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Old 07-01-2021, 02:58 PM   #1
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Battery and generator Question-Quantum ws31 2016

New batteries installed prior to last trip. 3 100ah 12v Duracell's . After about 6 weeks of not running the RV after last trip and shutting off all the house power The voltage was down to below 11volts. I plugged into shore power using 110 converter plug to the house. After charging all night the batteries are at 11.02 volts and with the generator running for the last hour is still at 11.02v .

Notes:
1- Batteries charged all night on shore power through converter very slow recovery?

2- Generator put into auto 1 hour ago and started as it should but batteries still at same 11.02 volts

3- CODE ---E02 displays between showing batter voltage and then to code then back to E02. Generator running and green light is lit up.

Questions:
1-- Does the convertor only trickle charge the batteries?
2-- Shouldn't the generator send more juice to the house batteries?
3-- What is the code represent or telling me.
4-- Any help here would be great and there is nothing powered up, the house switch was turned on before connecting to shore power and remains in the USE position

The trip with the new batteries were shown at 13.8 to 14.1 when charged and would run the residential fridge for many hours when off the grid.

Thanks Quantum

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Old 07-01-2021, 03:17 PM   #2
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THOR #6903
House power on for certain?
Check the voltage across the switched solenoid
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Old 07-01-2021, 03:25 PM   #3
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Yes, the lights and all other power will work when it is on, I am just not turning any other appliances on other than the Residential Fridge.
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Old 07-01-2021, 03:38 PM   #4
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An afterthought, but you should study up on lead-acid batteries and their properties. Not familiar with your rig, but your batteries should get 14+ volts with your rig engine running (not the generator).

If after pumping charge with at least 14 volts for a half hour - and you don't see any appreciable increase in battery voltage - you may have some dead cells in one or more of the batteries.

I would suggest at minimum investing in a small rooftop 100 watt solar panel setup. Unless you're stored indoors, that will keep the batteries topped off above 13 volts.
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Old 07-01-2021, 03:42 PM   #5
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will check on that. Still looking to find out what the inverter and the generator should send for power to the batteries for recharging.

If the inverter a trickle charge? Generator? I am aware that the Altenator is the most efficient and driving is the best

Thanks
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Old 07-01-2021, 03:53 PM   #6
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The inverter doesn't charge your batteries, the converter does.

Are you seeing the code on the inverter? If so check what the code means for your particular model. Normally this would be low voltage which would be correct for what you are describing.

Are you going by the voltage shown on the inverter or are you measuring at the batteries with a meter?
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Old 07-01-2021, 04:08 PM   #7
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Sorry meant the converter.

Reading the coach battery meter and assuming not at full charge. No tester yet.

Also the code is---E02 and that is one reason why I asked if anyone knew what it meant and went to the tech forum.

Thanks Ed


I have a e450 ws31 Thor Quantum. 3 batteries in the house
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Old 07-01-2021, 04:25 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quantum View Post
will check on that. Still looking to find out what the inverter and the generator should send for power to the batteries for recharging.

If the inverter a trickle charge? Generator? I am aware that the Altenator is the most efficient and driving is the best

Thanks
Any time there is 120 volts power to the power center (usually located under the bed). the converter has the capability of supplying 50 to 85 amps to the coach's 12 volt wiring. This includes the house batteries if the master power is on (use/store in the USE position). If the battery resting voltage is below 12.4 volts or so, the converter's computer will go into "bulk" mode supplying max amperage to the house batteries (50 amps or so). As soon as the voltage in the 12 volt system reaches 14.2 volts, the charger's computer will shift into the "absorptive"" mode dropping the amperage as it maintains the 14.2 voltage. When the total amperage draw reaches 3 to 5 amps the converter's computer will switch to the "float mode" and the output voltage will drop to 13.1 to 13.6 volts depending on the temperature in power center or the battery compartment if your charger has a remote battery temperature sensor. With 120 volts supplied to the power center, the coach's 12 volt wiring should always read 13.1 volts or higher. This is true for all lead acid batteries. Some converters allow for different voltage settings for the bulk and absorb modes but the are 2 to 4 tenths of a volt.
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Old 07-01-2021, 04:26 PM   #9
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Does your microwave or any 110V outlets work?

Any breakers tripped on your control panel?

Are you able to connect to shore power to check if anything works?

Sounds like a supply or converter problem.
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Old 07-01-2021, 04:27 PM   #10
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It’s tough to troubleshoot with out a volt meter. They’re cheap at harbor freight about ten bucks.

