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Old 01-17-2019, 06:02 PM   #21
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THOR #2601
OK, I researched this topic when I compiled my Axis/Vegas Owners' Manual. So here is my challenge to Thor Engineers --

How friggin difficult is it to connect batteries. Put a knife switch on them. Closed = batteries are connected. Open = Batteries are disconnected. Knock off the Use/Store nomenclature. Get rid of latching relays. It should not be rocket science to connect batteries. It shouldn't take hundreds or thousands of comments and suggestions from owners on RV forums to figure out how batteries are connected and how they are charged.

OK -- rant over. You can go back to normal programming.

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Old 01-17-2019, 06:42 PM   #22
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THOR #14070
Figured it out. A little foreknowledge would have helped, but you guys are an awesome replacement for that!

The little bit of power left in the house batteries wasn’t enough to activate the latching relay, nor even light up the MAIN POWER switch light.

For future-sufferers of my experience, here’s what I did...

1. Disconnect shore power.
2. Connect a good car battery to the house battery via jumper cables.
3. Put the MAIN POWER into the on position (light is on).
4. Disconnect jumper cables.
5. Reconnect shore power.
6. Test with multimeter.

Ifght that was a good idea? How did you guys ON/OFF switch?!
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Old 01-17-2019, 09:13 PM   #23
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Yep, you are right. The switch takes some getting use to.

FYI : the moderators wont like your language and will delete part or all of this thread.

Need to keep it clean hear.
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Old 01-18-2019, 12:34 AM   #24
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Whoops! First offense. Sorry mods. I can’t seem to edit my post.

I meant to put this in MY thread on the topic and loused that up too. Sheesh!
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Old 01-18-2019, 02:33 AM   #25
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This is a little addition that gives me a sense of security.

The top volt meter is the chassis battery, while the lower is the coach battery(s). This way I can keep an eye and make sure that the batteries are charging when they should be, combined when they should be, and separated when they should be.. (This is how I found out my BIRD was wired wrong from the factory)

For a whole 5.95 it is one of the best values I have added to the coach.
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Old 01-18-2019, 03:35 AM   #26
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Thats nice. Looks like I have another thing to add to my mods list.
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Old 01-18-2019, 03:51 AM   #27
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Battery topic - one more time!

Absolutely love that. I have one that plugs into a battery tender type pigtail, but yours is MUCH better. Found it on Amazon and it’s already in my cart! Here it is:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721PQCKD..._6YuqCb44G4G8K
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Old 01-19-2019, 10:34 PM   #28
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Seen these and several other threads about battery issues with 31W or similar.
I have to admit that not being a "tech" guy makes my head spin when I read some of the posts. We have a 2017 31W and I am having similar issues. My Lippert leveler will not work in Auto Level mode anymore, and I understand that it needs a certain minimum voltage to do this (Think I read a post that said 13V?). The best I can get on the battery indicator on the control panel is 12.4V and that is with the motor running for at least 10 minutes and generator running, also with the use/store switch in the use position in case anybody asks. Also I am getting a continuous beeping from my Xantrex inverter showing error code E02 when I start the coach, which from the manual tells me is a low voltage alarm. Connecting to shore power in my driveway makes no difference either - the auto level still says low voltage . I have regularly checked/maintained my two house batteries and Chassis battery. I can manually raise and lower the jacks individually from the panel but really would like the thing to work the way it was intended. Is this more likely to be a battery problem or something else that I don't know about?
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Old 01-19-2019, 11:41 PM   #29
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Somewhere in the house battery compartment there is a 100 amp HD circuit breaker. It supplies power to the jack's electric motor and to the starter for the generator. Your jack control center gets its power from the chassis battery. The jack control center monitors both battery's voltages. If either of these voltages is below 13.7 volts when the engine running, you will get a low voltage alarm but the jack controller will still operate in manual until one of the voltages is below about 12.1 volts (50% battery capacity level). Your alternator tries to put out 14.2 volts at all times. The only time the voltage is less is when there is a relatively heavy load on the alternator. Emergency retract will try to operate anytime the engine is running and the parking brake is released. Lippert thinks it better to damage the electric jack motor than let you try to drive with the jacks down. You should never get a low voltage alarm if you have been running the engine for more than 3 hours or you are on shore power unless you have a failing battery. After 3 years, I found I would occasionally get a low voltage battery alarm but my after-market voltage meter tied to the chassis battery indicated 14.1 volts. About a month later, the electric step became cranky. Finally one day after stopping for lunch, the engine would not crank. A new Walmart chassis battery cured all my problems. The two original Harris house batteries are still holding up well.
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Old 01-20-2019, 02:45 AM   #30
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Thanks so much for your prompt reply. I did see an earlier post about this 100 Amp Circuit breaker, but I figured if that had tripped then nothing would work? And I couldn't find it anyway. My two house batteries are under the second step entering the coach and I guess I may have to take them out to find it, because it's not immediately apparent. Following your info though I do suspect that this is a battery issue.
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Old 01-20-2019, 05:50 PM   #31
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add another to the dual voltage readout. (mounting pic not yet wired at picture time.)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/z1hp55koc2...59.48.jpg?dl=0
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Old 01-25-2019, 09:21 PM   #32
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Turns out both my house batteries are no good anymore. Hard to believe after less than 2 years and me regularly checking them for fluid levels and keeping them charged!
I've read several posts about these (Harris?), so assume I am not the only one to have to suffer at the hands of Thor for installing lowest quality equipment and components.
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Old 01-25-2019, 10:02 PM   #33
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sounds like you need to check your specific gravity readings in each cell - easy to do with a simple and inexpensive 'float bulb' reader you can find at any auto store. you probably have a cell, or cells, that have lost their electrolyte levels and are no more holding their power.

