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03-03-2018, 06:52 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Brand: Still Looking
State: Tennessee
Posts: 297
THOR #7227
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Adhesive or sealant
Here is the area
What adhesive or sealant would be best for here
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03-03-2018, 07:33 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Freedom Elite 29fe
State: Florida
Posts: 700
THOR #4656
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Same thing happened to mine only the trim fell off while washing it in the driveway. Only 1 of 3 screws holding it on other two were not screwed into anything. I used 3m 4200 marine sealant. Expensive sealant but it's adhesive strength is superior to just about everything else, except 3M 5200 which is a forever fix and can not be removed should you wish to do so in the future. There is a solvent made specifically to remove it, but not worth the effort.
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03-03-2018, 09:06 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Brand: Still Looking
State: Tennessee
Posts: 297
THOR #7227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nosticks
Same thing happened to mine only the trim fell off while washing it in the driveway. Only 1 of 3 screws holding it on other two were not screwed into anything. I used 3m 4200 marine sealant. Expensive sealant but it's adhesive strength is superior to just about everything else, except 3M 5200 which is a forever fix and can not be removed should you wish to do so in the future. There is a solvent made specifically to remove it, but not worth the effort.
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I assume it is made to have some give and flex as I see that as a requirement for this area? I have the three screws but have not checked how well it is attached yet?
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03-03-2018, 09:11 PM
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#4
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I Think We're Lost!
Brand: Still Looking
Model: Tiffin Wayfarer 24 BW
State: New York
Posts: 22,195
THOR #8860
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I vote for epoxy...
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03-03-2018, 09:41 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Freedom Elite 29fe
State: Florida
Posts: 700
THOR #4656
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JamJanTan, I don't see the need for flex in this area. By the way, the other side was not loose but had a gap that I filled with a clear sealer, don't remember the name of it, but I works well wet or dry. So far so good.
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03-03-2018, 09:45 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Brand: Still Looking
State: Tennessee
Posts: 297
THOR #7227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nosticks
JamJanTan, I don't see the need for flex in this area. By the way, the other side was not loose but had a gap that I filled with a clear sealer, don't remember the name of it, but I works well wet or dry. So far so good.
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Just thinking that traveling down the road at 65 MPH that area is going to have some stresses on it. But I have heard mention of the marine adhesive sealant in several other posts so may give it a try. Thanks
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03-03-2018, 10:16 PM
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#7
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Site Team
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: ACE 27.1
State: Florida
Posts: 14,374
THOR #7035
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2nd for the 4200 although I would probably go with 5200 as I see no need to take it apart.
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Ted & Melinda
2016 ACE 27.1
2016 Chevy Sonic Toad - Selling
2020 Chevy Colorado Z71 Trail Runner Toad
2024 Chevrolet Trax 2RS - Soon 2B TOAD
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03-03-2018, 10:37 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Brand: Still Looking
State: Tennessee
Posts: 297
THOR #7227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tfryman
2nd for the 4200 although I would probably go with 5200 as I see no need to take it apart.
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Think you are probably right about no need to take apart but ordered the 4200 so be it. What thinks everyone about a good all purpose sealant to seal all joints with each year. Hopefully not as expensive as 4200.
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03-03-2018, 11:06 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Hurricane 35C
State: South Dakota
Posts: 1,132
THOR #3761
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I just used Gorilla Glue on some of our loose trim. Other than expanding a little (which I knew it would) it has good hold and is a great value.
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John
2016 Thor Hurricane 35C with pups Piper and Annabelle
2013 Ford Fiesta toad
FMCA - F457085
Blog - https://traversity.us
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03-03-2018, 11:40 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Brand: Still Looking
State: Tennessee
Posts: 297
THOR #7227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmihalk
I just used Gorilla Glue on some of our loose trim. Other than expanding a little (which I knew it would) it has good hold and is a great value.
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Something to keep in mind. I’m thinking whether I need to clamp the trim over went I patch or just fill with glue.
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03-03-2018, 11:44 PM
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#11
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I Think We're Lost!
Brand: Still Looking
Model: Tiffin Wayfarer 24 BW
State: New York
Posts: 22,195
THOR #8860
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You'll definitely want to get that piece back into place...
Can you use Duct Tape; to secure it, while it sets up?
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"What: me worry?"
Good Sam Member 843599689
Current coach: Tiffin Wayfarer 24 BW
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03-03-2018, 11:56 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Brand: Still Looking
State: Tennessee
Posts: 297
THOR #7227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
You'll definitely want to get that piece back into place...
