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Old 04-27-2021, 01:42 PM   #1
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Cannot Remove Old Thermistor

I can't seem to move the thermistor. Was wondering if anyone has had this problem and what their solution might have been. I have a new one on the way as well as some fans to help with ventilation. In the mean time...

Background:
I tried to use a screwdriver to get it to move. Won't budge. I should probably put the new one where the old one was since the fridge worked like a champ until recently.

The fins frost up but the fridge remains at 42 on the second shelf and approaches 35 on the first with the door closed all night. The food does not freeze. I'm in FL and it's been getting a little toasty. Open the door like you do trying to prepare a meal and the second shelf rises to 50*

I wish I could point to the temperature change here but it's performed flawlessly until recent. The only thing I had to deal with in the past was defrosting the freezer once or twice a year.

Thanks in advance for any help regarding this issue.

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Old 04-27-2021, 09:55 PM   #2
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Just abandon the old one and clip the new one nearby. Itís purpose is to tell the controller how cold it is in the fridge so itís placement isnít especially critical.
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Old 04-27-2021, 11:36 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Pete'sMH View Post
Just abandon the old one and clip the new one nearby. Itís purpose is to tell the controller how cold it is in the fridge so itís placement isnít especially critical.
Thanks. I was hoping it would be that easy but the new ones, no matter where I looked, didn't include the clip.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...istor&_sacat=0
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Old 04-28-2021, 12:02 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by The_Breeze View Post
Thanks. I was hoping it would be that easy but the new ones, no matter where I looked, didn't include the clip.



https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...istor&_sacat=0


Donít think that matters much either - it just needs to hold the thing in place near the fins. Try a paper clip or even a bit of glue.
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Old 04-28-2021, 12:35 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Pete'sMH View Post
Donít think that matters much either - it just needs to hold the thing in place near the fins. Try a paper clip or even a bit of glue.
AWESOME! Thanks. A paper clip is better than nothing and adjustable
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Old 04-28-2021, 01:00 AM   #6
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One of these will do the trick.
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Old 04-28-2021, 01:44 AM   #7
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One of these will do the trick.
Thank you. I happen to have both. We'll see which works best.
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Old 04-28-2021, 02:00 AM   #8
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Have you tried sliding a good stiff putty knife in there?
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Old 04-28-2021, 12:57 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Breeze View Post
I can't seem to move the thermistor. Was wondering if anyone has had this problem and what their solution might have been. I have a new one on the way as well as some fans to help with ventilation. In the mean time...

Background:
I tried to use a screwdriver to get it to move. Won't budge. I should probably put the new one where the old one was since the fridge worked like a champ until recently.

The fins frost up but the fridge remains at 42 on the second shelf and approaches 35 on the first with the door closed all night. The food does not freeze. I'm in FL and it's been getting a little toasty. Open the door like you do trying to prepare a meal and the second shelf rises to 50*

I wish I could point to the temperature change here but it's performed flawlessly until recent. The only thing I had to deal with in the past was defrosting the freezer once or twice a year.

Thanks in advance for any help regarding this issue.
Also do not forget to check the rear of the reefer (outside access) to ensure there is proper ventilation from bottom to the top. There are videos describing this process and tips on how to 'modify' the flow of air to increase efficiency.
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Old 04-28-2021, 04:44 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Lloyd View Post
Have you tried sliding a good stiff putty knife in there?
Great idea and no I haven't. I gave that to my daughter when she bought her house (I full time). I'm visiting parents. I'll see if my father has one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldWEB View Post
Also do not forget to check the rear of the reefer (outside access) to ensure there is proper ventilation from bottom to the top. There are videos describing this process and tips on how to 'modify' the flow of air to increase efficiency.
Yes Sir, thank you. There's nothing 'blocking' the passage way. I can see up to the vent. The fins started to ice up and she was at 40* on the second shelf on setting '4'. I dropped it back down to 3 where it used to be and am watching it throughout the day.

