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Old 05-26-2020, 03:25 AM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: ACE 30.1
State: Saskatchewan
Posts: 40
THOR #12902
Chassis Disconnect

We have a 2013 Thor ACE 30.1 and we had an issue where the coach disconnect switch quit functioning. We took it in to a RV repair shop in Saskatoon where they replaced the solenoid for that switch and now the chassis disconnect switch is constantly on. When I asked for an explanation they informed me that this motor home only had one solenoid for both switches and that both switches were connected to the same solenoid right from the factory, which was placing too much of a load on the solenoid causing it to burn out. The RV repair shop has unhooked the chassis disconnect switch from the solenoid so now the chassis switch is constantly hot and in essence there is now no disconnect for the chassis.

Has anyone ever experienced any issues with their disconnect switches and does anyone know if there are separate solenoid for the chassis disconnect and the coach disconnect?

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Old 05-26-2020, 09:22 AM   #2
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Model: Sprinter
State: Florida
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THOR #15553
Quote:
Originally Posted by V. H. View Post
Hi:
We have a 2013 Thor ACE 30.1 and we had
an issue where the coach disconnect switch quit functioning. We took it in to a RV repair shop in Saskatoon where they replaced the solenoid for that switch and now the chassis disconnect switch is constantly on. When I asked for an explanation they informed me that this motor home only had one solenoid for both switches and that both switches were connected to the same solenoid right from the factory, which was placing too much of a load on the solenoid causing it to burn out. The RV repair shop has unhooked the chassis disconnect switch from the solenoid so now the chassis switch is constantly hot and in essence there is now no disconnect for the chassis.

Have you ever experienced any issues with your disconnect switches and do you know if you have a separate solenoid for your chassis disconnect and your coach disconnect?
I have never heard of 2 switches for one disconnect. Chassis and house are 2 different systems. Sometimes they are combined for emergency start, but there should be 2 solenoids. You really should not need a chassis solenoid unless something is draining the system. Put a disconnect switch directly on the battery if you feel the need. Any autoparts store or HF. about $7-$10.
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Old 05-26-2020, 02:02 PM   #3
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2013 ACE 30.1
State: Alberta
Posts: 1,379
THOR #2631
Hi I tried a response to your private message but may have screwed it up. Definitely there are two separate latching relays in the BCC (battery control cabinet) which is mounted in the front engine bay, driver side. The BCC is built by RV Custom Products in California and Thor installs it as a "box".....just cables to it (saves labour cost). Repairing it probably is best done by removing the BCC (disconnect batteries; engine, Gen and shore off/disconnected). I am attaching a link to the schematic and descriptives on the BCC (says Hurricane but it applies to many older coaches including 2013 ACE). Also linking to the best You Tube video showing what is inside the BCC. If you are not electrically competent to work on this BCC then I would find another Thor shop (or friend that is knowledgable......and flexible) to check it out. Labour costs might warrant just replacing the BCC completely and re-installing.....but either way would be expensive I am sure. If the previous owner/shop has done no major damage inside the BCC then just replacing the failed chassis latching relay may be a least cost approach (but it's very hard to get at that beast).



https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/hur...ct-120145.html


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Old 05-26-2020, 05:49 PM   #4
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Model: 2011 FW Hurricane 33T
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THOR #16471
Also linking to the best You Tube video showing what is inside the BCC.

I too believe it is a good video. My chassis disc. relay needs to be changed in my Hurricane... It stubbornly decides to not pick up... then it does... then not! I think it is related to cooler mornings. Not looking forward to that job.
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Old 05-26-2020, 09:28 PM   #5
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THOR #2631
As cavie says, a battery disconnect at the chassis battery would be the least costly way to isolate the battery, but if the latching relay inside the BCC is intermittent or failed open, then even with the cheap disconnect in place and closed, you may still have some BCC internal fused coach loads not working. You could bypass the bad latching relay as well, but that probably requires removing the BCC (unless there is an easy jumper solution on the component side of the BCC circuit board.....would be very awkward to install though). If you have to remove the BCC, you might as well fix it (latch relay is under $100; circuit board needs a bank loan probably). After you have the convenience of a chassis and a coach disconnect toggle switch at the door, it is hard to change......until you get the bill for any major cost BCC related repairs.


