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Old 09-14-2017, 10:47 AM   #81
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one I got. Fit in the cut out perfectly but the outside of the lock is slightly smaller than the original so you do see this as a small space where the decal was cut to fit. Not a problem for me. Jim.

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Old 09-28-2017, 04:13 AM   #82
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THOR #3732
How to tell the difference between new and old

Hoping to not find ourselves with a broken door on our next trip, I ordered the steel replacement door latch from Tricore (I also promised them that any time I go to an RV show, if there are any Tricore parts on an RV, then I'll let the dealer know why I'm not interested)

Anyway, it was a five minute job to replace the door knob, but when I look at them, it's impossible to tell which is the new one and old one. Is there a way to tell the difference?

Andy
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Old 09-28-2017, 04:18 AM   #83
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THOR #8012
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Originally Posted by saerdna View Post
Hoping to not find ourselves with a broken door on our next trip, I ordered the steel replacement door latch from Tricore (I also promised them that any time I go to an RV show, if there are any Tricore parts on an RV, then I'll let the dealer know why I'm not interested)

Anyway, it was a five minute job to replace the door knob, but when I look at them, it's impossible to tell which is the new one and old one. Is there a way to tell the difference?

Andy
see post 59 in this thread. The steel one should have that number stamped on the outside half of the lock. Trimark told me only the outside needed to be changed.
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Old 09-28-2017, 04:37 AM   #84
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THOR #3732
Interesting. In my case, both the new and the old outside components have a number stamped on them. Perhaps I replaced a previously replaced lock (having bought our RV labour 6 months used).

Thanks,
Andy
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Old 09-28-2017, 11:48 AM   #85
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Originally Posted by saerdna View Post
Interesting. In my case, both the new and the old outside components have a number stamped on them. Perhaps I replaced a previously replaced lock (having bought our RV labour 6 months used).

Thanks,
Andy
They will all have a number, the reason I pointed you to post 59 it shows you the part number of the steel bolt. If it's a steel bolt model, the outside half will have 37560-25k on it.
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Old 09-28-2017, 01:02 PM   #86
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THOR #5545
Axis door lock

If it has a steel striker a magnet will stick to it.. The zinc alloy one is not magnetic.
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Old 10-29-2017, 12:26 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by petew View Post
More time on the phone today.
After being blown off by Thor I started to do the slow burn which resulted in my doing a little research.

It is not the NTSB that looks into these things but rather the NHTSH, The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration.
I called them and explained the problem and they said that they would be happy to entertain a complaint .
It meets their criteria as a safety hazard but they cannot take the complaint from me because my latch did not break.

So if one of you folks that has experienced being trapped inside or outside of your coach wants to make a complaint they will take it and investigate it.

I would urge someone to do this , it may save a life.

NHTSH phone # is 888-327-4236 , any of the representatives can take your complaint.
Thanks petew - I just filed a complaint online with the NHTSA also. Now I need to decide if I replace with a Bauer or find a good keyless unit for my Challenger 37TB. Appreciate yours, and everyone's, input on this topic.
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Old 10-29-2017, 01:11 PM   #88
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Axis vegis door lock

I also filed complaint a couple months ago. My concern was rep I spoke with filed complaint against thor. Tried to tell them these Tri mark locks are in many other rv,s made by many Mfg. Since I had the experienced locked end the rv I put new steel stricker plunger lock in but went one step further. I cut a one inch piece of the inside door frame away at the striker location which allows me to push striker open with a screwdriver. Cut out frame not noticeable. May be over kill but will not get trapped inside. I also had serious problem with power transfer switch in my 24.1 that I'll post soon.
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Old 10-29-2017, 03:00 PM   #89
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THOR #8012
I've been trying to establish for us Thor owners would version of the lock has been failing.

Here are the two types they routinely use.

Jbird, can you confirm which version of the lock your challenger has?

My belief is that most, if not all, failures have been the top picture below. This is also the lock that Trimark offers a steel plunger for. They do not offer a steel plunger for the bottom lock (white inside and different handle on inside) and claim this type does not have the failure problem.




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Old 10-29-2017, 03:43 PM   #90
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Originally Posted by tnedator View Post
I've been trying to establish for us Thor owners would version of the lock has been failing.

Here are the two types they routinely use.

Jbird, can you confirm which version of the lock your challenger has?