First test without a meter is to disconnect from shore power and check your use,store switch. Turn on a interior light, in store it should be off. In use the interior light should come on.

If that works, it shows that the batteries are connected .

Next put the batteries in store. Power up the shore power and interior light should come on. That proves converter is putting out power.

If that works then I would suspect one of the new batteries has a dead cell. This is when a volt meter comes in.

Let us know…….
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Old 07-01-2021, 04:45 PM   #11
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Great feedback

Thank you
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Old 07-01-2021, 04:45 PM   #12
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All house power and appliances working fine.
TY
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Old 07-01-2021, 04:52 PM   #13
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Check the 40A fuses on your converter but you really would be better investing in a multimeter for any further fault finding.
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Old 07-01-2021, 05:56 PM   #14
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Your converter is not connected to the house batteries - hence, they are not charging and your inverter is telling you that there is LOW VOLTAGE on the house batteries.

Unplug from SP - Do your interior lights still work?

If so, you have bad reverse polarity fuses or a bad converter.

If not, the battery disconnect is OPEN or you have tripped the 50 amp DC breaker to the house DC buss and latching relay. This breaker is located near your batteries and looks like this:



If the flag is visible (could be any color) the breaker is tripped. Push the flag back in to reset it.
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Old 07-07-2021, 07:48 PM   #15
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Residential fridge is problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by quantum View Post
New batteries installed prior to last trip. 3 100ah 12v Duracell's . After about 6 weeks of not running the RV after last trip and shutting off all the house power The voltage was down to below 11volts. I plugged into shore power using 110 converter plug to the house. After charging all night the batteries are at 11.02 volts and with the generator running for the last hour is still at 11.02v .

Notes:
1- Batteries charged all night on shore power through converter very slow recovery?

2- Generator put into auto 1 hour ago and started as it should but batteries still at same 11.02 volts

3- CODE ---E02 displays between showing batter voltage and then to code then back to E02. Generator running and green light is lit up.

Questions:
1-- Does the convertor only trickle charge the batteries?
2-- Shouldn't the generator send more juice to the house batteries?
3-- What is the code represent or telling me.
4-- Any help here would be great and there is nothing powered up, the house switch was turned on before connecting to shore power and remains in the USE position

The trip with the new batteries were shown at 13.8 to 14.1 when charged and would run the residential fridge for many hours when off the grid.

Thanks Quantum
I have a 2016 WS31. I had the same issue and it was explained as this - The inverter running the residential fridge takes up more then the generator or shore power gives to the battery. So while the inverter is powering the fridge then you won’t be able to get a full charge to the battery.
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Old 07-07-2021, 08:10 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyMan View Post
I have a 2016 WS31. I had the same issue and it was explained as this - The inverter running the residential fridge takes up more then the generator or shore power gives to the battery. So while the inverter is powering the fridge then you won’t be able to get a full charge to the battery.
Absolutely incorrect

See my post above yours for the OP's problem.
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Old 07-07-2021, 08:15 PM   #17
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Well there ya go. Kinda what I was thinking. After I drove the RV a few hours all was up and good to go again.

Thanks
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Old 07-07-2021, 08:59 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyMan View Post
I have a 2016 WS31. I had the same issue and it was explained as this - The inverter running the residential fridge takes up more then the generator or shore power gives to the battery. So while the inverter is powering the fridge then you won’t be able to get a full charge to the battery.
Well that could be true for a residential fridge running full time. For the typical WFCO charger or a PPS charge listed as 55 amps output the wattage rating is 940 watts input and 780 watts output at 14.2 volts. The three stage converter will endeavor to deliver at least 13.1 volts in cold weather and up-to 13.5 in hot weather which is the minimum charging voltage for a lead acid battery. The converter functions with voltage and amperage regulation. The only time the converter can not keep the voltage about 13.1 to 14.2 volts is when the batteries are discharged below 80% of their capacity or there is a sufficient coach load to force the converter into bulk charging. In this case the voltage will drop to limit the current output of the converter to keep from burning out the converter's power transistors. My Whirlpool 24 cuft refrigerator list the max amperage at 7.2 amps @ 120 volts or 864 watts.

The question is why is the converter supplying power to the inverter when you are on shore power or running the generator. This could only happen if the inverter's 120 volt circuit breaker in the power center was tripped.
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Old 07-08-2021, 04:22 AM   #19
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Post You can request an electric diagram from Thor

I would suggest you request an electric diagram from Thor to validate how your particular unit was wired.
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