For folks that rarely boon dock, my best advice to longer life on your latching relay(s) is...... turn it/them on at the start of the season and don’t turn it/them off unless you have no shore power access; you’re not driving down the road; or the gen does not work. This assumes all charging systems are working correctly of course and both chassis and coach batteries are charged together (some coaches do not charge both coach and chassis at the same time).
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Old 05-26-2020, 11:04 PM   #6
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Model: Tuscany 36MQ
State: Washington
Posts: 46
THOR #15174
I have a long and distinguished history of getting bad information from RV dealers. I doubt what they told you is correct.
If I understand what you are saying you are refering to the relay that connects the chassis batts to the coach batts. On the relay on my 14 Tuscany, when the voltage is above 13+ volts on either system the relay locks up. That is too often for me so I installed a switch so I can disable the connection when I choose.
There are manual disconnect switches for each system also.....
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Old 05-27-2020, 02:07 AM   #7
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: ACE 30.1
State: Saskatchewan
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THOR #12902
Hello:
I thought I'd take a moment to chime back in on issue. With some intense Google research we found that a recall in 2012/2013 on Thor ACE motorhomes had occurred (13V-265/2013-217 (Canada) of RV Custom Product FW-2050 Battery Control Center. Following the original recall a technical Service Bulletin Thor BCC 2050 Correction went out to make a correction to the earlier recall.
We believe that this work was completed on the motorhome we now own, but since we are the second owner of this unit, and since this unit spent the first five years of its life in the US, we have been unable to confirm this adjustment took place (we are awaiting a reply from Thor).
At this juncture, we believe that the technician who recently completed some repairs on our RV may have undone the recall work. We are waiting to return to the service center for a follow up. Once that has happened I will send on a recap.
In the meantime, thank you everyone for offering such helpful advise in an attempt to solve our problem.
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Old 05-27-2020, 03:20 AM   #8
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Model: 2011 FW Hurricane 33T
State: England
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THOR #16471
Here is the recall

FW-2050
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Old 05-27-2020, 06:06 PM   #9
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THOR #2631
It is important to make sure this recall was completed (picture of my BCC “post recall” is attached). Note the “chassis switched” terminal has no cable on it and is taped up. The cable that was on chassis switched terminal (which is your engine ignition and starter related battery cable connection) is now moved over to the “Chassis Battery” terminal......which is direct connected to the chassis battery + terminal. So basically your engine is now hard wired connected to the chassis battery (you don’t need to turn on chassis disconnect at the door like a normal pre-recall 2013 ACE would to start the engine).


Note: If the recall was “not done”, if your chassis disconnect latching relay failed open while driving, especially at night, the engine would stop with resulting instant loss of various critical functionalities. Also note that after the recall is completed......the chassis disconnect relay (if it is working OK) in the BCC, still would control various chassis battery fed loads that are fused from inside the BCC (like steps, fog lights if equipped etc).


Since you say the BCC chassis latching relay has been bypassed......everything is on always; it is possible that this RV shop just placed a jumper cable from the "chassis switched" terminal to the "chassis battery terminal". This would hard wire the chassis battery to the engine ignition/starter cable as well as bypass the chassis latch relay inside the BCC. So in that case engine would behave safely ( would be like the recall was done) and all the chassis battery loads fused from inside the BCC would also get chassis battery power all the time. Might be a workable cheap solution to not going inside the BCC at all. So cavie’s battery terminal disconnect solution would kill all chassis battery loads if this "extra jumper" was in place, but you would have to go into the engine bay to switch off/on as required. A cheap solution for disconnecting chassis battery loads and even a failed open chassis disconnect latch relay).....OldWEB, you might try this to bypass that flaky chassis bat latch relay in your BCC? One external BCC jumper; one cheap battery terminal disconnect, unless I missed something......not the first time.



Attaching the RV Custom BCC schematic as well. Note the Chassis Switched BCC terminal is marked “chassis ignition relay” (I think) on the BCC schematic (left side of schematic are the various terminals on the BCC box). Hope this helps.
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Old 06-22-2020, 08:50 PM   #10
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Ohio
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THOR #13130
RV Custom Products Model FW221 Rev B BCC Troubleshooting Video

I posted an in depth BCC troubleshooting video on my YouTube channel. It's an hour long, but covers theory of operation and component level troubleshooting. The schematics are reference as well. Click here to watch it.
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Old 06-26-2020, 05:23 PM   #11
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State: Ohio
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THOR #13130
RV Custom Products Model FW221 Rev B BCC Troubleshooting Video

I wanted to add this link to this thread. It's a sequel to my first video on the 2007 Four Rivers Hurricane equipped with the Model FW221 Rev B RV Custom Products Battery Control Center (BCC). I'm new to the whole forum concept, so please be kind to me if I make stupid forum mistakes.

WARNING! This video is an hour long, but it goes into great depth. I actually had a defective Interconnect Relay, the one that ties both batteries together while charging or when the Emergency Start switch is pressed. This video shows the troubleshooting process in detail - maybe too much detail. I also demonstrate the process of replacing the Interconnect Relay and performing the final verification test.

I hope this further helps my brothers and sisters in the RV community.

Click here to watch the video.

Wayne
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Old 06-26-2020, 10:35 PM   #12
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Model: Tiffin Wayfarer 24 BW
State: New York
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THOR #8860
You could put in a couple of bayonet switches to the the ground wires...
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Old 06-26-2020, 10:39 PM   #13
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cheap fix.

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Old 06-26-2020, 10:53 PM   #14
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Do they make those for bolt-on connections also?
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Old 06-26-2020, 11:40 PM   #15
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Old 06-26-2020, 11:41 PM   #16
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Thanks! Now I can start shopping...
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Old 06-26-2020, 11:41 PM   #17
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yep Attachment 24472
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