Quote:
Originally Posted by EA37TS
For those who don’t like auto level, how would you make it better? How much more would you be willing to pay for the ideal system.
Keep in mind that combination air/hydraulic systems are already available on some diesel pushers.
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CAUTION... potentially boring layman's leveling thesis follows - proceed with caution:
It would be a fun project (for me at least
) to delve into the algorithm used by auto leveling hydraulic jack systems. The truth would come out when studying their "if then" flowcharts.
Honestly, it SHOULD be the same algorithm (logical sequence) when manual leveling. My theory is the problems start when leveling jacks are initially extended to ground contact - the stabilization point. Automatic leveling systems might be pre-programmed to extend a pre-set distance to achieve solid stabilization BEFORE beginning the auto-level sequence. BUT - that's a "one size fits all" assumption which likely results in jacks being extended MUCH further than necessary.
My Big Foot levelers lack the automatic feature. But the system does utilize a "start" function - pushing the "start" button on the control panel initiates a sequence to achieve stabilization as follows:
First, the two front jacks are extended what appears to be a pre-set distance (that "one size fits all" described above). It's obviously enough to contact the ground, but it also slightly lifts the chassis. Then the two rear jacks repeat the same scenario - again slightly lifting the chassis. After this sequence finishes (maybe 20 seconds) the motorhome is definitely rock solid stabilized... but NOT necessarily level.
Someone with an auto level system might chime in here... if you pay close attention to your automatic system - does it begin with a sequence similar to the "start sequence" I described above? If so, how far does each jack continue extending IMMEDIATELY AFTER solid ground contact? Is the frame lifted by any of the jacks beyond what is necessary for stabilization?
If the jacks are initially extended beyond what is necessary for stabilization, I believe that is the source of the setup for "wheel lift failure". The frame was already lifted beyond what was necessary for stabilization... so the leveling sequence "starting point" was already too high - a setup for failure.
This is exactly why I NO LONGER use the "start" function. Sure... it takes a couple minutes more time, but the results are much more predictable.
I begin by extending each jack JUST to solid ground contact... nothing more. Then I determine which corner/end of the motorhome is lowest and begin extending those jacks. The jacks at the highest corner/end only need solid contact for stabilization purposes... nothing more.
This whole manual procedure gives me the best leveling outcome without excessive jack extension. If a wheel is off the ground, I'm likely sitting on a VERY unlevel spot - but at least over-extension of the jacks isn't the root cause of the much dreaded "wheel lift".
I'm NOT a trained OR qualified engineer, but I have a theory WHY leveling systems are designed this way. In order to mimic a "just to ground contact" scenario for each jack foot would require engineering either a pressure sensor or a measuring device (laser?) to determine the precise initial jack extension for stabilization. This would obviously require more hardware AND calibration... AND a potential failure point. Since we're not dealing with a lunar lander, I'm assuming manufacturers used a "good enough" approach - the "one size fits all".
Anyway... Happy leveling!