Battery Replacement Question

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

Absolutely and positively agree 100%

This is surprisingly the one thing that I did NOT LEARN before buying my despite almost 18 months on forums. I still have acids stains on a new $3,000 concrete RV Port built just for the RV. Instead I documented in my SOP Manual for my RV all of tricks to water batteries and try to prevent the corrosion which none of it worked and it was a PITA to get and out of that compartment all the time just to clean. Turns out the only trick was to dump the FLA.

Actually there is another lesson learned. For many there is a forgone conclusion that Golf Cart batteries are a magic pill. Well they are, but there are many 12v Pure AGM Deep Cycles models being sold today that not only deep cycle the same as Gold cart batteries; but can exceed performance; and often times will have more capacity related to the size. I am still waiting on someone to list a model/brand/specifications of a GC battery that can exceed 125AH each, maintenance free, last 8 - 10 years (handle 3 to 4 times normal cycles). And to think some people actually buy 4 gold carts batteries to exceed AHs, but only by 20 amps or so

The difference for me was the cost/benefit equation. I think it's beneficial for someone buying house batteries to power their RV to consider:
* How often am I unplugged from shore power?
* What are my power requirements?
* What is my tolerance for battery maintenance?
* What is my budget?

We camp "unplugged" often, but don't require a lot of DC amps. I like having plenty of 12 volt power to operate the slideout, levelers, house lights, etc. Anything like AC or microwave, I fire up the genny.

Budget and maintenance tolerance are in the same bucket for me... I figure if I tolerated changing diapers on two babies, checking water in my RV batteries every couple weeks is a piece of cake... but that's just MY personal preference - and tolerance. Just a mindset I guess.

With that information in hand, I chose the twin golf cart (GC2) batteries from Sam's club at $89 each. They're old school - but are a tried and true solution which fit into my cost/benefit equation. If I get 5 years of service from them, I'm happy. Part of my cost equation was installing enough rooftop solar to keep the batteries fully charged - which included 2 fairly cheap 100 watt panels and an MPPT charge controller to properly charge/cycle them. I calculated loss of efficiency from the cheaper panels, plus being in Ohio. So far, the batteries are held at 13.6 volts full charge - even in winter.

So, I consider my install (for my usage) a success. My requirements/tolerance/budget is obviously different from others. But to get the most from your install, I urge everyone to run through this scenario. You might require/desire a $10,000 lithium/solar setup... or you may be on the lower budget end. Life is full of choices!!

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Bob Denman

I guess I'm looking for a "Trolling motor" battery...

From that aspect of thinking, you should look for a good quality Solar Battery.

The batteries I actually bought were actually designed for Solar Applications. Vmax SLR 125 They are Group 31s. If there is a negative it is the weight, but that is how they stuff in 125ah in Group 31s. I am just happy to have all of that corrosion crap go away. It just looks cleaner and fewer posts to accidentally short something.

https://www.amazon.com/VMAXSLR125-2-.../dp/B00NLQQE1E

Looks like the price has increased since I bought mine? Try calling VMax directly. The shipping is free and you may not have to pay tax?

Note: For anyone looking to buy any AGM from any Mfg. Please verify that your charger works with the AGM batteries you are looking to buy. Do NOT Assume. Most modern chargers with Intelligent programming should be just fine. I called Vmax directly to verify and ended up buying directly from them while on the phone.

[Bob Denman]

Thanks for the link: it's time to get "edumacated"...

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

The difference for me was the cost/benefit equation. I think it's beneficial for someone buying house batteries to power their RV to consider:
* How often am I unplugged from shore power?
* What are my power requirements?
* What is my tolerance for battery maintenance?
* What is my budget?

Agree. In my case, after 1 year experience in my new RV, I learned that I had ZERO tolerance for maintenance. Additionally, it was requirement for me to run all of my normal inverter loads for a min of 12 hours (overnight during a quiet time) without the use of generator or a recharge. I am getting more like 24 hours now

I will also throw out disclaimer that budget was not a factor for me. In my opinion considering the amount spent on gas; $500 on batteries that should last 8 years would not be a factor for most when weighed against other benefits. I should note that Lithium costs would seemingly be a factor for me, but in reality, if I had Lithium's today, I don't see anything gained from what I have now or need today. In fact; I could say the Lithium is a negative for me because I may have issues using my coach during the winter. I use my RV year around. Technically, I drain water 3 or 4 times a year, I don't truly winterize.

Take the above with a grain of salt, because I am now a bias person that will never ever buy another FLA battery. With today's cost of cars, boats and RVs, It is all about which AGM for me now, and when will the Lithiums resolve the freeze issues / concerns and become readily available with reasonable costs? During interim; I just bought got 6 - 7 years of more time; while I wait on Lithiums to advance the technology.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

We camp "unplugged" often, but don't require a lot of DC amps. I like having plenty of 12 volt power to operate the slideout, levelers, house lights, etc. Anything like AC or microwave, I fire up the genny.

Although I could with simply having the key in the ignition; I never run slide out without shorepower, or engine running. I would have to check, but I think I read that in one of my manuals. Had something to do with ensuring maximum voltage particularly with the slides if I recall? For levelers the engine is always running anyway.

Another thing, unless it is an emergency, once I start my slides in or out, I run it to it stops on it's own. I can't tell you how many times I forgot to close the bathroom door only to realize I had to re-open the slides all the way out and bring back in versus the temptation to want to just run it out 4 inches or so; close door, and bring it back in.