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Old 05-06-2022, 01:51 PM   #21
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I know better , but the following instructions are if you were a complete novice:

1) Clean/de-scale/de-rust everything as much as possible - basic paint prep. Wash/scrub off all the crud, then completely dry - the day before painting if possible. Then, I'd use a wire brush, sandpaper and DRY rags to wipe off any dust. Krylon is VERY forgiving!

2) Use painter's tape to mask off labels, decals, cover valves, regulator, etc.

3) Tape newspaper or Amazon boxes (every RV owner has those!) over the large areas. Remember... you're painting UNDER an RV... a little overspray on a frame member is not a disaster!

4) Pick a WARM 75°+ day with little to no wind; OR block with tarps. The paint will "level" much better on a very warm day... but DO NOT paint in direct sun!

Finally, spray a sweeping LIGHT first coat... just enough to see a layer of paint. Keep it LIGHT, not trying to cover in one coat - otherwise you'll have runs and drips. Wait no more than 10-15 minutes, then repeat with a LIGHT sweeping coat. Wait another 15 minutes and apply a final LIGHT coat. Three coats SHOULD cover... but you can add another light "spot" coat if needed. The key is multiple light coats work MUCH better than trying to glob one thick runny coat.

Prep time always takes at least TWICE as long as painting. But the painting will take you less than an hour total.

Caveat: Unless you take countermeasures to protect the bottom of the tank, you're likely going to wind up doing this again in a couple years.

What about using a piece of Coroplast® under the tank area? It's the corrugated plastic material used on the underbelly of travel trailers to protect stuff. It's lightweight, cheap and fairly durable. Figuring out how to attach it might be the biggest challenge though... YouTube videos show people drilling through the frame and using lightweight bolts and large flat washers to hold in place.

Good luck

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Old 05-06-2022, 05:27 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lwmcguir View Post
Tank shops here requires empty removed tanks

Then you pay to have them inspected prior to refilling after you reinstall
I am not worried about my physical tank, I was just wanting it painted (especially the bottom). Tank is incredibly accurate and only 2 1/2 years old. I don't think I have ever purchased more than about 6 gallons of propane at one time. I usually spend $12 - $17 to top it off at 80%; so functionally it is fine. I had read a thread from the Judge and took a look at mine and said wow, I can't do what the Judge did, but what can I do BEFORE I get a $20 How To lecture from the Damn Duck

Quote:
Originally Posted by lwmcguir View Post
Almond, white, or gray is typically LP tank colors

We painted most of them Almond

Rust shows up more on white painted tanks

Your tank definitely had a light coat of paint
I really can't tell what color mine is, it looks Almond at a distance. Manchester said Gray. I took a chip off that look grayish? idk
this is what I think I will use and color.

Krylon Fusion All-In-One Spray Paint, Gloss, Smoke Gray
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Old 05-06-2022, 05:35 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by dkoldman View Post
I am not worried about my physical tank, was just wanting it painted ( especially the bottom). Tank is incredibly accurate and only 2 1/2 years old. I don't think I have ever purchased more than about 6 gallons of propane at on time. I usually spend $12 - $17 to top it off at 80% so functionally it is fine. I just read a thread from the Judge and took a look at mine and say wow, I can't do what the Judge did, but what can I do BEFORE I get a $20 How To lecture from the Damn Duck



I really can't tell what color mine is, it looks Almond at a distance. Manchester said Gray. I took a chip off that look grayish? idk
this is what I think I will use and color.

Krylon Fusion All-In-One Spray Paint, Gloss, Smoke Gray
Our last metal stock trailer received a couple coats of Sikkens Smoke Gray, looked great.
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Old 05-06-2022, 05:48 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad View Post
I know better , but the following instructions are if you were a complete novice:

I don't think I am a compete novice, maybe a mostly inexperienced novice, but not a complete novice

1) Clean/de-scale/de-rust everything as much as possible - basic paint prep. Wash/scrub off all the crud, then completely dry - the day before painting if possible. Then, I'd use a wire brush, sandpaper and DRY rags to wipe off any dust. Krylon is VERY forgiving!

What is your implied distinction between de-scale/de rust versus wire brush, sandpaper? Also is it safe to use a small Dremel tool with sanding attachment on the bottom, or should I only sand by hand? Is there recommended grit?

2) Use painter's tape to mask off labels, decals, cover valves, regulator, etc.
Although I am thinking of only masking off the bottom?

3) Tape newspaper or Amazon boxes (every RV owner has those!) over the large areas. Remember... you're painting UNDER an RV... a little overspray on a frame member is not a disaster! So what you trying to say is that I should not worry about getting overspray on the Underbelly wax job I did last week? I don't know if the Mice and Cat Thieves would agree

4) Pick a WARM 75°+ day with little to no wind; OR block with tarps. The paint will "level" much better on a very warm day... but DO NOT paint in direct sun! My propane tank is in shade 24/7 when parked. It is the snow, ice & salts I have had to deal with to even get here. You should try to get out of Ohio and get to some real harsh weather every now and then. Putting a cover on your RV is Cheating...

