Originally Posted by Lefty02
I was not implying the battery in the diagram represented high current draw (not power draw as you stated; current and power are two different things). Also, wire size and fuse size is based on current draw, not the other way around.
Okay, let’s say we change the word “battery” in the diagram to “30 amp fuse.” Disconnect the wire going to the switch from the 30 amp fuse. Then draw another fuse and call it “5 amp fuse.” Connect the switch wire you disconnected from the 30 amp fuse to the 5 amp fuse. Now we have 2 separate circuits. Troubleshoot the one that’s blowing the fuse first. BTW...the LP/CO detectors might be tied into the same 5 amp circuit.
That’s all I was suggesting, nothing more. Impossible to tell without the correct wiring diagram, which may also show the lockout system tied in as well. Just saying. I’d start with continuity checks to ground in all the suspected areas/components with and without the engine running if that’s what activates the lockout.
Ok, We are going the wrong direction here. First, thank you for the clarification of power vs. current with respect to the fuse rating. However, the problem is not directly connected to the 30 amp circuit. The 30 amp fuse is perfectly happy and did not puffing any smoke through out the journey. So, the question is why the 5 amp fuse keep arcs its way and burns the bridge? And, when this happen, why the slider is not operative?
There are some clues we have here: (this is not complicated, you can deduce all of the followings in a matter of minutes).
1. The 5 amp fuse may be part of the slider's lockout logic.
2. The lockout logic may also related to LP/CO detector circuit.
3. LP/CO detector may not be the one caused the 5 amp fuse blown.
4. We know the 5 amp fuse circuit is not a permanent short all the time.
Step one troubleshooting:
1. Verify the lockout logic before and after the 5 amp fuse changing of state. A possible way but not the same as blown fuse is try to remove the 5 amp fuse.
2. If the lockout logic inhibited the slider to operate then we have ONLY explained the the reason why the 5 amp fuse has anything to do with the slider operation. Nothing else at this point.
Now, we need to focus on which wire caused the 5 amp fuse to blown?
1. Disconnect one wire at a time on the other side of the non +12v fuse terminal. There may only be just one wire then, you may have to trace this wire until there is a branch circuit.
2. Once you have found the wire, our focus is now to decide if the over current condition is result of a faulty device or any intermittence short circuit?
On the other hand, if the lockout logic is not the reason that caused the slider to cease operation after 5 amp fuse blown out. We now have more complex troubleshooting and requires higher skill set. You need to have the full slider schematic to pin point where is the control wire that affect the slider's operation. Unless you are a highly skilled tech/engineer (like myself with 40 years of experience in designing industrial control and automation, home automation, micro-chip, system architect, software engineer, operating system etc...) I would call the factory tech support for further direction...