 220 VOLT.
Often electricians make the mistake of wiring like a dryer with 220 volts which will cause much smoke, fire, sparks, and destruction.
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Deadeyedick
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07-29-2020, 11:00 PM
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#51
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Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Infinity
State: Pennsylvania
Posts: 45
THOR #12753
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We are putting one in at our house. Definitely beats the 110.
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BMcGough3
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07-30-2020, 11:45 AM
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#52
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Junior Member
Brand: Still Looking
State: Ohio
Posts: 10
THOR #15963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClassCnewbie
I just had a new PAd pured for me to park my RV beside my Garage. I have the opportunity to run Electric out there. Is it smarter and safer to go ahead and have an electrician install 30 amp hookup so when The RV sits out there in between camping trips. Or is it better to just use the reducer and plug it in to my 110 outlet?
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I was just debating over what would be best if I setup the side lots we just purchased and decided I would set it up for 50/30/20 just like they do in the RV resorts. Had 30 but now need 50 and if we did downsize we would still have the 30. I would rather have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.
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07-30-2020, 12:15 PM
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#53
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I Think We're Lost!
Brand: Still Looking
Model: Tiffin Wayfarer 24 BW
State: New York
Posts: 22,195
THOR #8860
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... Add some sources for water, sewer hookup, and cable TV: you'll never want to go back to the house!
What time do they pick up the garbage?
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"What: me worry?"
Good Sam Member 843599689
Current coach: Tiffin Wayfarer 24 BW
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07-30-2020, 12:17 PM
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#54
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Senior Member
Brand: Still Looking
State: Texas
Posts: 6,187
THOR #2121
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My 2 cents .....
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClassCnewbie
I just had a new PAd pured for me to park my RV beside my Garage. I have the opportunity to run Electric out there. Is it smarter and safer to go ahead and have an electrician install 30 amp hookup so when The RV sits out there in between camping trips. Or is it better to just use the reducer and plug it in to my 110 outlet?
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It must be easy to spend someone else’s money.
In my opinion it’s not possible to say what is “smart” based on the information you provided. Only you can decide for yourself based on how much it’s going to cost (which is a big factor), what you’re going to power while parked at home, and how much value you place on convenience. Some owners only want to power converter to keep batteries charged, and others may want to air condition or heat the motorhome.
What is also not clear (in addition to how you plan to use RV while parked) is how electrical upgrade is related to concrete pad. If pad is already done, is there a financial advantage to do electrical now? If not, and your electrical needs are modest, why not try existing first? These are types of questions only the owner paying the bill can evaluate.
Deferring unnecessary expenditures is often considered a smart financial move, particularly when there’s no associated penalty for delaying.
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07-30-2020, 08:03 PM
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#55
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Missouri
Posts: 2,324
THOR #6903
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chance
It must be easy to spend someone else’s money.
In my opinion it’s not possible to say what is “smart” based on the information you provided. Only you can decide for yourself based on how much it’s going to cost (which is a big factor), what you’re going to power while parked at home, and how much value you place on convenience. Some owners only want to power converter to keep batteries charged, and others may want to air condition or heat the motorhome.
What is also not clear (in addition to how you plan to use RV while parked) is how electrical upgrade is related to concrete pad. If pad is already done, is there a financial advantage to do electrical now? If not, and your electrical needs are modest, why not try existing first? These are types of questions only the owner paying the bill can evaluate.
Deferring unnecessary expenditures is often considered a smart financial move, particularly when there’s no associated penalty for delaying.
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Great advice
Running a larger conduit is very inexpensive and allows larger wires to easily be pulled later
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07-31-2020, 12:07 AM
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#56
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Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Vegas 27.7
State: Georgia
Posts: 32
THOR #14579
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Remember, 120v not 220v. You could have a disaster if not careful.
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07-31-2020, 12:22 AM
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#57
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Site Team
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: ACE 27.1
State: Florida
Posts: 14,117
THOR #7035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lwmcguire
Great advice
Running a larger conduit is very inexpensive and allows larger wires to easily be pulled later
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Conduit? Not required for outdoor direct burial cable.
__________________
Ted & Melinda
2016 ACE 27.1
2016 Chevy Sonic Toad - Selling
2020 Chevy Colorado Z71 Trail Runner Toad
2024 Chevrolet Trax 2RS - Soon 2B TOAD
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07-31-2020, 12:23 AM
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#58
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Site Team
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: ACE 27.1
State: Florida
Posts: 14,117
THOR #7035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ajax1000
Remember, 120v not 220v. You could have a disaster if not careful.
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For the 30 Amp plug. The 50 Amp is 240 VAC.
__________________
Ted & Melinda
2016 ACE 27.1
2016 Chevy Sonic Toad - Selling
2020 Chevy Colorado Z71 Trail Runner Toad
2024 Chevrolet Trax 2RS - Soon 2B TOAD
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07-31-2020, 01:02 AM
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#59
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Missouri
Posts: 2,324
THOR #6903
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16ACE27
Conduit? Not required for outdoor direct burial cable.
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Run conduit and avoid problems later,
Yes you can bury but is sure difficult to repair if needed
I have had ground squirrels eat into it
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08-01-2020, 07:26 PM
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#60
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Palazzo
State: Colorado
Posts: 105
THOR #13375
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But what if you have company that needs 50 amps?
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RonC3
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