Finally, spray a sweeping LIGHT first coat... just enough to see a layer of paint. Keep it LIGHT, not trying to cover in one coat - otherwise you'll have runs and drips. Wait no more than 10-15 minutes, then repeat with a LIGHT sweeping coat. Wait another 15 minutes and apply a final LIGHT coat. Three coats SHOULD cover... but you can add another light "spot" coat if needed. The key is multiple light coats work MUCH better than trying to glob one thick runny coat.

Prep time always takes at least TWICE as long as painting. But the painting will take you less than an hour total.

Caveat: Unless you take countermeasures to protect the bottom of the tank, you're likely going to wind up doing this again in a couple years.

This is another reason why I may just mask off the bottom and only do the bottom? I am just glad to have read the recent threads to even look. This is definitely on my To Do list now.

What about using a piece of Coroplast® under the tank area? It's the corrugated plastic material used on the underbelly of travel trailers to protect stuff. It's lightweight, cheap and fairly durable. Figuring out how to attach it might be the biggest challenge though... YouTube videos show people drilling through the frame and using lightweight bolts and large flat washers to hold in place.

Good luck
Very helpful, I will follow the instructions. I am not worried about trying to physically alter the design to prevent it from rusting; although quite the clever idea. I am just gonna keep driving through ice, grime and salts; and when if/ it needs painting I will know what to do.

Thanks for the information.
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Old 05-06-2022, 11:37 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lwmcguir View Post
Our last metal stock trailer received a couple coats of Sikkens Smoke Gray, looked great.
I took a flaked off chip of the propane tank paint to Lowes. Studied the color sections real hard and even had the paint gal assistant give me her opinion. I decided to go with

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Krylon-FUSI...-12/5001057289

Metallic Satin Nickel

The Gloss Smoked Gray is pretty but a stark contrast to what I have now. I bought two cans and some masking tape; so I am out $23 bucks but now officially all in.
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Old 05-07-2022, 12:28 AM   #26
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Scale... as in the white powder looking stuff sometimes found on weather exposed metals. For all intents in this case, treat same as rust... Ohio scale... Texas rust.

I would sand by hand... Try something like 80-100 grit. It doesn't need to be perfectly rust free... most important is loose stuff and dust. Not doing the Sistine Chapel here

Feathering is your friend... blend the new paint up into the existing... and call it a day.
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Old 05-08-2022, 12:38 AM   #27
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Worse than I thought

Wen I got to scraping the loose peeling paint, it was worse than I thought, I even burst all of the bubbles in areas that otherwise looked ok.
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Old 05-08-2022, 12:48 AM   #28
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Thanks to OP who complained of Rust on Delivery Damage

How does the saying go..."One man's Thor Motor Coach complaint is another man's Treasured fix"

Gosh I love this site. I never would have thought I had rust issues on bottom of my propane tank. As bad as it was, I can't possibly see how that fact could remotely be issue with Dealer or RV Mfg.

So right now, the clock is on the quality and longevity of my Krylon 5X Paint & Primer Spray. Color is Metallic Satin Nickel. Total cost of repair - $23 for all parts from the Blue Store. 6 hrs of labor which for me was about 3.5 hrs of actual work
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Old 05-08-2022, 10:08 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkoldman View Post
Wen I got to scraping the loose peeling paint, it was worse than I thought, I even burst all of the bubbles in areas that otherwise looked ok.
Nice job, looks great
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Old 05-08-2022, 12:27 PM   #30
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Looks like you took care of that issue. Now on to the next one.



Paul
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Old 05-08-2022, 01:29 PM   #31
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How many coats did it take?
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Old 05-08-2022, 02:46 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by lwmcguir View Post
Nice job, looks great
Thanks that means alot from a "Show me State Guy"

Quote:
Originally Posted by paulwadley View Post
Looks like you took care of that issue. Now on to the next one.

Paul
I am very pleased. I moved this up as a priority when I saw the flaking and peeling. As far as I know all of the rusting may have just been exposed in last month or two. I can't wait to monitor how well the Krylon works, but if I have to spray it again in 3 years so be it. I love the color as it blends with the RV/

Next Up: Waxing the RV & Roof

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad View Post
How many coats did it take?
I would guess I applied 5 - 6 layers with 2 cans of spray paint. I tried to spray an area and then come back over it again a minute or two later. But being under the RV, and in tights compartment space I found myself over spraying certain areas causing a few runs. It is not like you can hold the can 10 inches away and spray the entire thing.

The beauty is that when all of this fully cures, if I wanted I could lightly sand few selected areas and lightly spray over the areas to smooth it out. But that is all cosmetic. I have sealed the rust. I am not gonna drive worried about salt or road grime. I wish it was not there, but if it is I gonna keep on truckin
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Old 05-09-2022, 04:33 AM   #33
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How many coats did it take?

