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Old 10-30-2020, 02:57 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
I've got n older battery charger (brand unknown); with a dial on it, that allows me to more accurately set how much amperage I want it to throw at a problem.
I'll try to grab a picture of it for you.
That would be nice, the Flo-Jet comes with a 20 amp fuse. It must be a real issue with it blowing because I have already read the manual which tells you to turn some screw on the end when it is been idle to avoid blowing a fuse.

If I could set at 19 amps, then it would shut down the current before it allowed the fuse to blow

When I bought this RV there are two things that I didn't want to buy, 1) Gas and #2) Fuses


I know you are a insurance guy.

We got our Renewal today for the RV. The rate dropped about 30%
I renewed almost as soon as I got it. I still have that cracked windshield, but despite have coverage and no deductible for it; I have been living with it because I was afraid that when / if I file the claim; the insurance will go up. Especially in the 1st year. I am a month away from 1 year so maybe I file a claim next year if it gets worse.

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Old 10-30-2020, 08:40 AM   #42
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I've never used ours on the road either. We're currently on our first trip in the RV though so who knows maybe someday we'll find a park. The pumps more for a when Im at home so I don't have to pack everything up and drive through the city traffic to get to a dump site just to pay to get the tank emptied and then drive back through all the city traffic.
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Old 10-30-2020, 02:35 PM   #43
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Picture attached...
It's call a Vari-Amp charger.
Unfortunately; it's only got 10 amps worth of push behind it.
Perhaps they offer something a bit more stout?

https://www.thorforums.com/forums/at...1&d=1604064892
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Old 10-30-2020, 02:42 PM   #44
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Mines a little bigger. I use one of these. Although I think I have it on 10 amp when I run the pump Click image for larger version

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Old 10-30-2020, 03:06 PM   #45
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Size does matter...
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Old 10-30-2020, 06:16 PM   #46
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Mines a little bigger. I use one of these. Although I think I have it on 10 amp when I run the pump Attachment 26957
I was going to show mine, but after seeing that thing, I don't think so

You got enough room to store the black waste water and then wheel it off
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Old 10-30-2020, 06:43 PM   #47
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This might work a bit better...

https://www.thorforums.com/forums/at...1&d=1604079745
We've got the 36 gallon version, and it is really handy!
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Old 10-30-2020, 07:00 PM   #48
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True although I didnt buy that for this purpose I'm a mechanic so it was bought for the car when I was working on it. It just happened that it was a easy solution. I'm actually going to wire up a recepticle in the dirty box to plug it in to over the winter that way I can just run it off the batteries.
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Old 10-30-2020, 07:43 PM   #49
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When you do that: please take lots of pictures for those of us who aren't so "mechanically skilled...".
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Old 10-30-2020, 10:45 PM   #50
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I'll make sure I post it in my thread when I do.
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Old 10-30-2020, 10:47 PM   #51
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Thanks!
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Old 10-31-2020, 02:50 AM   #52
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Update:

My Jet-Flo does not come until next Tuesday

But today, I fired up genset after it had been sitting for months in anticipation I might use it to power the Jet-Flo While it was running I noticed the 12vdc output is only 8.3 amps So my Portable Genset is Piss Poor Performer for Poop duty by the Power Police

So out comes my old reliable Battery Charger. See picture. I will have to use it on the 50 amp setting to see if the unit works. I am going to trust the ACE versus going with my instinct. I can always stop it if it gets too hot.

I bought 2 50' 3/4" hoses from Harbor Freight. I am a sucker for a sale and they put them on sale today. Note: I only need 75' so I may cutoff 25' of one section. Just to put a little less strain on the pump. If I buy a fitting I could actually make a free extra 25' 3/4" hose for something else But to add to the drama, I may return both 50' hoses and buy 1 100' and do the same thing. It would eliminate one possible leak point.

I plan to roll both hoses or the one long 100' hose up on my oldest hose cart, but not use the 3 ft connection hose to the cart. The cart will be for Poop hose storage only.

Right now all tanks are empty and we almost had a freeze last night. But if this works well with the battery charger, I will look for picture from The Rooster to see how I may wire a 12vdc source inside my wet bay.
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Old 10-31-2020, 12:45 PM   #53
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If you hear somebody yell, "Fire in the hole!": get out of the way!