Can you use Duct Tape; to secure it, while it sets up?
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Yeah I’m thinking I need it to be as close as I can glue it
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03-04-2018, 12:05 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Hurricane 35C
State: South Dakota
Posts: 1,132
THOR #3761
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamJanTan
Yeah I’m thinking I need it to be as close as I can glue it
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I used clear packing tape on ours when I did the trim reglue. I would think that duct tape would also work, I am always leery of having residue after putting tape on the walls.
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John
2016 Thor Hurricane 35C with pups Piper and Annabelle
2013 Ford Fiesta toad
FMCA - F457085
Blog - https://traversity.us
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03-04-2018, 12:33 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Brand: Still Looking
State: Tennessee
Posts: 297
THOR #7227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmihalk
I used clear packing tape on ours when I did the trim reglue. I would think that duct tape would also work, I am always leery of having residue after putting tape on the walls.
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I’m with you about residue. Thanks for the idea
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03-04-2018, 12:45 AM
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#15
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Axis/Vegas Enthusiast
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Axis 24.4
State: Michigan
Posts: 9,837
THOR #1150
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You could try using the blue painter's tape: supposed to be easy to remove and no residue.
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03-04-2018, 06:33 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Axis 25.4
State: California
Posts: 784
THOR #6582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmihalk
I used clear packing tape on ours when I did the trim reglue. I would think that duct tape would also work, I am always leery of having residue after putting tape on the walls.
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The packing tape, when pulled tight, keeps tension on the seam like a clamp would. Fold over a small tab to ease removal.
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I'm wearing trifocals now but my hindsight is 20/20.
*************
Bilsteins and Sumos front and rear...HUGE! FatMat and Hoodliner...HUGE!
Hellwig sway bars F&R, 235/85 Hankook ATM, alignment...HUGE!!!
Battery watering, 260watts Solar and BigFeets to make life easier.
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03-05-2018, 04:27 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2013 31L
State: Florida
Posts: 2,184
THOR #908
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keep a close eye on that short piece of trim that returns back towards the cab door.
On my passenger side, I discovered that trim looked a bit loose. Turned out that that whole wall had rotted out. You couldn't tell from the skin.....
Turned out to be two problem areas up on the roof that had been leaking. The skin that forms the nose of the cab over was cut short and had almost zero surface area under the corner trim up near the top where it joins the roof
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the roof membrane at that same corner was a bit short and also had a screw under that insert trim that wasn't sealed.
No apparent damage in the cab over or side wall that I could find. i think the water dripped down framework in that exterior non-wood wall in mine and got into the plywood in this little return wall.
I'd suggest
taking that trim off so that you can see the bottom edge of that plywood core
and
I'd suggest taking the upholstered panel that covers that wall on the inside off to have a look at the plywood. (mine was "buttons" on a pillowed vinyl covered wall). Those buttons are nothing more than covered snaps that pry right off to reveal a screw. very easy to remove for a look.
I sincerely hope you don't find what i did.
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03-05-2018, 07:12 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Brand: Still Looking
State: Tennessee
Posts: 297
THOR #7227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blw2
keep a close eye on that short piece of trim that returns back towards the cab door.
On my passenger side, I discovered that trim looked a bit loose. Turned out that that whole wall had rotted out. You couldn't tell from the skin.....
Turned out to be two problem areas up on the roof that had been leaking. The skin that forms the nose of the cab over was cut short and had almost zero surface area under the corner trim up near the top where it joins the roof
and
the roof membrane at that same corner was a bit short and also had a screw under that insert trim that wasn't sealed.
No apparent damage in the cab over or side wall that I could find. i think the water dripped down framework in that exterior non-wood wall in mine and got into the plywood in this little return wall.
I'd suggest
taking that trim off so that you can see the bottom edge of that plywood core
and
I'd suggest taking the upholstered panel that covers that wall on the inside off to have a look at the plywood. (mine was "buttons" on a pillowed vinyl covered wall). Those buttons are nothing more than covered snaps that pry right off to reveal a screw. very easy to remove for a look.
I sincerely hope you don't find what i did.
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Thanks for the info. I will be sure and take a look before I seal it up. One thing I have done that I hope help with these sort of things is RV gutter. I basically have water running off the sides only at the corners of the rig which I try to keep a class eye on. I am considering running gutter across front and back to prohibit water intrusion as much as possible. Thanks for the heads up making repairs next weekend then opening 2018 camping season the next weekend. Happy camping.
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