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Old 12-22-2019, 03:09 PM   #21
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THOR #1765
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Originally Posted by Golfbum18 View Post
I know that wheel has to be cleared to spin or whatever it does. WOod chips....who would have thought. Guy told me I can eliminate the sail switch since it does ignite for a few seconds. It wouldn't at all if the switch was bad. I use th efurnace so seldom here in FL but still would like to have it working.
Where do you live in Florida? I have a new board that I bought to fix my Atwood furnace. Turned out the old board was bad but unfortunatly it didnít fix the whole issue. Because of poor installation, water had gotten inside the exhaust as well as destroyed the board and I had to replace the whole furnace. Since I could not buy a furnace without a board, and the board was not returnable, I now have two boards. I would be willing to send it to you so you could try it out and see if it solved your problem, and you could pay me for it or send it back, if it did not.

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Old 12-22-2019, 03:12 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by 99dart View Post
I had the same issue on our ws31. Have you tried drying yours out? I dried ours and it worked fine again. After returning home I ran silicone to seal the cover. It has been running great since then.
Haven't tried that but it's free so I will. Once it gets fixed, I'm doing the silicone around the cover or weatherstripping, which might be easier to work with if I have to remove the panel next time.Thanks the tip.
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Old 12-22-2019, 03:19 PM   #23
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Haven't tried that but it's free so I will. Once it gets fixed, I'm doing the silicone around the cover or weatherstripping, which might be easier to work with if I have to remove the panel next time.Thanks the tip.
My issue was that Thor put weatherstripping around the inside of the panel except for the right hand lower corner of the panel. So the water ran down the crease between the cover and the side of the coach, through the hole at the bottom into the furnace compartment where Thor had installed the board on the floor. I put in weatherstripping, silicone and installed the board 6Ē off the floor after covering the top of it in plastic. I have not had any problems since.
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Old 12-22-2019, 03:39 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by bkterbush View Post
Hey Awesome Forum Members,

I have a Thor Freedom Elite 26 HE with an Atwood Furnace AFMD 30141 model.

Recently it has not been working on a consistent basis. On occasion, it will turn on the blower, the blower will run, there is no ignition sound or attempt to ignite, and then it will shut off, and stay off. The blower will run for a couple of minutes when it makes the attempt when prompted by the thermostat.

All other propane items in the motorhome are working well...water heater and stove.

I go outside, take off the panel, move some wires around, and switch the reset switch off and on a random number of times, and it will eventually light.

Started about 2 weeks ago. The time between when it is working and when I have to go and mess with the switch has become increasingly brief. This morning it ran once, I did my magic (?), and it didn't run again.

I'm pretty sure I have my model number correct. My Atwood book says:

Literature Number 31973
hydro flame
Furnace Models
Series AFS
Series AFM
Series AFL

Like I said, I think mine is a Model # 30141. Though it is under the two year window for warranty, nobody will work on it within the next month. I'm going to attempt this myself. Any help in regards to part #'s and stuff would be awesome.

I've come up with changing the control board and the sail switch (whatever that is, but many say I should do this when I do the control board.)

The part that I keep coming to on Amazon is an Atwood 31505 circuit board and the sail switch is Atwood 36680.

Help,

Brian
Had to replace the circuit board, then had the same problem again. Found water getting in from the Refrigerator hatch above the furnace. Used foam rubber along bottom edge of refrig. hatch. Dried off circuit board with hair dryer. Before putting circuit board back in, placed some plastic shims on corners of circuit board to keep if off the metal tray. Then, I placed the circuit board in a plastic sleeve before putting it back in. Have not had any problems since doing this. BTW, you may have to replace the circuit board now.
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Old 12-22-2019, 03:54 PM   #25
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I'm having the same issue but mine will run fan, ignite for about 3 secs and off....fan still running...it does this 3 times and shuts down completely. I have been told by some very helpful folks that it needs a Dinosor Fan 50 board. Another gent said he tried that and failed. There is no return on the board if it doesn't work so I'm thinking. The link on this thread doesen't work for me. I'd like to see just how tough it will be changing out the board myself. I'd like to see that link.
I had the exact same behavior a couple of years ago. With some careful listening, it sounded like one of the solenoids in the gas valve was chattering. I bought a replacement gas valve and installed it in about an hour. Problem gone.

I had had the water on the board problem the year before, but this problem wasnít due to board issues as we we high and dry when the gas cutoff problem occurred.
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Old 12-22-2019, 04:09 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Golfbum18 View Post
I'm having the same issue but mine will run fan, ignite for about 3 secs and off....fan still running...it does this 3 times and shuts down completely. I have been told by some very helpful folks that it needs a Dinosor Fan 50 board. Another gent said he tried that and failed. There is no return on the board if it doesn't work so I'm thinking. The link on this thread doesen't work for me. I'd like to see just how tough it will be changing out the board myself. I'd like to see that link.
My ACE had a door with the upside down louvers and my board was constantly getting wet. I ginned up a cover made from louvered vents I bought at Lowes and it did help but the board still got wet on heavy rain days.

Finally, over the Thanksgiving weekend the relay on the board stopped functioning so nothing worked, not even the fan. I replaced the board with the Dinosaur Fan 50 Plus board and verified the furnace worked and lit but it was warm then so I shut it off.

Next time I tried to use it mine did what you are describing - it's a flame sense issue - the board does not see the furnace lit so it shuts the propane valve, continues running the fan to clear fumes, and tries again. It does this for 3 cycles before it locks out. The Dinosaur board will wait and hour and try again but the OEM Atwood board stays locked out until you reset it.

