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Old 10-11-2021, 05:28 PM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Windsport 31S
State: Oregon
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Charge Line on Huricane Windsport - dead

Looking to the group for ideas on finding my wiring ghost.

I lost power to the 7 way charge line (constant power), worked before and now its been dead for about a year.

I have checked fuses, most recent was F5 "charge line" under dash. I haven't found an open circuit, or bad fuse yet.

Any tips or advice is appreciated, I'm usually pretty good at this sort of thing.

thank you.

Chris

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Old 10-11-2021, 05:33 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPass58 View Post
Looking to the group for ideas on finding my wiring ghost.

I lost power to the 7 way charge line (constant power), worked before and now its been dead for about a year.

I have checked fuses, most recent was F5 "charge line" under dash. I haven't found an open circuit, or bad fuse yet.

Any tips or advice is appreciated, I'm usually pretty good at this sort of thing.

thank you.

Chris
Wow a year is a long time. If you are near billings montana our 30 year rv tech and son are licensed electrician
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Old 10-13-2021, 02:10 AM   #3
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Have you checked to see if the wire is hot just before it goes into the receptacle? It could be a bad connection inside the receptacle.
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Old 10-13-2021, 04:58 PM   #4
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yes, good thought...I checked with test light and no power. I tried to chase the wire as far forward as I could. A couple folks suggested terminating it and running a new line (with a fuse of course) to avoid paying a tech many hours of chasing. I hate the idea of giving up what should be a simple fix, but starting to consider as an option.

I appreciate the help!
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Old 10-13-2021, 06:28 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by CPass58 View Post
yes, good thought...I checked with test light and no power. I tried to chase the wire as far forward as I could. A couple folks suggested terminating it and running a new line (with a fuse of course) to avoid paying a tech many hours of chasing. I hate the idea of giving up what should be a simple fix, but starting to consider as an option.

I appreciate the help!
Spend $30 and buy a allsun Pro Automotive Short & Open Finder Circuit Tester Wire Tracker Circuit Finder DC 6-42V Short Circuit Detector Short Detector Tool Power Probe Short Finder
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Old 10-13-2021, 07:20 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Beau388 View Post
Spend $30 and buy a allsun Pro Automotive Short & Open Finder Circuit Tester Wire Tracker Circuit Finder DC 6-42V Short Circuit Detector Short Detector Tool Power Probe Short Finder
Some reviews says does not work. Have you used inside a MH?

allsun Pro Automotive Short & Open Finder Circuit Tester Wire Tracker Circuit Finder DC 6-42V Short Circuit Detector Short Detector Tool Power Probe Short Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC4X28Y...40PJK7NZ6K0PMC
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Old 10-13-2021, 08:32 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scubawise View Post
Some reviews says does not work. Have you used inside a MH?

allsun Pro Automotive Short & Open Finder Circuit Tester Wire Tracker Circuit Finder DC 6-42V Short Circuit Detector Short Detector Tool Power Probe Short Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC4X28Y...40PJK7NZ6K0PMC
I have a GTC 310. It was expensive when I bought 4 years ago. It has served me well. It has a signal generator that you feed into the circuit in question (short/open) usually where the fuse is located. Using the probe you have to get close to the wire to hear the signal usually a 300 hz tone the wire is good. When there is no tone the wire is sorted or open. The transmitter will tell you which. You do not have to touch the wire to get a signal but you must be close about 1/2 inches max.
It is best used to find corroded/bent pins in connectors,
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Old 10-14-2021, 04:11 PM   #8
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For $30 its worth trying, I'll order it and crawl back underneath and see if I get lucky!

much appreciated!
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Old 10-14-2021, 05:02 PM   #9
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You could also use the "old school" continuity test on the wire using just your multimeter. Start at the BACK of the 7-pin connector (NOT the pin itself) to the under-dash brake controller wiring bundle/connector.

That simple test will tell you a lot. If the wire is "good", you may have a poor connection in the 7-pin receptacle.

If NO continuity, it could be a broken/loose wire or blown in-line fuse. Then comes the decision to either trace the wire to find the root problem, OR just run a new FUSED wire to the under-dash connector.
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Old 10-14-2021, 07:56 PM   #10
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thanks for the Tip, much appreciated!
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