Nice call Bob. Havenít watched that in years. Saw it happen at Myrtle Beach one year. Guy was just standing ankle deep.
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Old 10-31-2020, 12:46 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by dkoldman View Post
Update:

My Jet-Flo does not come until next Tuesday

But today, I fired up genset after it had been sitting for months in anticipation I might use it to power the Jet-Flo While it was running I noticed the 12vdc output is only 8.3 amps So my Portable Genset is Piss Poor Performer for Poop duty by the Power Police
That's very normal. The DC output on AC generators is usually sized for charging a small starter battery (even if it doesn't have that capability) and isn't really meant for general use.
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Old 10-31-2020, 01:09 PM   #55
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Nice call Bob. Havenít watched that in years. Saw it happen at Myrtle Beach one year. Guy was just standing ankle deep.
That's when you'll find out who your friends really are!
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Old 10-31-2020, 05:09 PM   #56
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So out comes my old reliable Battery Charger. See picture. I will have to use it on the 50 amp setting to see if the unit works. I am going to trust the ACE versus going with my instinct. I can always stop it if it gets too hot.
Well, look at it this way:

Your battery puts out 12 VDC and is capable of supplying hundreds of amps to DC loads. But it only supplies the amps the loads call for. The loads have some "resistance" to current flow. In a simple DC circuit the "resistance" is actually resistance measured in ohms.

So if you connect your 12 volt battery to a lightbulb that has a resistance of 12 ohms, Ohm's Law says there will be 1 amp flowing in that circuit.
I (current) = Voltage/Resistance or 1 = 12 VDC/12 Ohms.

In more complex DC circuits that have motors and other batteries being charged the "resistance" includes the push-back from the charging battery and the Counter Electromotive Force (CEMF) of the operating motor, both of which are variable (as the battery charges its voltage increases so its "push-back" increases. As the workload on the motor increases its CEMF decreases and it draws more current to supply the load).

So when you change the range of your battery charger from say; 10 amps, to 50 amps, it does 2 things:
Raises the voltage applied to increase the current for a given battery.
Increases the ability of the charger to supply more current.

So if your battery charger applies; say, 14 VDC on the 10 amp setting, it will raise that applied voltage to; say, 16 VDC on the 50 amps setting - these are just theoretical numbers - your charger's voltage numbers may be different.

So if you are charging a battery on the 10 amp setting and it's actually only drawing 5 amps due to its state of charge ("resistance"), and you switch it to the 50 amp setting, the current will go up due to the increased applied voltage, but it won't go up to 50 amps because the battery is not dead and is still opposing the applied voltage reducing the current to what it will accept for it's state of charge.

Now unless you have a modern smart charger if you leave the battery on the 50 amp setting you will "cook" it because it can't charge to 16 VDC so the current will never decrease to 0 amps when it is fully charged.

Bottom line - get your voltmeter out and check the applied voltage on your charger on the 50 amp setting to be sure it's not ridiculously high. Remember, it's a charger, not a DC power supply.
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Old 10-31-2020, 06:02 PM   #57
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Well, look at it this way:

Your battery puts out 12 VDC and is capable of supplying hundreds of amps to DC loads. But it only supplies the amps the loads call for. The loads have some "resistance" to current flow. In a simple DC circuit the "resistance" is actually resistance measured in ohms.

So if you connect your 12 volt battery to a lightbulb that has a resistance of 12 ohms, Ohm's Law says there will be 1 amp flowing in that circuit.
I (current) = Voltage/Resistance or 1 = 12 VDC/12 Ohms.

In more complex DC circuits that have motors and other batteries being charged the "resistance" includes the push-back from the charging battery and the Counter Electromotive Force (CEMF) of the operating motor, both of which are variable (as the battery charges its voltage increases so its "push-back" increases. As the workload on the motor increases its CEMF decreases and it draws more current to supply the load).

So when you change the range of your battery charger from say; 10 amps, to 50 amps, it does 2 things:
Raises the voltage applied to increase the current for a given battery.
Increases the ability of the charger to supply more current.

So if your battery charger applies; say, 14 VDC on the 10 amp setting, it will raise that applied voltage to; say, 16 VDC on the 50 amps setting - these are just theoretical numbers - your charger's voltage numbers may be different.

So if you are charging a battery on the 10 amp setting and it's actually only drawing 5 amps due to its state of charge ("resistance"), and you switch it to the 50 amp setting, the current will go up due to the increased applied voltage, but it won't go up to 50 amps because the battery is not dead and is still opposing the applied voltage reducing the current to what it will accept for it's state of charge.

