Another leaky tail light victim...

[DogLovers]

Originally Posted by taylorbob1

Yes, but...
$80 each at Command vs $80 for a 2pk “knock-off” on Amazon??

I’ll spend my $80 saved on eighty $1 items at Dollar Tree

Cautionary on buying junk off Amazon. If they don’t provide all the info you need to make an educated decision don’t buy. If you can’t see where it’s made, it’s made in China. There is a plethora of knock off cheap shoddy junk being sold on Amazon and they don’t care. As long as Amazon gets a profit off the vendor they are perfectly ok with looking the other way. READ ALL the vendors policies regarding returns and refunds. Some won’t take anything back even if they ship the wrong item.

[vegas25.5]

I would generally agree with quality control issues regarding knock-off brand, Amazon exclusive item(s). I rolled the dice on PartSam item and will say it far superior in quality anf design over thr Command Electronics product used on my 2019 Vegas. A good company would offer full warranty exchange on a faulty design product that had caused many and many RV owners money, time and grief. I can't think of a worse issue with a RV - water damage. We have had to replace a dual diode led marker light that began failing which also came on our Vegas carrying the brand Command Electronics.

Here is my deal. Any time I can do work on my Thor product, I know that it is being done right and done to last. I have more faith in my cutting and splicing wires than another Command Electronics product with a wire harness. My wire splicing will not fail.

My Thor Vegas was assembled in the USA. Some of the worst quality anf quality control I have ever experienced. I love it and understand we purchased a lower end motorhome but some of the quality control stuff is simply installers, Thor employees and fabricators don't care.

On a side note I have had ZERO issues ever returning a product to Amazon. Some of the most lenient return policies ever. Anf if you are worried about a warranty, contact Command Electronics and tell them you want your $/*!y OEM incandescent lights replaced with non-leaking LEDs and see how that goes.

[AxialFlux]

The Partsam units are made far better than the stock ones for sure, with the unit completely sealed including where the wiring goes in.

[Wiley1]

Today I noticed that one of my brake lights is out. When I took apart the red lens cover, I found water and black smooge inside. The whole cavity behind the light assembly is wet.

Instead of ordering a couple of new P27//7W lamps, I've decided to replace both taillight assemblies with LEDs. $83 for the pair on Amazon, arriving Friday. They will use less power and probably outlive me. In the bargain, I'll get new hardware and new gaskets to help seal the water out. I don't mind twisting a few wire-nuts to make the connections.

This is an updated version of the Partsam product, first available on Amazon in July 2021. It appears to be a surface-mount, so I might choose to put some Styrofoam in the cavity and seal it tight with silicone bathtub caulk.

Has anybody used this product?
I may need to splice in three (on each unit) resistors to limit the current. Does anybody know what ohm and wattage value resistor will work?

[txc2936@yahoo.com]

Check your backup camera lights on top, if you have water in your rear lights, there is probably water up there also. I took apart, installed a new set of LED light strip from Walmart, re sealed and screwed in. This was on a new unit. I got it all early before wood rot.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Wiley1

Today I noticed that one of my brake lights is out. When I took apart the red lens cover, I found water and black smooge inside. The whole cavity behind the light assembly is wet.

Instead of ordering a couple of new P27//7W lamps, I've decided to replace both taillight assemblies with LEDs. $83 for the pair on Amazon, arriving Friday. They will use less power and probably outlive me. In the bargain, I'll get new hardware and new gaskets to help seal the water out. I don't mind twisting a few wire-nuts to make the connections.

This is an updated version of the Partsam product, first available on Amazon in July 2021. It appears to be a surface-mount, so I might choose to put some Styrofoam in the cavity and seal it tight with silicone bathtub caulk.

Has anybody used this product?
I may need to splice in three (on each unit) resistors to limit the current. Does anybody know what ohm and wattage value resistor will work?

Your replacement light assembly should not need any external resistors.

Yes, bare LEDs may need current limiting resistors to limit their current draw but that's not what you are buying.

Also, some LED replacement bulbs draw too little current and require a resistor in parallel for CAN bus systems that detect burnt out light bulbs that detect and warn you about burnt out light bulbs, but again, that's not what you ordered.

Your tail light assembly should just be a wire in replacement.

[twovillagers]

Originally Posted by Wiley1

Today I noticed that one of my brake lights is out. When I took apart the red lens cover, I found water and black smooge inside. The whole cavity behind the light assembly is wet.

Instead of ordering a couple of new P27//7W lamps, I've decided to replace both taillight assemblies with LEDs. $83 for the pair on Amazon, arriving Friday. They will use less power and probably outlive me. In the bargain, I'll get new hardware and new gaskets to help seal the water out. I don't mind twisting a few wire-nuts to make the connections.

This is an updated version of the Partsam product, first available on Amazon in July 2021. It appears to be a surface-mount, so I might choose to put some Styrofoam in the cavity and seal it tight with silicone bathtub caulk.

Has anybody used this product?
I may need to splice in three (on each unit) resistors to limit the current. Does anybody know what ohm and wattage value resistor will work?

