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Old 09-29-2021, 11:00 AM   #21
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Model: 2015 Vegas 24.1
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Glad you got it fixed.

On my 2015 Vegas 24.1 the radio gets power from BOTH the house batteries and the chassis battery. The main power for the radio comes from the house batteries. The reason for that is so you can listen to the radio while camping without drawing down the chassis battery. You need the USE/STORE in USE while you are driving so that the cameras operate and so that the radio will turn on. You want it in USE whenever you are driving so that the chassis alternator will supply current to the converter and allow charging of the house batteries while you drive.

The chassis battery provides power to the radio for the station pre-selects and the clock in the radio. If they wouldn't wire it that way every time yo put the USE/STORE in STORE you would lose all your radio pre-select stations and the clock would go to 12:00 every time you went to STORE. That function is one of the "parasitic" drains on the chassis battery while in storage.

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Old 09-29-2021, 01:00 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bevedfelker View Post
Glad you got it fixed.

On my 2015 Vegas 24.1 the radio gets power from BOTH the house batteries and the chassis battery. The main power for the radio comes from the house batteries. The reason for that is so you can listen to the radio while camping without drawing down the chassis battery. You need the USE/STORE in USE while you are driving so that the cameras operate and so that the radio will turn on. You want it in USE whenever you are driving so that the chassis alternator will supply current to the converter and allow charging of the house batteries while you drive.

The chassis battery provides power to the radio for the station pre-selects and the clock in the radio. If they wouldn't wire it that way every time yo put the USE/STORE in STORE you would lose all your radio pre-select stations and the clock would go to 12:00 every time you went to STORE. That function is one of the "parasitic" drains on the chassis battery while in storage.
On my ‘17 Vegas, when the Use/Store switch is in the Store position, and then returned to the Use position…
- I must reset my clock and all the station pre-sets

I guess the Thor employee who installed my Axxera had a bad, bad hangover that day or intentionally decided to make his employer look bad
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Old 09-29-2021, 01:46 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bevedfelker View Post
Glad you got it fixed.

On my 2015 Vegas 24.1 the radio gets power from BOTH the house batteries and the chassis battery. The main power for the radio comes from the house batteries. The reason for that is so you can listen to the radio while camping without drawing down the chassis battery. You need the USE/STORE in USE while you are driving so that the cameras operate and so that the radio will turn on. You want it in USE whenever you are driving so that the chassis alternator will supply current to the converter and allow charging of the house batteries while you drive.

The chassis battery provides power to the radio for the station pre-selects and the clock in the radio. If they wouldn't wire it that way every time yo put the USE/STORE in STORE you would lose all your radio pre-select stations and the clock would go to 12:00 every time you went to STORE. That function is one of the "parasitic" drains on the chassis battery while in storage.
1- The converter has nothing to do with charging the house batteries while driving.
2 - The connection between the chassis battery and house battery exists through the BCC/BIRD/BIM regardless of the position of the USE/STORE switch so the alternator will charge the house batteries in the STORE position BUT the radio will not have power.

It needs to be in USE while driving to power the radio/cameras.
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Old 09-29-2021, 09:37 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Dennisemory View Post
I replaced the house batteries and now the Axxera unit will not turn on.
2017 Hurricane 29M. Is this my excuse to replace the unit or did I just not hit a reset button?
Thanks,
can you post a picture of the remote I might have an extra
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Old 10-02-2021, 06:36 PM   #25
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Had the same issue with my 2018 ACE, after replacement of chassis battery the radio was inop. Called Thor and spoke with a technician, he advised me to look for a reset port on the front of the radio. He told me to use a paper clip and push the button in momentarily. The radio came on. It was an easy fix without having to test the dash apart checking fuses.
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Old 10-02-2021, 07:41 PM   #26
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We have a class C Ford E450. The radio in the dash is powered by house battery. Leave battery switch in use position when driving. Plus my alternator will keep my house battery charged when driving when the use position is selected.
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Old 10-02-2021, 08:10 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by z28 View Post
Had the same issue with my 2018 ACE, after replacement of chassis battery the radio was inop. Called Thor and spoke with a technician, he advised me to look for a reset port on the front of the radio. He told me to use a paper clip and push the button in momentarily. The radio came on. It was an easy fix without having to test the dash apart checking fuses.
I had the same issue, and the reset button in the hole in the front panel of the radio fixed it.
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Old 10-03-2021, 04:31 AM   #28
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Similar but maybe not

Last year I had a similar situation, the radio is on a circuit with the refrigerator that runs through the 12 volt system to the converter that changes it to 120v. There's a secondary wire off the battery that I'd left off not allowing the converter to convert. There's also a second fuse in the battery area that may have kicked out.