My belief is that most, if not all, failures have been the top picture below. This is also the lock that Trimark offers a steel plunger for. They do not offer a steel plunger for the bottom lock (white inside and different handle on inside) and claim this type does not have the failure problem.




Tnedator - Thanks for the note. Ours is the top picture.
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Old 10-30-2017, 10:40 AM   #91
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It was the top one that broke in ours. Jim.
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Old 10-30-2017, 01:49 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pwstick View Post
...snip... Since I had the experienced locked end the rv I put new steel stricker plunger lock in but went one step further. I cut a one inch piece of the inside door frame away at the striker location which allows me to push striker open with a screwdriver. Cut out frame not noticeable. May be over kill but will not get trapped inside. I also had serious problem with power transfer switch in my 24.1 that I'll post soon.
Could you post a photo of your "modification"? I'm not clear on what you removed and how you operate the latch. To be cute, I envision a small box with a sign, "IN CASE OF LOCK-IN, - BREAK GLASS" to get to the screwdriver.

Seriously though, Thor needs to do the right thing and pressure Trimark to replace these nightmares.
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Old 10-30-2017, 08:03 PM   #93
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THOR #5545
Axis door lock

Hopefully photos will help. It works very easy with screwdriver to open. The striker plate mounted to door frame is a double thickness, it helps to cut out one thickness of back of striker plate n one inch slot in door frame.
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Old 11-01-2017, 03:12 PM   #94
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Originally Posted by Pwstick View Post
Hopefully photos will help. It works very easy with screwdriver to open. The striker plate mounted to door frame is a double thickness, it helps to cut out one thickness of back of striker plate n one inch slot in door frame.
Thanks Pwstick, now I get it! _ _ _ Hey Thor, is anyone reading this?? !!!
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Bilsteins and Sumos front and rear...HUGE! FatMat and Hoodliner...HUGE!
Hellwig sway bars F&R, 235/85 Hankook ATM, alignment...HUGE!!!
Battery watering, 260watts Solar and BigFeets to make life easier.
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Old 11-01-2017, 03:55 PM   #95
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I do have the lock with the white inside handle I'm not sure this is susceptible to the same lockout breakage but I was wondering your thoughts on this instead of notching the frame door do you think since you've already went through this somebody drilled a hole through the frame instead of notching it and put your screwdriver through the hole to unlock the door? Thank you. ** the only question now is who will be the Unlucky one that has to sue Thor and Trimark when something deadly happens in their motorhome with all of these problems listed here you would think they would have a great case unbelievable there's not a recall.
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Old 11-01-2017, 04:06 PM   #96
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Originally Posted by revjeffrey View Post
I do have the lock with the white inside handle I'm not sure this is susceptible to the same lockout breakage but I was wondering your thoughts on this instead of notching the frame door do you think since you've already went through this somebody drilled a hole through the frame instead of notching it and put your screwdriver through the hole to unlock the door? Thank you. ** the only question now is who will be the Unlucky one that has to sue Thor and Trimark when something deadly happens in their motorhome with all of these problems listed here you would think they would have a great case unbelievable there's not a recall.
When I spoke with Thor on the phone about the lock issue I mentioned the scenario of a fire during the night. Their (customer rep)reply was that they provide an emergency exit at the rear of the coach.
I asked what about people that may be sleeping up front , she said there was an emergency exit in the back...

They don't care
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Old 11-01-2017, 04:12 PM   #97
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WOW !!! Send that Response to the NHTSA....
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Old 11-01-2017, 04:46 PM   #98
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Except that the rear emergency exit is for when the coach has rolled over on the door side so it isn't usable. Not for when a manufacturing defect prevents you from using the door normally.
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Old 11-01-2017, 07:36 PM   #99
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THOR #8054
Quote:
Originally Posted by petew View Post
When I spoke with Thor on the phone about the lock issue I mentioned the scenario of a fire during the night. Their (customer rep)reply was that they provide an emergency exit at the rear of the coach.

I asked what about people that may be sleeping up front , she said there was an emergency exit in the back...



They don't care


Iím surprised they didnít just tell you to have a front and rear Saws-All installed in case of one of those emergencies. I wonder if any of them use the products that they build?
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Old 11-01-2017, 07:42 PM   #100
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So the real situation is: you've been hit from behind by a big truck rendering the emergency exit in the rear unusable. You can smell the gas leaking from the fuel tank. You go to leave by the door and the lock has snapped. The clock is ticking........
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