Now unless you have a modern smart charger if you leave the battery on the 50 amp setting you will "cook" it because it can't charge to 16 VDC so the current will never decrease to 0 amps when it is fully charged.

Bottom line - get your voltmeter out and check the applied voltage on your charger on the 50 amp setting to be sure it's not ridiculously high. Remember, it's a charger, not a DC power supply.
This is what my voltmeters says. Mind you my charger is at least 20 years old

.3 amps Maintainer 9.90 vdc
2 amps 10.29 vdc
10 amps 11.80 vdc
50 amps 13.71 vdc
Off 3.43 vdc ( I found this odd, I guess off don't mean off? )

Sounds like the charger should work for me. The manual says the Jet-flo should not run longer than 15 minutes; so I think I will allow it to run no more than 10 minutes max at one time; until it has had time to cool down.


I am also looking at other power alternatives.

1. Portable Generator - Out 8.3 vdc amp limit
2. Connect to Chassis Batteries - Not preferred would have to run wire across the entire coach
3. Connect to 12vdc going to the Onan 5500 generator - Not Preferred as the wiring is with a pack of about 8 looms so it is hard to know which is which; see picture.
4. Connect to wiring in wet bay that supplies the 10 amp water pump. See picture. Ideally if I could find a Y splitter connect and it would be plug and play. (assuming that the wiring could handle a possible 20 amp load) or I could put the male connector on the end of my sea dog plug? That would have mean simply unplug the pump, and then plug in the Jet flo using same connector. The latter has a built in safety because no chance of running water pump and macerator pump at the same time. What I don't know is what type of fuse is on the water pump line? I need 20 amps.


Related:
I returned the 2 new 50' 3/4" hoses in favor of 1 100' 3/4" hose. I only need 75 feet so I may cut off the last 25' or so.

When I was measuring this morning I was worried that the connection of the two 50' hoses would join somewhere in the house I am sure I could tighten the fittings so it would not leak, but why fool with it. a 75 ft hose is preferred for me, but they cost a lot more and can be 1 week or so to get in 3/4" size. It may be that cutting it off to be a perfect fit for my longest possible run of 71' or so is best anyway. Sticking the hose with no metal fitting down in toilet may also be better?
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Old 10-31-2020, 08:12 PM   #58
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We have the metal end on ours it goes down just fine. You really only have to go down far enough to make it through the trap. One thing to think about, with the metal end on both ends you can screw them together when done and if any ick is left in the hose it doesnt leak out into whatever your storing the hose in. Cut one end off and its wherever it wants to flow if anythings left.
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Old 10-31-2020, 08:17 PM   #59
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But when you shorten the hose: you can always add a fitting to the new end...
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Old 10-31-2020, 09:30 PM   #60
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We have the metal end on ours it goes down just fine. You really only have to go down far enough to make it through the trap. One thing to think about, with the metal end on both ends you can screw them together when done and if any ick is left in the hose it doesn't leak out into whatever your storing the hose in. Cut one end off and its wherever it wants to flow if anythings left.
I would prefer to have metal end than not have, but given the choices I have at the moment.

Harbor Freight
https://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-...ose-63336.html

With the coupon total cost including tax ended up being about $34. I have it at home now unopened

Wal Mart
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Gilmour-P...00PSI/19855345

With the shipping total cost including tax is about $57. I would not get until Nov 13

I will use a old hose cart to store this hose. So initially I am not sure to cut off 30ft and just leave it open (most discharge hoses are that way anyway) or at least try it 100' long and see how it goes?

If fitting is required, then the Wal Mart hose may be better but as Bob says, I can always add fitting but getting one that is true 3/4" may be costly.

Glad you told me to force it through the P trap in toilet ( that was otherwise an accident for me in the future

When I finish, I envision running fresh water through to clean out the hose. Pull the end out of toilet with my nitrile gloves and walk it outside. I then will disconnect from macerator and loosely attach female fitting end of hose to the hose cart, just enough so that when I turn the crank to reel the hose in it pulls. Any water inside the hose would have drain out as it was being pulled in. I can then just store cart so cut end or end with male fitting would still be opened in my case.

Note: I have already taken the 3 - 4' leader hose to the cart off so there is no way anyone can use that hose unless they roll it all the way out. That is another reason I want as short as possible. Even if I had the 75' hose I may wish to cut off 5 - 6' ? I park the RV in different configurations so I want the length to be my worse case scenario which may be 67 ort 68'?
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