I installed Partsam LED tail lights in March, 2021, mostly because of the water issues posted by others on this forum. No resistors needed. I connected the wires with crimp connectors, installed with new stainless steel screws and sealed the top and sides with clear silicone caulk. Occasionally, I still see a few droplets of water under the lenses, but it dries out quickly.

In my case, I had very little water intrusion, but I used spray Flexseal in the inside cavities.

Good luck! The lights should last a long time and I hope you outlive them!

[Sappy2]

Once it dries out (place ridex in there when closed and of course, open it facing sun for several days), you can get some fiberglass resin and soak that into the wood. I would follow up with a bit of cloth over the wood as well just to gain a bit more rigid repair of the weakened wood. That is the best you can do outside of rip the walls down.

[Wiley1]

Originally Posted by Sappy2

Once it dries out (place ridex in there when closed and of course, open it facing sun for several days), you can get some fiberglass resin and soak that into the wood. I would follow up with a bit of cloth over the wood as well just to gain a bit more rigid repair of the weakened wood.

What is ridex?

My old taillights needed a 1" cavity, but my new taillights are surface mount.
I'm thinking about filling the entire cavity with Styrofoam. if the gaskets seal properly, no new water should be introduced. But, just in case, maybe I should not seal the bottom part? If water does someday get in there, maybe it should have a way out by gravity.

[Wiley1]

Originally Posted by twovillagers

I installed Partsam LED tail lights in March, 2021, mostly because of the water issues posted by others on this forum. No resistors needed.

I mention resistors only because this appeared in the Amazon listing:
"NOTE: If upgrading form halogen bulbs to led, you may need resistors to splice in or you'll have hyper flash on your turn signal."

I'll test everything before sealing it up. Hopefully, my experience will be the same as yours and no resistors will be needed.

[TheLaplantes]

Originally Posted by taylorbob1

I had a similar issue & just ordered these from Amazon, they arrive today.
I’m being proactive & don’t have the damage you do
Hopefully after your cavity dries out you can modify the area to accept 4 screws.

Hey Bob Taylor-would you be able to offer some insight on changing the tail lights? We bought the same tail lights you posted for our axis but am confused at the color wiring and which is which?
Thanks so much!

[taylorbob1]

Originally Posted by TheLaplantes

Hey Bob Taylor-would you be able to offer some insight on changing the tail lights? We bought the same tail lights you posted for our axis but am confused at the color wiring and which is which?
Thanks so much!

The wiring instructions are on the Amazon website:

https://smile.amazon.com/Partsam-Rec...7-93deae8f9840

[taylorbob1]

Yes, the wires don’t match up.
Suggest you use a 12v test light and have another person at the wheel so you can try all the options

[ramonher]

How did the installation go? I ordered the same light but can't get them to light up.

[Flyinhgh]

I bought the Partsam led tail lights to replace mine on my 2015 Axis 24.1. I confused on the wiring since the new lights don't really seems to have a actual diagram. I tried testing different combinations and still am confused. if someone can post a actual list of what goes where it would be very helpful.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Flyinhgh

I bought the Partsam led tail lights to replace mine on my 2015 Axis 24.1. I confused on the wiring since the new lights don't really seems to have a actual diagram. I tried testing different combinations and still am confused. if someone can post a actual list of what goes where it would be very helpful.

Did you see Post #72 above?



The wiring for the lights is straight forward - realize they treat the outside red lights as two separate lights with their own POSITIVE connections.
So you have to wire both brown and black to the parking light wire from the MH; and both yellow and green to the turn/brake light wired from the MH. All that's left is the ground and the backup light wires.

[Flyinhgh]

I did I'm looking for more detail. Maybe a picture of it all wired together from RV to light. I've seen some but nothing really detailed. I have to do some testing but when I finish I will take a picture of how each wire connects to the RV.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Flyinhgh

I did I'm looking for more detail. Maybe a picture of it all wired together from RV to light. I've seen some but nothing really detailed. I have to do some testing but when I finish I will take a picture of how each wire connects to the RV.

So you want a customized schematic/wiring diagram for your Thor MH to an aftermarket taillight? Who should make that for you? Thor? Partsam?

[Wiley1]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Your replacement light assembly should not need any external resistors.
Yes, bare LEDs may need current limiting resistors to limit their current draw but that's not what you are buying.
Also, some LED replacement bulbs draw too little current and require a resistor in parallel for CAN bus systems that detect burnt out light bulbs that detect and warn you about burnt out light bulbs, but again, that's not what you ordered.
Your tail light assembly should just be a wire in replacement.

Today my motorhome went through Virginia state inspection for the first time since I installed the new tail-lights. All lights work at night. Both turn signals work in the daytime. But, when the lights are on, only the left turn signal works. So, I'm displaying a nice new REJECT sticker.

Either I didn't test thoroughly enough after I installed the new lights or my right unit has failed. Tomorrow I'll take it apart and check the connections.

Does anybody have any troubleshooting tips to determine the source of the problem?

[MLP]

This begs the question, why did you not test them before taking it down for the inspection? I hope you took a before you touched it pictures. Then measured which wire sets went to what along with the color and color stripe of each wire, and measured which set of wires were +V and RTN. All this information is in the wiring diagrams provided by THOR. You can register and down load your drawings on the THOR web page.