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Old 09-28-2019, 06:37 AM   #21
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Wiper post (Hijack)

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Originally Posted by rynosback View Post
Well after rereading your post, I would say you had a wrong fuse in there. As a wiper motor is going to draw more then 5 amps. If you look at your fuse panel it should tell you what the proper fuse should be. You should check it to make sure.
I was looking at different fuse panel diagrams for Ford truck chassis and the wiper motor alone uses a 30 amp fuse, but the wiper relay was either 10 or 15 amp.
But the posters situation may be different.

Stay cool

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Old 09-28-2019, 02:37 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by OldWEB View Post
I was looking at different fuse panel diagrams for Ford truck chassis and the wiper motor alone uses a 30 amp fuse, but the wiper relay was either 10 or 15 amp.
But the posters situation may be different.

Stay cool
I would agree. That is why I quoted the person that I was addressing. As a 5 amp fuse is WAY to small for the windshield wipers. I would think a 30 amp fuse would be WAY to big for the windshield wipers. I stick with my original post. NEVER put a higher fuse then what is called for. The engineers designed any circuit to have the fuse as a weak point. Trust me that there is NO manufacture that places heavier gage wires in a circuit and a little fuse. It’s not cost effective for them.
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Old 09-28-2019, 03:52 PM   #23
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When I purchased a Class C several years ago, I blew many fuses on the way home that cut out my back up camera and cab lights. I would replace the fuse and everything would be fine, but as I drove down the road the fuse would blow again. Turns out after much searching that when they put the coach together, someone had put a screw thru the insulation of a wire and when the coach flexed just right, that screw would make contact with the wire and short that wire to ground, blowing the fuse. Then the wire would move back away from the screw and everything would be fine - after you changed the fuse and before the coach flexed the same way again. It was a simple fix - reinsulate the wire and move the screw, but it was maddening while it was happening and trying to find it.
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Old 09-28-2019, 04:33 PM   #24
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Please say it isn't true. That would probably be beyond my capability to find. I set up a mirror so that I could watch the panel as I pulled in the slides and there was no problem. I'm keeping the panel open and will try to glance at it on occasion as I bump down the road.
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Old 09-28-2019, 05:35 PM   #25
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What Oneilkeys says could explain the 5 amp fuse blowing randomly.....especially when under way and the coach is moving. Why does the slide not work when the 5 amp fuse is blown though......especially when the slide controller is powered by a 30 amp fuse (typically – I assume the same in your coach but perhaps not). That’s why I was asking previously about checking for power at the slide controller unit, when you pull and replace the 5 amp fuse......might also try the 30 amp fuse too to see if that connects power to the slide controller as it should.
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Old 09-28-2019, 05:39 PM   #26
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One other comment is that power from the 30 amp fuse to the slide controller may not actually be applied until the slide switch (extend/retract) is activated as well.....so be aware of that if testing.
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Old 09-28-2019, 09:58 PM   #27
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FYI. Well according to the Lippert - Schwintec Slide Service Manual the general slide schematic shows the fused battery power feed directly connected to the slide controller power port and also to the extend/retract switch......so 12.6 vdc should be present on the power connection at the slide controller without operating the slide control switch. This of course assumes the factory wired it as such. Picture attached:
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Old 09-28-2019, 10:04 PM   #28
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I have just pulled into Portland and for the last 3 hours I have listened to the automatic jacks beep at me for low power. I have an appt Monday morning at a Camping World at 9:00am.

In the meantime I will investigate.
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Old 09-30-2019, 06:29 PM   #29
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Camping World doesn't have an electrical tech available today to work on my rig so I have to come back tomorrow. The service person said he needed the wiring diagrams and couldn't find them on the Thor site. I gave him the schematics I had requested from Thor but he didn't think they were good enough. He feels it would be better to rewire than try to find the short. This makes me uneasy. I don't know where to start with the multi meter. So, as of now, I am scheduled to be back here at 8:30 tomorrow morning. I bought 10 more 5 amp fuses. Maybe I should just replace them at night when I camp and wait to get home and go to a reputable shop I have confidence in. Thoughts?
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Old 09-30-2019, 08:00 PM   #30
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Is it possible to post an image of the schematic you have of the slide/detector circuit?
One other option, can you disconnect the detectors and see if the fuse would still blow? Keeping in mind that you are not using the LP or napping... Just something to try.
I myself would avoid the snake pit... you did have an appointment for an electrical problem and they still have no one to help, wasting yer time.


