fresh water tank sagging, Tuscany

[jonesyracing]

2013 Tuscany 45LT purchased last year. fresh water tank is sagging, and aluminum under coach is bulging downward. Has anyone else had this problem and addressed it. I have not attempted to fix yet but as I lightly probed a small hole in the thin aluminum floor of the bottom of coach it appears that they used some type of plywood under the tank and it is crumbling to pcs likely from getting wet. I have not contacted Good Sam yet as we have the service contact but am guessing it is going to be an ordeal getting them to pay, plus wondering if Camping world would even fix it right. My thoughts would be cut out the crappy extremely thin aluminum sheet, remove junk wood, and replace wood with maybe the pink or blue styrofoam insulation sheets found at Lowes. Then replace aluminum and add a couple more steel supports. Currently only one approx 2" square tube supports the tank in the middle of coach. Anyone else?

[ducksface]

A dealer would be the LAST place to go.
It's nonstandard work so it's a mystery to the 'remove and replace' rv service techs.
Anyone who can do such work on your home can do such work on your rv.
Get a bid from a handyman you trust and then decide if saving that amount of money and letting some pseudo-electrician at cw do woodwork on your rv is worth the savings.

It's an easy fix.

Personally I have used aluminum diamond plate anywhere I found plywood had been used.

[EA37TS]

Find an independent RV service center that also does customization work. We have 2 in our area, one that works on the standard type RVs and one that specializes in custom buses such as Prevost and Foretravel.

I wouldn't let CW anywhere near something like that.

Thought, did you buy the rig new or used? If new, did you check on the structural warranty which on many units is 10 years.

[jonesyracing]

Bought used just in October from a Gander. The Tuscany is like new condition as it was always garaged, but finding the hidden issues. That was one reason I opted for the Good Sam service contract. (fridge alone being 7 years old could quit anytime and it doesn't just come out the side door...) I am guessing structural warranty only covers first owner. As for CW and that kind of work I had the same opinion you guys do. I will likely fix myself, it is timing that is bad as winter time in Denver, and first trip planned in late March and between now and then not many opportunities for the project without snow and cold. Hate paying someone else for work I can do but will see if weather will cooperate. Paying someone to do a special project like that done right I see being between 1-2k. I guess if you are going buy something like that I better be prepaired for the cost to keep it up.

[Pete'sMH]

What EA37TS said. But check first to see if your service agreement covers it and if that repair shop will work with them. Most service agreements don’t cover structural issues but they might have something to say about a failed water tank. Also sounds like you may have the skills to fix it yourself and I’m a big supporter of that. You’ll learn lots and (if it’s your nature) you’ll get a better job.

[lwmcguire]

Curious about your entry door

Most Tuscany models have larger than the normal door

My Whirlpool will come out turned sideways

As Pete noted, fix it yourself

Originally Posted by jonesyracing

Bought used just in October from a Gander. The Tuscany is like new condition as it was always garaged, but finding the hidden issues. That was one reason I opted for the Good Sam service contract. (fridge alone being 7 years old could quit anytime and it doesn't just come out the side door...) I am guessing structural warranty only covers first owner. As for CW and that kind of work I had the same opinion you guys do. I will likely fix myself, it is timing that is bad as winter time in Denver, and first trip planned in late March and between now and then not many opportunities for the project without snow and cold. Hate paying someone else for work I can do but will see if weather will cooperate. Paying someone to do a special project like that done right I see being between 1-2k. I guess if you are going buy something like that I better be prepaired for the cost to keep it up.

[jonesyracing]

I'm with ya EA37TS and Pete'sMH, I will likely end up fixing it myself to make sure it is done correct. My concern now is the way the tank is deformed from sagging that when I attempt to push up to put in new supports it may crack the tank, or just push it and the grey and black tanks up in it's current shape. I am not sure if it would be best to have the plastic heated up some, or atleast maybe half full of warm water so that just the parts of the tank that are sagging between the outside of the coach and the center support push up. Then weld or drill/tap and bolt a couple added supports going from outside bottom rails of compartment to the center support that runs lengthwise with coach.
Also Iwmcquire, You could be right on the fridge going thru the door, I will have to measure. I did see where Thor made a wider door for the Tuscany in 2014, (mine is '13). Also it is a residential fridge, (counter depth atleast). It was just mentioned to me that if fridge goes out, typically the slide has to be removed, or windshield to exchange them. I will just hope that we dont have issues with the fridge for a few years atleast!! Thanks for all your responses. it is good to know their is support and others to talk to.
Another nice sidenote is that Thor does monitor this forum and reached out to me and they took my info to update as new owner, and looking into the structural warranty.