Since I never had a flame sense issue before and the board had a diagnostic LED I contacted Dinosaur via their onsite form asking about the LED behavior since it wasn't documented on their website. I am disappointed to say I never got a response.

In the meantime I was researching the igniter/flame sense part replacement and found where some had cleaned the igniter probes and flame screen to solve the problem so I pulled mine out (much easier than I feared), sanded the probes and flame screen AND sanded the contact areas where the igniter is bolted to the assembly to make sure it got a good ground. Reassembled and installed and my problem was cured.

Atwood has a kit to relocate the circuit board for these troublesome furnaces so the water does not collect on them (they would still get wet). To get the bracket to do this you have to also buy the circuit board. This is what it looks like installed:



The board gets mounted upside down and at an angle:




Since the Dinosaur board comes with standoffs installed I did the same thing but without the bracket and just used stainless screws to mount the board to the plastic plate. The switch is moved as well and for now my switch is just ziptied in place.

I also mounted a stainless louver over the louvered vent area:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$8 and it just covers it top to bottom.

So far so good.
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Old 12-22-2019, 04:49 PM   #27
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Make sure you turn off the power.
One short and the board is junk.
If you are in doubt about the dinosaur board just pay the extra and get the original factory board.
Sail switch can do what you say also..
Dinosaur board would not work in my suburban furnace.
Just remember sometimes penny wise, dollar foolish.
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Old 12-22-2019, 06:27 PM   #28
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There is an electronic board spray that is used to seal moisture out of the boards.
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Old 12-22-2019, 08:59 PM   #29
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Moisture

I'm convinced my original problem was dampness. I opened up the furnace cover to look things over after all the advice above. I was convinced I needed to change the board, but mine worked after I took it out, dried it with the blower year, and reinstalled it. No issues since. Keeping my fingers crossed. But, it was crazy easy to take the board out and reinstall. I can't vouch for the Dinosaur or its install, but that is what I'm buying if my starts acting up. The Amazon link provided for the dinosaur board worked when I copied and pasted it into Google Chrome.
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Old 12-24-2019, 12:24 AM   #30
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Hate to sound dumb but after removing all the screws and the exhaust port I still canít get the cover off?? Is there a trick or do I just pile off the cover?
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Old 12-24-2019, 12:45 AM   #31
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Itís probably siliconed in there. Take a small screwdriver or putty knife and work your way around the cover to break the seal. Then it should carefully pry out - taking care not to bend or scratch the cover.
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Old 12-24-2019, 05:58 PM   #32
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Think I found my problem
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Old 12-24-2019, 06:00 PM   #33
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Tried the hair dryer, no dice...where to find a circuit board in Clinton MS on Christmas Eve???
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Old 12-24-2019, 06:36 PM   #34
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We had troubles with the heater, first they sent a replacement cover plate (first picture) without any louvers...to replace the original with louvers Second picture). Later, they replaced the heater due to bad design and covered by Extended Warranty.
http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1577212541 http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1577212541
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Old 12-24-2019, 10:44 PM   #35
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Amazon is faster than anyone, but you'll be cold for a few days.
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Old 12-25-2019, 01:33 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Jusjay View Post
Think I found my problem
Get some rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush and clean the corrosion off both sides of the board. As long as the relay isn't so corroded it won't move, once the board is dried it "should" work. Otherwise order the Dinosaur Fan 50 Plus Pins from Amazon prime.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 12-28-2019, 06:28 PM   #37
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I also have a 40131 in a freedom elite but nothing happens when I turn the heat on. The diagnostics light indicates air flow / limit fault. I cannot find anything on it. The system fan does not turn on to do the initial purge therefore nothing from the system. Any ideas
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Old 12-28-2019, 07:09 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by 99dart View Post
I had the same issue on our ws31. Have you tried drying yours out? I dried ours and it worked fine again. After returning home I ran silicone to seal the cover. It has been running great since then.
Thanks....it worked after the hair dryer....nice Christmas present.Seems like there might be a chance to add a panel to the INSIDE of the panel we remove to see the burner etc. COvering the middle louvers should still keep enough air to circulate inside while keeping out any rain that might sneak in through the louvers. The board sits up high enough that there shouldn't be any water collecting to the underside of the board part. Any thoughts anyone?
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Old 12-29-2019, 04:30 AM   #39
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I also have a 40131 in a freedom elite but nothing happens when I turn the heat on. The diagnostics light indicates air flow / limit fault. I cannot find anything on it. The system fan does not turn on to do the initial purge therefore nothing from the system. Any ideas
Did you read the thread?

Since you have a lit diagnostic LED I'd say you have 12 VDC to the board, If the fan relay is corroded then when the thermostat calls for heat the relay won't move and you won't get the fan running. You can verify it is not a fan problem by jumping the two wires going to the circuit board; one is marked "blo" and the other one is marked "pwr". If the fan runs you can bet you have a circuit board problem.
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Old 12-29-2019, 02:47 PM   #40
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Where do you live in Florida? I have a new board that I bought to fix my Atwood furnace. Turned out the old board was bad but unfortunatly it didnít fix the whole issue. Because of poor installation, water had gotten inside the exhaust as well as destroyed the board and I had to replace the whole furnace. Since I could not buy a furnace without a board, and the board was not returnable, I now have two boards. I would be willing to send it to you so you could try it out and see if it solved your problem, and you could pay me for it or send it back, if it did not.
Sorry I didn't see this sooner to reply and thanks for the offer. Fortunately, drying the board with a hair dryer solved the problem.
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