Stay cool
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Old 09-30-2019, 09:18 PM   #31
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Well, based on comments on this forum regarding Camping World I am afraid for your wallet. If you are stranded with no recourse then you don’t have a choice sometimes. You will have to weigh your pros/cons on that one. Mobile tech might be an alternative?



I have been thinking about why the slides quit when the 5 amp fuse blows. Try something for me. If the 5 amp fuse is plugged in and has not blown.......pull it out of the fuse holder. Does your slide still extend and retract normally? If yes, I wonder if the slide is only affected during the intermittent grounding or shorting event that actually blows the 5 amp fuse?


So bear with me while I “blather” now.......If Oneilkeys is correct and there is a staple or screw intermittently causing a short on the 5amp fuse wire circuit which powers the propane/co detector, then how would that also affect the 30 amp slide control circuit without also blowing the 30 amp slide fuse? What else is there that could cause the slides to stop working at the same time? The only thing I can think of is the slide lockout relay is somehow operating when the 5 amp fuse has blown and ignition is off (opens its NC contacts to remove power from slide switch control).........or, the 12.6vdc power feed through the non-operated (NC) slide lockout relay contacts to the slide control switch on the wall is also opening intermittently from this screw?


Normally when ignition is on, the slide lockout relay would operate and stop power to the slide controller (or at least stop the 30 amp power feed through now open lockout relay contacts to the slide extend/retract switch). In my coach the propane/co detector wires run in the same bedroom wall cavity as the slide control switch. This would conveniently put a staple or screw in position to potentially affect wires for both circuits. Still not sure how that would work exactly though. As Camping World says maybe running a new fused feed to the propane/co detector and isolating the original feed wires at both ends will isolate the problem for both circuits?
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Old 10-02-2019, 09:10 PM   #32
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A couple of things. I got interrupted in reading this thread but I think you said you had a multi meter. Even a $3 one from harbor freight will work. Put it in amp mode and see how much current you are drawing during the different scenarios.



Brut force testing. The wiring will handle 10amps even if the load is suppose to only be 5 amps.



Now back 50 years ago when the yellow cab radios weighed 50 pounds and were the size of a small suitcase, I was at the radio shop and the worker was trying to track down why the 50 amp radio fuse was blowing. The owner told the guy just keep putting in bigger fuses til you can follow the smoke. You gotta do what you gotta do.
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Old 10-02-2019, 09:18 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by flrockytop View Post
A couple of things. I got interrupted in reading this thread but I think you said you had a multi meter. Even a $3 one from harbor freight will work. Put it in amp mode and see how much current you are drawing during the different scenarios.



Brut force testing. The wiring will handle 10amps even if the load is suppose to only be 5 amps.



Now back 50 years ago when the yellow cab radios weighed 50 pounds and were the size of a small suitcase, I was at the radio shop and the worker was trying to track down why the 50 amp radio fuse was blowing. The owner told the guy just keep putting in bigger fuses til you can follow the smoke. You gotta do what you gotta do.
Tried and true troubleshooting technique!
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Old 10-02-2019, 11:39 PM   #34
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There may be a fuse that could go into that fuse slot that's is a small breaker, do install it and instead of blowing fuse it'll break then cool off a reset. BUT BE SURE ITS A SMALL AMP BREAKER!! DONT NEED THINGS BURNING UP. Or run a separate wire to slide motor and bypass the fuse. Mines runs off house batteries
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Old 10-03-2019, 02:49 AM   #35
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A couple of days ago, I went to put out the slides and there was no power. It was late, so i went to bed and waited'til morning. In the morning I discovered the 5amp fuse was lit up in the fuse panel. I replaced it and all went back to normal. Yesterday, the same thing happened and I replaced the fuse again. And again. About the 4th time, the fuse arcked. According to the description inside the fuse box, the 5 amp is for the LP & CO detector.

I am out on the road in Crescent City, CA. The two automotive shops I have been to are too busy to take a look at it for several days. I have a call in to a mobile RV repair but don't know how long it may take him to respond. I am a couple of days away from making Portland. Without slides, I'm mostly inconvenienced by not being able to get the coffee maker out not walk around the bed, but certainly liveable.