[lwmcguire]

Would be curious if you have the larger door

Certainly a nice thing

[powerboatr]

i pulled mine out awhile ago to wrap some heat tape on lower half.
it actually comes out easy from passenger side .


if wood is rotted it was from water . most likely the vent hose leaked or the fill hose was leaking, they come loose ALOT. i changed mine to hot tub hose and this stopped the fill hose from leaking at the tank connection

[jonesyracing]

I will have to look at how easy mine will be to remove. I cant believe how many hoses going all directions in this thing compared to our 2001 National. There are 3 "bypass valves" and unlike our old coach the bypasses just bypass the whole house filter and not the water heater. (heater is the Aqua hot which is a whole different animal.) As for the wood below fresh water tank, I dont believe there is a leak because I didn't notice and drips after adding water, the wood may have just gotten wet from the small cracks and holes in the sheet meatal below that has allowed water from splash back from driving in rain. Also the bits of wood that fell from the holes seems more like particle board that has crumbled apart. It is kind of bad design to have a 100 gallon tank that is basically full width of coach and only supported around perimeter and one support in middle, so tank is drooping roughly 2-1/2 " on each side of the middle support which then has the sheetmetal bottom of compartment tore loose from the bottom frame of compartment and pushed down. Just not work I should need to do on a 7 year old coach that cost well over $300k when it was new. Guess I should know that these things are constant work. Our next upgrade may have to be a tent. ;-)

[powerboatr]

Originally Posted by jonesyracing

I will have to look at how easy mine will be to remove. I cant believe how many hoses going all directions in this thing compared to our 2001 National. There are 3 "bypass valves" and unlike our old coach the bypasses just bypass the whole house filter and not the water heater. (heater is the Aqua hot which is a whole different animal.) As for the wood below fresh water tank, I dont believe there is a leak because I didn't notice and drips after adding water, the wood may have just gotten wet from the small cracks and holes in the sheet meatal below that has allowed water from splash back from driving in rain. Also the bits of wood that fell from the holes seems more like particle board that has crumbled apart. It is kind of bad design to have a 100 gallon tank that is basically full width of coach and only supported around perimeter and one support in middle, so tank is drooping roughly 2-1/2 " on each side of the middle support which then has the sheetmetal bottom of compartment tore loose from the bottom frame of compartment and pushed down. Just not work I should need to do on a 7 year old coach that cost well over $300k when it was new. Guess I should know that these things are constant work. Our next upgrade may have to be a tent. ;-)

very strange. my 2008 model has three steel braces under the water tank 3/4 plywood that is wrapped in black poly stuff on upper and some sort of plastic covering on the road side.


good luck on getting it fixed

[Scubawise]

Good luck..get a propane heater and fix it

[mjdougherty]

I have a 2016 Tuscany 45AT. A couple years ago the floors in the storage compartments and the water/wastewater compartment were deteriorating to the point that I knew something was going to fall out of the bottom of the coach someday.

I'm pretty sure that I had some leaks in the "water department" that caused the floor in that compartment to fail. Our local dealer's repair shop recently cut out a portion of the floor in that bay and replaced only that section (from the fresh water tank to the water compartment door).

I asked him to "paint" the edges of the new board with marine varnish/sealer to try and prolong its life this time around.

The original floor had been coming apart at the outside edges AND the inside edge where the plastic tub sits, just below the tank drain valves.

As the floor board was coming apart, my water pump mounting screws had worked loose and the pump began to make a lot of noise.

I fixed the pump vibration by drilling holes through the floor and using long SS screws, fender washers and aircraft nuts on the underside of the floor board. It quieted right down!

The floors in the two full width storage compartments were also starting to crumble at the edges, similar to the floor in the water compartment.

There were no leaky pipes in that area that could be causing the problem. However, I believe there was a lot of water mist coming in past ill-fitting doors and bad weather seals, whenever we drove down the highway during a rainstorm.

The inside of these compartments was always wet after it rained, which caused us to put all of our "stuff" inside weatherproof plastic storage boxes. This treated the symptoms, of course, but did not cure the disease.