I ordered these and they're on their way. Should be here Monday. I believe I know how I'll mount them in there but will start a new thread on where best to tap into the 12v supply. I don't believe the one for the control board is a good idea. I have a fish tape. I'll run completely new if I have to.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254854754166

Thanks again.
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Old 04-28-2021, 06:05 PM   #11
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$13 for 80 mm PC fans?

How about (3) 120 mm PC fans for the same price.

https://www.amazon.com/uphere-3-Pack...dp/B072LDYKQ6/
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Old 04-28-2021, 06:41 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by 16ACE27 View Post
$13 for 80 mm PC fans?

How about (3) 120 mm PC fans for the same price.

https://www.amazon.com/uphere-3-Pack...dp/B072LDYKQ6/
I get your point. I guess this would be the long way of saying 'because of the way I intend to mount them'?

120 (4.72" - say 4 3/4) was too large. I went for those first and realized they won't work. I have 3.75in to play with. It's hard to tell from the pic because of the angle, but 3.75 is my max.

80mm is roughly 3". that gives me roughly 3/8 on each side to run a rail (mount points) and straddle the length of the cavity or cut holes in a solid piece of wood. I attached a few rough drafts of what the mount may look like. One uses spars, the other a solid piece of wood. Both approaches would simply use 'L' brackets at each end for support.

I'm beginning to favor the latter because that would effectively 'seal' the boundaries a little better, forcing the air up through the stack. Some may still get pulled downward through the space between the bottom coils and back of the fridge and my hope is it draws more so through the vents (cooler air).

My plan was to mount the fans at the top of the opening in the pic to 1) maximize the number of vents (3) and 2) possibly create an upward 'draft' effect once the fans spun up to take some of the pressure off the fans - using the old heat 'rises' mentality. I figure once I got things going, mother nature would assist the drafting process. It could also help the fan from blowing pressure out one or more of the lower vents rather than past the coils, as intended.

If you see anything glaringly wrong with this approach, please don't hesitate to speak up. I value people's opinions, even if I don't always adopt them for myself.

While we're on the subject, does anyone know a good place to tap 12vdc other than the 12v going to the board?
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Old 04-28-2021, 08:20 PM   #13
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You mention "There's nothing 'blocking' the passage way. I can see up to the vent."
So does that mean there are no baffles to 'direct' the air flow?
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Old 04-28-2021, 09:36 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldWEB View Post
You mention "There's nothing 'blocking' the passage way. I can see up to the vent."
So does that mean there are no baffles to 'direct' the air flow?
That's correct. I can see light all around the vent (all 4 sides) though my vent doesn't produce the same harsh angle as your pic. I have a cabinet above the fridge so I guess they use the 'wall' it creates as part of the flue. It's a straight shot up and out.
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Old 04-28-2021, 10:09 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by The_Breeze View Post
That's correct. I can see light all around the vent (all 4 sides) though my vent doesn't produce the same harsh angle as your pic. I have a cabinet above the fridge so I guess they use the 'wall' it creates as part of the flue. It's a straight shot up and out.
The baffles are there to force the air thru the coils... NOT straight up the outside wall. So I am sure if you look up from the bottom, you should see a baffle, not skylight.
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Old 04-28-2021, 10:28 PM   #16
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The baffles are there to force the air thru the coils... NOT straight up the outside wall. So I am sure if you look up from the bottom, you should see a baffle, not skylight.
No Sir, no identifiable baffles. Just straight up and out. It's possible they left them out. Not like this stuff hasn't happened before. Let the sun get overhead tomorrow when there's enough light and I'll post a pic.

Thanks for your feedback on this.
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Old 05-01-2021, 07:46 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by The_Breeze View Post
Thank you. I happen to have both. We'll see which works best.
The black one will work. The paper clip will not. The old one will come off unless somebody glued it on. Use a putty knife as stated above.
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Old 05-01-2021, 09:54 PM   #18
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The black one will work. The paper clip will not. The old one will come off unless somebody glued it on. Use a putty knife as stated above.
Thank you for that. I would have otherwise been at a loss to understand why it wasn't working. Part came today, I got the putty knife today. The planets have aligned (lol). Tomorrow, it's ice and a cooler as a contingency plan.
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