Not sure if you can tell the difference, but here are new pictures taken as it is closer to full cure now. It shows that it has smoothed out even more I had applied pretty heavily in areas where it was all rust and again in areas where I had to burst bubbles in the OEM paint that was subject to expose rust next. During this exercise, it was clear the OEM paint was very thin.

I am really pleased. I can easily touch up if I ever need; as I now know exactly what to do.
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Old 05-12-2022, 02:17 AM   #34
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My go-to paint for stuff like this for decades has been Rustoleum Hammered .. I usually have a bunch of black spray cans around the house (they have other colors too but I don't usually bother) ... anything that is rusting I scuff, wire brush, or clean in some way (already plenty of good suggestions on this thread) and hit it ... no primer needed and can go right over rust.

After the first application, touch ups is a breeze as needed.
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Old 05-12-2022, 02:45 AM   #35
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My go-to paint for stuff like this for decades has been Rustoleum Hammered .. I usually have a bunch of black spray cans around the house (they have other colors too but I don't usually bother) ... anything that is rusting I scuff, wire brush, or clean in some way (already plenty of good suggestions on this thread) and hit it ... no primer needed and can go right over rust.

After the first application, touch ups is a breeze as needed.
See Post #12 from Skip500

Skip500 was right... Krylon with the Primer was great. I was going to go with Rustoleum. I did talk with Manchester Tank who highly recommended the primer. You are limited with colors you should use for a propane tank. Black is not one of them. The paint I used was Krylon Primer + Paint with 5 times the adhesion. It was very obvious that Winnebago did not use a Primer; so I was NOT gonna repeat what they did. But mine is done now and it came out wonderful

Just so you know Rustoleum does make a paint with Primer + Paint, but the color selection was awful. I love the Metallic Satin Nickel color I got, and you right; touch up will be a breeze if ever needed. I am keeping an empty can so I remember what I bought.
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Old 05-13-2022, 12:25 AM   #36
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Thanks I searched RV Street and they have a lot of stuff and when I added propane the hits went through the roof and they were not RV Street.

If you happen to see and get a link let me know. I have watched a few but responses and videos are all over the place. Not sure I have had two say the same thing yet.
It was (rust can destroy your rv. Here's how to fix it) All he did was scrape some rust, sand a little and use Permatex rust treatment and paint
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Old 05-13-2022, 03:19 AM   #37
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It was (rust can destroy your rv. Here's how to fix it) All he did was scrape some rust, sand a little and use Permatex rust treatment and paint
Ha... I remember how I use to watch those type of videos BEFORE buying my RV. What type of batteries to buy for RV, what type of oil filter to buy for RV, what type of toilet paper for RV etc.

I wonder how much those people make from those videos? some are actually helpful but for the most part, I can get all I need on the forums.
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Old 05-13-2022, 12:08 PM   #38
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I painted my Wrangler's black plastic fender flares before last travel season. They had turned that milky/chalky white which afflicts all Wranglers of early 2000s vintage.

After LOTS of research, I settled on the Krylon. I fully expected some peeling or cracking.... but after a full year plus, it is still perfect! Looks like factory! And NO fading.

I'm sold on Krylon's paint formulas. I've been very pleased with the results on everything I've used it on!
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Old 05-13-2022, 12:20 PM   #39
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Ha... I remember how I use to watch those type of videos BEFORE buying my RV. What type of batteries to buy for RV, what type of oil filter to buy for RV, what type of toilet paper for RV etc.

I wonder how much those people make from those videos? some are actually helpful but for the most part, I can get all I need on the forums.
Enough, that they don't need to work for a living. Soon there will be so many of them, they will need a job
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Old 05-13-2022, 12:38 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad View Post
I painted my Wrangler's black plastic fender flares before last travel season. They had turned that milky/chalky white which afflicts all Wranglers of early 2000s vintage.

After LOTS of research, I settled on the Krylon. I fully expected some peeling or cracking.... but after a full year plus, it is still perfect! Looks like factory! And NO fading.

I'm sold on Krylon's paint formulas. I've been very pleased with the results on everything I've used it on!
Evidentiary data suggest it might be better than OEM factory. There was no primer paint on my propane tank

When / if the time comes, and if I can find it, I will use Krylon high temp Red/Orange paint on my Catalytic Converter over the Rustoleum I used last year. The Rustoleum changes color with heat over time. I don't think it is good quality high temp spray?

I am really glad I got this done. Nothing like solving problems before having one and being able to use the RV like it is intended. Some folks don't want to use their generators, don't want to drive in areas where salt / grime may be on the road, don't want to poop in toilets, keep their slides in, and now I learning some wish to use portable propane tanks in lieu of the RV's tank.
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