Hurricane 30 m
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Old 10-03-2021, 01:02 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Dennisemory View Post
I found two radio extraction tools with a picture and was able to pull the radio out of the dash.
I would like to learn more about that process. My rig came with the exact same radio and we may have the same dashboard. Is yours an E350/E450?

When I went to replace my old Axxera, I was unable to find any way to extract the radio without removing the entire dashboard bezel which is one continuous piece all the way over to the driver's door. Removing that thing is a nightmare because you have to first disconnect every connection to every control.

I would love to find a way to pull my radio and make wiring changes WITHOUT fully removing the dashboard bezel. Can you explain how that is possible?
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Old 10-03-2021, 01:47 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Wiley1 View Post
I would like to learn more about that process. My rig came with the exact same radio and we may have the same dashboard. Is yours an E350/E450?

When I went to replace my old Axxera, I was unable to find any way to extract the radio without removing the entire dashboard bezel which is one continuous piece all the way over to the driver's door. Removing that thing is a nightmare because you have to first disconnect every connection to every control.

I would love to find a way to pull my radio and make wiring changes WITHOUT fully removing the dashboard bezel. Can you explain how that is possible?



But on an E-series class C you may still have to remove the dash if you don't have the removable bezel on the radio itself.
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Old 10-04-2021, 02:38 PM   #31
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But on an E-series class C you may still have to remove the dash if you don't have the removable bezel on the radio itself.
Ted:

Thank you for the pictures, but I don't understand them.

My Axxera was mounted with a plastic adapter with 4 tabs. Those tabs are screwed into the dashboard frame with 4 screws. Then the massive dashboard bezel covers up the whole mess.

When I purchased a new Xtrons AV receiver / media player, it mounted nicely in the same 2-DIN adapter frame.

Problem is, I haven't been able to bend and pull enough get space behind the bezel to remove the 4 screws. Yes, I had to pull and reinstall the whole bezel which is a tedious half-day job.

After seeing your pictures, I'm wondering whether there is a different type of adapter that I could get, that would make removal of the unit faster and easier.
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Old 10-04-2021, 04:42 PM   #32
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I have a Ford E-350 class C. You don't have to completely remove the "entire dash". The dash is held in place by small clips.

Start by removing the doghouse and setting it aside.

The pics show "pressure points" where I popped the dash clips loose - same as an audio shop would do if replacing the head unit. There's small clips on the darker brown colored part which slide behind the lip on the lighter tan part of the dash.

I have had my unit out at least three times. See the pics: Start by pulling directly below the radio - it takes a fairly brisk jerk, but it pops loose easily. Then work your way to just right of the steering column - same method. Then over to the left of the steering column, below the dimmer switch.

After you get those parts loose, it should be intuitive as to where else to pop things loose. There is a small connector behind the dimmer switch you will need to remove.

I pulled the dash panel out far enough to "wedge" it with the shifter lever. Once you get it pulled out that far, you will see the four screws holding the radio in - two across the top and two across the bottom.

It takes a little finesse and care - don't drop the screws into the "engine abyss"!! Lay a piece of cardboard under the engine for piece of mind... just in case.

Once you get those four screws out, pull the unit partway out... then reach behind the unit and remove the harness by squeezing the typical plastic "hook/spring" clip holding it.

Yep... it's tight in some places, and you make come away with some scrapes on your hands/arms - but don't let that dash win!

Once you accomplish this learning experience, it's just ONE MORE THING you don't have to rely on a dealer to do - who will charge you dearly!
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Old 10-04-2021, 04:52 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wiley1 View Post
Ted:

Thank you for the pictures, but I don't understand them.

My Axxera was mounted with a plastic adapter with 4 tabs. Those tabs are screwed into the dashboard frame with 4 screws. Then the massive dashboard bezel covers up the whole mess.

When I purchased a new Xtrons AV receiver / media player, it mounted nicely in the same 2-DIN adapter frame.

Problem is, I haven't been able to bend and pull enough get space behind the bezel to remove the 4 screws. Yes, I had to pull and reinstall the whole bezel which is a tedious half-day job.

After seeing your pictures, I'm wondering whether there is a different type of adapter that I could get, that would make removal of the unit faster and easier.
The Axxera AV615BHM in my 2017 Chateau (This is from an old post I found) I took it to a car audio shop and ask if they could do it. I watched, in less than 10 minutes they had the radio out. The answer was not the special tools and the you tube videos. The entire false front of the dash, from the instrument panel to the glove box is snapped on in pieces and is easily removed. The radio was then held in by 4 bolts into the metal structure of the dash. Just like Chateau_Nomad says
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Old 10-05-2021, 06:14 PM   #34
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The entire false front of the dash, from the instrument panel to the glove box is snapped on in pieces and is easily removed. The radio was then held in by 4 bolts into the metal structure of the dash.
I know what is involved because I've done it. I spent the whole time cussing the genius who came up with the stupid idea of making the entire dash cover all one piece.

