Auto Levelers

[EA37TS]

I use Auto 98 percent of the time and have never experienced the situations some are reporting. While the rig is leveling ( via iPhone app) I am outside connecting power, water and sewer.

Knowing how to assess the campsite and position the motor home is the most important aspect of leveling. That and that alone will determine how hard the leveling system has to work to get the rig level.

[Jimbo56]

After 40 years, I know how to assess a site. My system sends all 4 jacks down first. When trying to raise the front, with the back jacks on the ground, the rear end can’t squat as the front end comes up. The result is the front raises too high and it ends up off the ground. I’ve walked down a row of motor coaches at Creekfire which has crowned sites, front to back. Every other coach had front wheels off the ground.

[lwmcguir]

Since this thread is still alive here goes again

Most sites are longer than average that we choose when traveling if they are available

Staying longer, we prefer more room so larger sites again

Mostly 40-45 foot neighbors

Vast majority manual level and keep the coaches close to the ground

Anyone experienced at manual leveling is finished well before any auto will be

Only owned three so the basis is watching neighbors set up

The real key has been noted:

Calibrate on level concrete to your desired outcome, low as possible, if planning on using Auto

If you're on gravel then use manual to tweak after you settle

Bottom line is go camping even if you don't level

[EA37TS]

For those who don’t like auto level, how would you make it better? How much more would you be willing to pay for the ideal system.

Keep in mind that combination air/hydraulic systems are already available on some diesel pushers.

[lwmcguir]

Originally Posted by EA37TS

For those who don’t like auto level, how would you make it better? How much more would you be willing to pay for the ideal system.

Keep in mind that combination air/hydraulic systems are already available on some diesel pushers.

Great question

I have calibrated the current Ultra Level twice to try and get it to settle out closer to the ground

Best I can do is 2 inches above manual level which for a site that is relatively level is fine. Perhaps a more sensitive interface that could find the level within an inch would make many use Auto which is a very nice feature

Not having to use a booster step for DW at the door is a plus and thus why normally using manual level and the 2 inches is in her favor

We tend to settle on any non paved lot so having to adjust after a day or two is normal and of course using manual at that point no matter the initial level

I use the 1/2 bath door as the perfect level and is is close to the bubble in the console

The combo or air level is typically constantly on using a small compressor and used to be on the higher end coaches

If camping on a level site I don't even use the hydraulic rams, just sit it down by deflating the bags and it works fine with little motion

Heading West on I70 Friday and hoping the winds stay down. Lots of blow overs lately and 60 mph gust again today, this time from the South

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by EA37TS

For those who don’t like auto level, how would you make it better? How much more would you be willing to pay for the ideal system.

Keep in mind that combination air/hydraulic systems are already available on some diesel pushers.

CAUTION... potentially boring layman's leveling thesis follows - proceed with caution:

It would be a fun project (for me at least ) to delve into the algorithm used by auto leveling hydraulic jack systems. The truth would come out when studying their "if then" flowcharts.

Honestly, it SHOULD be the same algorithm (logical sequence) when manual leveling. My theory is the problems start when leveling jacks are initially extended to ground contact - the stabilization point. Automatic leveling systems might be pre-programmed to extend a pre-set distance to achieve solid stabilization BEFORE beginning the auto-level sequence. BUT - that's a "one size fits all" assumption which likely results in jacks being extended MUCH further than necessary.

My Big Foot levelers lack the automatic feature. But the system does utilize a "start" function - pushing the "start" button on the control panel initiates a sequence to achieve stabilization as follows:

First, the two front jacks are extended what appears to be a pre-set distance (that "one size fits all" described above). It's obviously enough to contact the ground, but it also slightly lifts the chassis. Then the two rear jacks repeat the same scenario - again slightly lifting the chassis. After this sequence finishes (maybe 20 seconds) the motorhome is definitely rock solid stabilized... but NOT necessarily level.

Someone with an auto level system might chime in here... if you pay close attention to your automatic system - does it begin with a sequence similar to the "start sequence" I described above? If so, how far does each jack continue extending IMMEDIATELY AFTER solid ground contact? Is the frame lifted by any of the jacks beyond what is necessary for stabilization?

If the jacks are initially extended beyond what is necessary for stabilization, I believe that is the source of the setup for "wheel lift failure". The frame was already lifted beyond what was necessary for stabilization... so the leveling sequence "starting point" was already too high - a setup for failure.

This is exactly why I NO LONGER use the "start" function. Sure... it takes a couple minutes more time, but the results are much more predictable.

I begin by extending each jack JUST to solid ground contact... nothing more. Then I determine which corner/end of the motorhome is lowest and begin extending those jacks. The jacks at the highest corner/end only need solid contact for stabilization purposes... nothing more.

This whole manual procedure gives me the best leveling outcome without excessive jack extension. If a wheel is off the ground, I'm likely sitting on a VERY unlevel spot - but at least over-extension of the jacks isn't the root cause of the much dreaded "wheel lift".

I'm NOT a trained OR qualified engineer, but I have a theory WHY leveling systems are designed this way. In order to mimic a "just to ground contact" scenario for each jack foot would require engineering either a pressure sensor or a measuring device (laser?) to determine the precise initial jack extension for stabilization. This would obviously require more hardware AND calibration... AND a potential failure point. Since we're not dealing with a lunar lander, I'm assuming manufacturers used a "good enough" approach - the "one size fits all".

Anyway... Happy leveling!

[EA37TS]

On my rig (EQ Smart Level) the rear jacks are lowered to contact only, then the fronts are lowered to contact. There is a pause for analyzing then the auto level kicks in. The leveling operation is smooth with no jerking like the old level up system on the Challenger.

Since I don’t have an air dump, I will first use the rear jacks to raise the chassis to remove the air from the air bags. This reduces the rear jack extension during leveling.

[CHS]

Curious. Why is this (and other non related topics) still in the Covid discussion group section???

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by CHS

Curious. Why is this (and other non related topics) still in the Covid discussion group section???

Good catch!

Same reason non-related topics show up in the Admin Announcement zone. I'll clean it up when I have better internet, probably tomorrow evening.

[txc2936@yahoo.com]

Good Video, yes i use the dry lube, and immediately wipe like he says. But i dont do this every trip...