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Old 03-13-2020, 04:06 AM   #1
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THOR #10631
Chassis Battery Replacement on a Vegas

What is this crap about cutting out the top of the dash to change out the chassis battery on a 2015 Vegas? Here's an alternate method:
Next to the battery is a fender well cover piece w/3 screws, between the battery & wheel well.

CAUTION: Be careful not to catch the back of the headlight (Yep). That goes for all steps of this procedure!

(1) From the outside above the right front wheel, remove the screws & remove that board. That is your battery passage.
(2) Remove the big breather hoses on the plastic panel (front part only) at the front of the hood area.
(3) The a/c receiver/dryer is the canister with the metal lines to it. Remove the 2 bolts holding it to the bracket, gently move the rubber hoses attached to the thing along with the thing up and to the right. This clears access to the battery.
(4) Disconnect battery cables.
(4) Using a long extension, remove the 5/16" nut holding the battery down. This is between the battery and engine in the battery tray.
(5) With someone below in the wheel well to take the battery, lift the battery out of its cradle and move it to the opening in the wheel well for the other person to catch it and remove from the chassis.

Reverse procedure to put in new battery.

This may not be news to a lot if you, but worked for me😁
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Old 03-13-2020, 07:21 PM   #2
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THOR #5820
Stickman thatís how a few of us have done it...I didnít need to move the A/C canister out of the way though....This procedure has been put on the forum a few times.....
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Old 03-15-2020, 08:22 PM   #3
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Thanks for the info.when it stops raining I’ll check out my Thor 2019 axis and see if we have the same under wheel.The dealer told me to cut out the wood under the laptop table on the dash.
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Old 03-19-2020, 03:31 AM   #4
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THOR #10631
Chassis Battery Replacement

I saw the you tube video and saw them cutting a hole into the engine compartment. This compromises the firewall effectiveness to keep an engine fire out of the passenger area.
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Old 03-19-2020, 03:45 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stickman View Post
I saw the you tube video and saw them cutting a hole into the engine compartment. This compromises the firewall effectiveness to keep an engine fire out of the passenger area.
That's funny! You think Class As have a "firewall"?
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Old 03-19-2020, 03:48 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stickman View Post
I saw the you tube video and saw them cutting a hole into the engine compartment. This compromises the firewall effectiveness to keep an engine fire out of the passenger area.
I feel an explanation of a class A dash is needed.

Your firewall is plywood. Nothing is compromised.
The hole is likely already there it just needs tabs removed.
I'm pretty sure an aluminum taped 1/8th inch kerf isn't going to be a detriment to a plywood firewall by being a flame path.


I don't think a firebreach into the cab has been a consideration ever on a MotorHome ever.

A class A(ish) is not a class c.

But
If you feel the integrity of the plywood is compromising in case of fire, a 20x20 sheet of tin or something fire proof of your choice will lay right over the plywood and the kerf.

Firewall is a misnomer. I'm going to hazard a guess it was originally the panel between a boiler and the firebox.
It's just a word used for the separation panel from engine to cab.
Lots of fiberglas cars with Glas firewalls.

In the thread in my signature is a post about Little automatic fire extinguishers. There's also mention of me moving my battery entirely.
It's headed for behind the passenger front tire.

I hope you didn't scare anyone with your statement.




Many of you hit the same chord in me as you do Ace/Ted....
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Old 03-19-2020, 12:23 PM   #7
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I did mine last year through dash. Was relatively easy job. I ised heavy metal clips to hold board in place. I sulation tape in groove and above to keep bugs out. Was easier for me than over wheel.

Going on 4 years now and performing very good.
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Old 03-19-2020, 12:40 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stickman View Post
I saw the you tube video and saw them cutting a hole into the engine compartment. This compromises the firewall effectiveness to keep an engine fire out of the passenger area.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ducksface View Post
I feel an explanation of a class A dash is needed.
...
Actually the dash/firewall doesn't matter at all as far an an engine fire in a Class A like the Vegas...
The Class A on the Ford F-53, F-450, F-350 stripped chassis - we are sitting on top of the engine... (between the 2 front seats).
It is on the passenger side of any 'firewall' already.
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Old 03-25-2020, 06:13 PM   #9
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I did the cutout on 2017 Vegas ... annoying but not difficult. I used a couple length of aluminum flashing to form a pan under the cutout with short "wings" that bent up and over the top edge surface for fastening. I liked the idea of covering the bottom side of the cutout ... mainly to deflect engine compartment heat. The best protection from engine fire is good insurance and slow fire department response.
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Old 03-25-2020, 06:31 PM   #10
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Choices for chassis battery replacement

Good to see multiple solutions to a problem. I changed batteries through the dashboard. Going through the wheel-well might be the better choice. I did not go that way because I assumed I would have to remove the wheel, put the motorhome on a jackstand.... seemed dangerous. With the wheel left in place, then OK.
However, while I was in through the dash, I did a little modifying like adding more sound insulation where I could, tying things off a little better, etc. Also, I did it by myself.
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Old 03-25-2020, 09:28 PM   #11
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Stickman, I imagine you had to take off the front wheel/tire....is that right?
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Old 03-26-2020, 12:16 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deacon Blues View Post
Stickman, I imagine you had to take off the front wheel/tire....is that right?


Nope no need, just turn your wheels all the way to the right and you have room to bring the battery down through the wheel well....
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Old 03-26-2020, 02:24 AM   #13
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The hole under the dash of my 2017 AXIS is pre cut by the factory, just two tabs to cut to pull it out, I cut a new piece of 1/2 plywood to get a tight fit and put 2 inch X 1/8 aluminum on the top to act as a flange and added a few screws to hold it in place, best way to get to the battery and to add oil after an oil change,
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Old Yesterday, 03:35 PM   #14
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Ford once produced a car that required pulling the engine to change a rear spark plug. That design engineer now works for Thor.
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Old Yesterday, 05:30 PM   #15
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