I am no electrician but willing to try any fix. Can you give me advice for what tip look for? Is it dyi? Should I push on to a big city for a possible repair shop? I'm in my first week of a month long adventure. I am also attending a women's rv rally in Mt Hood beginning a week from today. I would appreciate any response/advice.
According to the slider control wiring diagram, here is what I would go about finding your problem:
1. When the slide is working, verify the "manufacture supplied lockout" input voltage. (see the slide controller wiring diagram)
2. Pull out the 5 amp fuse and measure the same terminal to see if the voltage has changed.
My theory is the slider lockout circuit include not only when the engine is running but also other events such as smoke/CO detector activated etc...
Hope this is your problem...
Now, once you have confirmed the problem is coming from lockout relay, we can focus the trouble shooting to the lockout logic.
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Old 10-03-2019, 03:11 AM   #36
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The slide controller can have 2 power sources. One for the motors and one for the switch.

Your diagram shows power from a battery source, which would be the 30 amp higher current required to operate the slide motors. That power sits at the controller waiting for you to push the retract or extend side of the switch. Your diagram shows the power from the battery source also goes through the switch then to the controller. That’s to direct the power already sitting there through the controller and to the correct side of the motors.

So, what I’m suggesting is that the battery source in the diagram is your 30 amp power and is only connected to the controller to power the motors. The switch power might be from the same 5 amp source as your LP/CO detectors. The switch power probably goes to a relay circuit in the controller only needed to allow the higher current power to route through the controller and to the correct side of the motor. Relays usually only require low current to energize.

Just a theory, but the problem might be an intermittent short in the 5 amp LP/CO circuit or a faulty detector drawing too much current. I too have experienced the issue with a screw driven through a wire, although it was a 120VAC wire, same issue.
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Old 10-03-2019, 03:33 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by Lefty02 View Post
The slide controller can have 2 power sources. One for the motors and one for the switch.

Your diagram shows power from a battery source, which would be the 30 amp higher current required to operate the slide motors. That power sits at the controller waiting for you to push the retract or extend side of the switch. Your diagram shows the power from the battery source also goes through the switch then to the controller. That’s to direct the power already sitting there through the controller and to the correct side of the motors.

So, what I’m suggesting is that the battery source in the diagram is your 30 amp power and is only connected to the controller to power the motors. The switch power might be from the same 5 amp source as your LP/CO detectors. The switch power probably goes to a relay circuit in the controller only needed to allow the higher current power to route through the controller and to the correct side of the motor. Relays usually only require low current to energize.

Just a theory, but the problem might be an intermittent short in the 5 amp LP/CO circuit or a faulty detector drawing too much current. I too have experienced the issue with a screw driven through a wire, although it was a 120VAC wire, same issue.
The battery depicted in the wiring diagram does not implies the current draw. It only show there is a +12v supply voltage goes into the lockout circuit. The amount of power draw is based on wire and fuse size. My theory is the correlation between the slider operation and smoke/CO detector is the slider's lockout logic. A good way to troubleshoot a problem is first define the problem and then followed by a conjecture/assumption that yield high degree of reasoning. Next, test your theory to narrow down the path you need to focus on next....
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Old 10-03-2019, 01:40 PM   #38
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I guess I didn’t explain we’ll enough. You may be right, but I’m trying to keep it simple first and not automatically go for the cosmic fix right off the bat.

As an aircraft electrician I can tell you that most troubleshooting approaches are way over-thought and the fix is usually staring you in the face. L
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Old 10-03-2019, 03:19 PM   #39
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I was not implying the battery in the diagram represented high current draw (not power draw as you stated; current and power are two different things). Also, wire size and fuse size is based on current draw, not the other way around.

Okay, let’s say we change the word “battery” in the diagram to “30 amp fuse.” Disconnect the wire going to the switch from the 30 amp fuse. Then draw another fuse and call it “5 amp fuse.” Connect the switch wire you disconnected from the 30 amp fuse to the 5 amp fuse. Now we have 2 separate circuits. Troubleshoot the one that’s blowing the fuse first. BTW...the LP/CO detectors might be tied into the same 5 amp circuit.

That’s all I was suggesting, nothing more. Impossible to tell without the correct wiring diagram, which may also show the lockout system tied in as well. Just saying. I’d start with continuity checks to ground in all the suspected areas/components with and without the engine running if that’s what activates the lockout.
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Old 10-03-2019, 07:20 PM   #40
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Different

As someone who has had a couple of campers, the one thing I know for sure is even within the same maker, many things are different. On my present motorhome the slides run off a 15 amp fuse. You might go through your owners manual to check yours. As a sidenote I have found 2 electrical breakers mislabeled on the breaker box which were properly labeled in the manual for amps so maybe an electrician or if you know enough about them using a volt meter could tell you one way or the other.
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