I tried to adjust the doors myself, to reduce water entry, but was unable to loosen all of the screws on the door hinges and the brackets of the air piston restraints. All that I could do was tweak a few things to make the door locks close a little bit tighter. That helped a little, but didn't eliminate the problem.

Unfortunately, over the past couple of years I had to replace several door panels on both sides of the coach due to some bonehead "accidents" of mine.

The new doors were installed with more care (than the factory) and the water entry (from driving in the rain) was reduced dramatically, to almost nothing.

The storage bay floors have stopped deteriorating as a result. Applying varnish, or sealant, to the exposed edges of the plywood has helped stop the "decay" from progressing. These floors are still structurally sound.

It would be a good idea if Thor started to use marine grade plywood for the basement floor panels. That might help eliminate the degradation of the flooring, or at least slow down the process.

They put that white plastic coating on the exposed surfaces inside the storage bays but don't do anything to protect the edges of the floor boards.

Maybe reading about the issues I've had, and how they were resolved, will benefit some of the other members of the forum.

Of course, I don't recommend crashing your storage bay doors as a way to solve your water problems [emoji849].

[powerboatr]

on my bulb seals for the doors i threaded 1/4 " vinyl tubing through them to give them more UMMPH and added splash dampers on the bottom and front sides of doors to act as water blockers when driving i the rain, and mud flaps right behind the front wheels , see pic

stopped almost all the water entry
i used black rubber garage door seals as the splash dampers,



my 2nd door on passenger side the water was getting trapped on the top edge and would run out on you or inside if you opened the door

[mjdougherty]

I'd like to see a picture of the splash dampers. Did you buy mud flaps or make them yourself? Did you put the mud flaps on the front wheel wells only? Good ideas!

Originally Posted by powerboatr

on my bulb seals for the doors i threaded 1/4 " vinyl tubing through them to give them more UMMPH and added splash dampers on the bottom and front sides of doors to act as water blockers when driving i the rain, and mud flaps right behind the front wheels , see pic

stopped almost all the water entry
i used black rubber garage door seals as the splash dampers,



my 2nd door on passenger side the water was getting trapped on the top edge and would run out on you or inside if you opened the door

[powerboatr]

Originally Posted by mjdougherty

I'd like to see a picture of the splash dampers. Did you buy mud flaps or make them yourself? Did you put the mud flaps on the front wheel wells only? Good ideas!

yes i made front mud flaps myself, from 3/8" rubber mat.

you see one here behind front tire


i have a pic of splash diverters but its not real good. they attach to the front side of the door to block the bulb seal from big stuff
and along bottom with a cut out around the latch plate
attached with 1/8" self drilling screws and a 3/4" flat washer on the rubber side to support it
will try to get a BRIGHT one tomorrow

[lwmcguire]

Nice work!

Originally Posted by powerboatr

yes i made front mud flaps myself, from 3/8" rubber mat.

you see one here behind front tire


i have a pic of splash diverters but its not real good. they attach to the front side of the door to block the bulb seal from big stuff
and along bottom with a cut out around the latch plate
attached with 1/8" self drilling screws and a 3/4" flat washer on the rubber side to support it
will try to get a BRIGHT one tomorrow

[Scubawise]

Can't see mud flaps and youtube vedio or clear pic

[powerboatr]

blue circle

[Jacktextor]

Originally Posted by jonesyracing

2013 Tuscany 45LT purchased last year. fresh water tank is sagging, and aluminum under coach is bulging downward. Has anyone else had this problem and addressed it. I have not attempted to fix yet but as I lightly probed a small hole in the thin aluminum floor of the bottom of coach it appears that they used some type of plywood under the tank and it is crumbling to pcs likely from getting wet. I have not contacted Good Sam yet as we have the service contact but am guessing it is going to be an ordeal getting them to pay, plus wondering if Camping world would even fix it right. My thoughts would be cut out the crappy extremely thin aluminum sheet, remove junk wood, and replace wood with maybe the pink or blue styrofoam insulation sheets found at Lowes. Then replace aluminum and add a couple more steel supports. Currently only one approx 2" square tube supports the tank in the middle of coach. Anyone else?

I too have the same bus, year and issue. Noticed it was sagging before our departure to Florida. Will need to take a closer look. Will probably put diamond plate supported by angle iron. Also, FYI our residential fridge has shut dow three times this winter during cooler weather. Thank goodness it’s restarted after a few hours. I dread getting anything through the door, which is 29” wide.