I've had these 'stock' batteries for over 4 1/2 years, almost 5 since they were installed originally at the factory, and I can admit that they are more than likely NOT the problem just because they are 'stock' factory batteries - most batteries will last a long, long time if maintained, not overly discharged too often, or too long, and kept at good charge levels often.
Recently, I had an issue that I thought was my inverter or a device in my battery bay(a solenoid), which was causing my Inverter to suddenly shut off, for no apparent reason. It was simply low specific gravity in two cells on the #4 6v House battery.
I removed the suspect battery, drained it fully, filled with distilled water, ran thru several full Charging cycles over several days, drained again, filled with Battery Acid(found at most any auto parts store), ran thru several more Full charge cycles over several days - and the battery is now back in business, just like before.

Most folks who just 'assume' that 'stock' batteries are somehow inferior or different or cheaper than batteries that they themselves can buy, are just using an excuse that relieves them from any culpability in the maintenance of their batteries.
Your new batteries will likely have the same outcome if you do nothing differently than you've done before, no matter the brand or the price.

I would say that by your explanation in your original post that you have not stayed aware of how far you are allowing your inverter or 12v usage to pull down your batteries before you are then trying to recharge them. When they fall below 12, you are helping to do them damage yourself.
Also, don't assume that just because you have hit the 'salesman's' 12v disconnect switch that 'everything' should be off - they are not. Some devices require constant battery power to save their settings, continue to monitor Co2 and propane levels, etc... which will still draw down the batteries over days or weeks.
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Old 01-25-2019, 11:06 PM   #34
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Thanks for your response. I do understand about maintaining batteries. We are retired and use our Class C to get away for several days each month, so it is not sitting in a storage compound idle for long periods. I regularly check the levels in both chassis and house batteries, and also regularly connect to shore power in my driveway for 24 hours, and also run up my generator every 4 weeks, so I still do not understand why my Lippert Auto leveler continues to show no more than 12.4V and I get beeping error E02 on my inverter even after running the motor and generator for more than 15 minutes after being connected to shore power for the prior 24 hours. The auto level system has worked fine since I purchased the coach in 2017, and the inverter has consistently displayed voltages higher than it does now – today it maxed at 11.7V after driving 30 miles to Camping World.
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Old 01-25-2019, 11:17 PM   #35
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-make sure that your breaker box's Inverter/Charger breaker is not tripped, as this is what allows the Shore or Generator power to get to the Charger

-your Alternator may also charge the House batteries, but ONLY after the Chassis batteries have reached a sufficient level of charging themselves... sometimes 15 to 30mins might not yet be enough

when your House batteries are actually receiving a charge, the panel/readouts should reflect 13.5 to 14 or so... if not, then they are not receiving any charge...

it sounds like charging is not getting to your battery bank...
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Old 01-26-2019, 04:40 AM   #36
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All else fails just replace them with new batteries. I really like the AGM but they are pricey (but worth it IMO).

2 years is not very long on a battery but mine only lasted 9 mo and I really took good care of them. But with my new AGM's I have a lot less worries and more time to do my other mods to my RV. Im so glad I chose AGM's.

Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and buy new ones.

But only after your sure thats the only thing that will fix your problem.
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Old 01-26-2019, 04:11 PM   #37
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So i was reading this thread and wanted to check specific gravity levels. Anyone use the float or other methods to measure and has anyone used attitives to recharge batteries like this?
Charge It CH-77QHD Heavy-Duty Concentrated Battery Additive, 32 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GUUNMGM..._7zitCb0S22500
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Old 01-26-2019, 04:14 PM   #38
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yes, here's what I said before:

"I removed the suspect battery, drained it fully, filled with distilled water, ran thru several full Charging cycles over several days, drained again, filled with Battery Acid(found at most any auto parts store), ran thru several more Full charge cycles over several days - and the battery is now back in business, just like before."

give it a try, it certainly won't hurt...but it could improve them...
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Old 01-26-2019, 04:46 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurnerFam View Post
yes, here's what I said before:

"I removed the suspect battery, drained it fully, filled with distilled water, ran thru several full Charging cycles over several days, drained again, filled with Battery Acid(found at most any auto parts store), ran thru several more Full charge cycles over several days - and the battery is now back in business, just like before."

give it a try, it certainly won't hurt...but it could improve them...
Your draining the old acid out of your battery? Sound dangerous. What are you doing with the old acid?

It Sounds like it would work fine to keep an old battery going longer but this is NOT a job for the average Joe.

But I guess if you only had one bad cell I might try it... but not if all 6 cells are bad.

I think the average person just need to replace the battery - they may not think about saftey goggles, glove, leaking acid on painted surfaces, vapors in the air, ruining thier favorite jeans, proper disposal, pet saftey.... etc.
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Old 01-26-2019, 05:14 PM   #40
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yes, but I’m the ‘average joe’ and found it quite easy - it’s the weight of the battery itself that’s the ‘heavy’ part of the equation - and using any ‘ol storage tub to drain it into is not an issue - just add baking soda to change the drained liquids back into non-corrosive fluids you can then easily dispose of without worry...
there are plenty of videos of how to do it - no worries it’s exactly what the facotry is going to do with it when you trade it in for any new one.
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