Yes, the clips are easy to pop. And, with a little practice, you can learn how to pull and flex and wrestle and stretch things in just the right way to disengage the cover from the shift lever. Those issues are relatively simple.

The real problem is disconnecting the array of cables that are attached to the back of the dash cover. To full remove the cover, there are at least 6 different connections that need to be removed including the A/C controls, DC outlets, and Emergency Start button. A perfect example of an engineering failure. I kept wondering if there might be an easier way but there just isn't.
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Old 10-05-2021, 07:23 PM   #35
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I never had to disconnect all that stuff!! It's a 20 minute job getting that radio pulled!! Seriously... there are MUCH more difficult projects when owning an RV.

Sounds like you may be happier just going to an audio shop... they'd be GLAD to take your money and do it for you!
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Old 10-05-2021, 10:18 PM   #36
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I would think if he has had it out, the shorts cuts if any would be obvious? I don't know that I would call it an engineering failure, but maybe a poor design for some intended purposes. The next guy may see as wonderful design to deter theft.

But to the Nomad's point, I too had major doubts about the complication to pull my radio out. I gave up, but recently I paid to have Car Toys install a Wireless Steering Wheel controller module to back of my radio, I got a chance to see the radio out and I was surprised with only the immediate panel had to come off. I asked the installer to show me how. I can now take the radio off in 5 minutes There were 4 secret screws that I never would have thought to look, it was really simple . Once there; I credit the Engineering Design because all of the harnesses / wiring for radio had plenty of room for me to pull radio completely out. When I want a new radio, it will be simple plug and play.
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Old 10-05-2021, 10:21 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad View Post
I never had to disconnect all that stuff!! It's a 20 minute job getting that radio pulled!! Seriously... there are MUCH more difficult projects when owning an RV.

Sounds like you may be happier just going to an audio shop... they'd be GLAD to take your money and do it for you!
Why would I be happier to spend money? My goal is find the easiest method.

There is no possible way you can completely remove the dash bezel without disconnecting "all that stuff!!". All that stuff is attached to the bezel.

If you don't completely remove the bezel, you might get a 4" clearance because that's about the length of the wires. I suppose somebody with little tiny hands and a stubby screwdriver might be able to work through that cramped space.

The only other thing I can imagine is a 2-DIN adapter that doesn't have the four screws holding it to the dash frame. Maybe that radio can be pulled without removing the bezel, using a special tool?

If you have a special technique that works, can you share it?
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Old 10-06-2021, 03:28 AM   #38
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Here's a guy replacing the head unit in an older e-series. Notice where the emergency start switch is... which he had to disconnect. Newer ones are left of the steering column.

Now... he pulled the dash out WAY further than I did... I have fairly large hands, but a gorilla with boxing gloves on could get in there! And notice he didn't remove the vacuum hoses from the AC/heater controls.

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Old 10-06-2021, 04:08 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad View Post
Here's a guy replacing the head unit in an older e-series. Notice where the emergency start switch is... which he had to disconnect. Newer ones are left of the steering column.

Now... he pulled the dash out WAY further than I did... I have fairly large hands, but a gorilla with boxing gloves on could get in there! And notice he didn't remove the vacuum hoses from the AC/heater controls.

https://youtu.be/S5PRt-76h-4
Yeah maybe a Gorilla with just the 8 oz boxing gloves....

Anybody ever say or know why the OP had to press reset button when changing the battery? I don't think power being disconnect should cause that, so if no blown fuse, what the heck happened.
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Old 10-06-2021, 12:53 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad View Post
Here's a guy replacing the head unit in an older e-series. Notice where the emergency start switch is... which he had to disconnect. Newer ones are left of the steering column.
Thank you for posting that video. I wish I had seen it months ago when I first tackled this job.

Mine is a 2017. The differences are few and not really significant. My Emerg Start is on the far left side. No generator controls in the cab, of course. And, I have an extra panel on the far right for a USB and a 1/8 inch plug.

This video actually confirms everything I've been saying. The only thing I did differently was to remove 6 screws to detach the vacuum control module from the cover panel. That allowed me to throw the entire bezel onto the queen bed so I could sit in the drivers seat. This video would have made the job a little faster, but there are still at least 5 electrical connections that must be undone. No way to avoid that. A tedious job no matter how many times you've done it.

Next time I need to get behind the radio, I'll try it the way this guy did and I'll time myself to see how long it takes. But, I can guaran-damn-tee that it will be more than 15 minutes coming off and at least 20 minutes going back together, not counting any work on the radio itself.

I still don't understand the purpose of the "extraction tool" that people keep mentioning.
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