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Old 02-05-2018, 08:07 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Beau388 View Post
First of all the leveler jacks work when the store/use switch is in the store position so we can assume the jacks are powered off the front battery buss (chassis battery only). On my coach, I have to let engine engine run for at least a minute before turning the jack panel on; otherwise, I get the low voltage warning. If the jacks have drifted down, do to several temperature changes, the emergency retract will come on with the low battery warning. The panel must be reset before jacks will operate normally.
Negative! Ghost Rider; The hydraulic motor has its own 100 amp breaker which is independent of the USE/STORE switch.

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Old 03-01-2018, 07:06 PM   #22
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Levelers

Having the same problem on my new 2018 Windsport 29M. I get a low voltage warning when trying to level the MH and the only way I can get the levelers to work is to run the generator. The battery compartment is too small for additional house batteries. Having it checked out next week, but this just isn't right!
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Old 03-01-2018, 08:29 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Beau388 View Post
....If the jacks have drifted down, do to several temperature changes, the emergency retract will come on with the low battery warning. The panel must be reset before jacks will operate normally.
That is interesting. Are you saying that temperature changes affect the hydraulic pressure enough to allow the jacks to drop a bit? Often when I start the engine after storing the RV for a month or so with the jacks up, the panel activates, the hydraulic pump turns on, and I assume the jacks are lifting. Then I have to turn off the panel. I always assumed it was air in the system or a slight leak.

If what you say is happening, then perhaps that's a good thing because it relieves some of the the hydraulic pressure keeping the jacks up, and will therefore be better for the seals than having that high pressure on them for long periods of time.
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Old 04-20-2018, 12:28 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Tfryman View Post
Except the voltage being measured is the DC buss voltage, which, while charging by any means should be above 13.1 VDC regardless of battery condition, unless the batteries were shorted.

But adding more batteries will not affect the leveler problem one way or another.

As I understand it, although the hydraulic pump motor and controller are powered from the house batteries, the control panel (which senses the low voltage condition) is powered from the chassis battery and requires over 12.7 VDC to clear the low voltage condition.




A lot of Lippert's troubleshooting advice is to trace wires for voltage drops. Considering the geniuses that wire these coaches I believe that is where you will find your problem although it may also be a bad control panel.
Where is the levelers control box located on a Hurricane 34J. I have been getting the low voltage error. I have called Lippert and they want to know what the voltage is at the controller. I get the error even when after a trip, I stop, set the parking brake and let the engine run a little longer. I can put it in manual mode and still level the coach, which I have been doing more of lately I have extra batteries installed. If I start the generator or plug into shore power the error goes away. Thanks for the schematic!
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Old 07-06-2019, 01:51 PM   #25
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I have had the low voltage issue since coach was new. The only workaround for me is to either plug the coach into shore power or run the gen before operating the jacks in auto mode. Of course, I always run the engine while operating the jacks. I contacted Lippert and Thor about the issue and that went nowhere. Checked all my connections for secure and voltage, everything was fine. Lippert suggested that I add two additional house batteries but won't do that until the two originals need to be replaced.
Does the gennie running make any difference? I was told the leveler package runs off the engine battery and not the house batteries adn I think the gennie only charges up the house batteries. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 07-06-2019, 01:56 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Beau388 View Post
First of all the leveler jacks work when the store/use switch is in the store position so we can assume the jacks are powered off the front battery buss (chassis battery only). On my coach, I have to let engine engine run for at least a minute before turning the jack panel on; otherwise, I get the low voltage warning. If the jacks have drifted down, do to several temperature changes, the emergency retract will come on with the low battery warning. The panel must be reset before jacks will operate normally.
I have read from many where the "timeout" error can be caused by low voltage. I get the timeout error after the Hurrrican 29M sits for a week or more without a startup on the engine. I was told this might be due to some low voltage since there seems to be no fluid loss and the jacks are fully retracted at startup. Pull off the emergency break, the levelers cycle up and I often get the "timeout" error. I clear it and it's fine. Any help with others and this issue.
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Old 07-06-2019, 02:21 PM   #27
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To avoid the "low voltage" warning, I always run my levelers when I pull into my campsite and while the engine is running. That way all batteries are still charging and the voltage level will stay well above the 13.1 volt threshold that the level controller looks for.

The hydraulic pump that runs the levelers is a big current draw on the batteries so it's common the voltage will dip while the pump runs. Unless you get other errors besides the "low voltage" that can't be cleared, it's not a problem.
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Old 07-06-2019, 02:21 PM   #28
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I have been dealing with erratic operation of the levelers since we bought the RV in 2014. Pump turning on when the engine starts with jacks up, low voltage messages, error messages, leak in one of the jacks, turning on and warning beep when driving that requires the push of the off button, inability to level in some situations, etc. However, after rebuilding one of the jacks the system still works, but still show some erratic operation. A totally trouble prone system.
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Old 07-06-2019, 03:15 PM   #29
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I have been dealing with erratic operation of the levelers since we bought the RV in 2014. Pump turning on when the engine starts with jacks up, low voltage messages, error messages, leak in one of the jacks, turning on and warning beep when driving that requires the push of the off button, inability to level in some situations, etc. However, after rebuilding one of the jacks the system still works, but still show some erratic operation. A totally trouble prone system.
My Jack's always ensure they are up when the engine is started and hand brake is released. Never use auto level anymore. Had trouble with low battery when I had stock batteries, after replacing them the problem went away. I get it momentarily now when I first start the engine but goes away within seconds. Good luck to all of you.
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Old 07-06-2019, 03:24 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Tom N3EQF View Post
To avoid the "low voltage" warning, I always run my levelers when I pull into my campsite and while the engine is running. That way all batteries are still charging and the voltage level will stay well above the 13.1 volt threshold that the level controller looks for.

The hydraulic pump that runs the levelers is a big current draw on the batteries so it's common the voltage will dip while the pump runs. Unless you get other errors besides the "low voltage" that can't be cleared, it's not a problem.
I don't get the low volts error, just the timeout when I start up after a period of time when I haven't run the engine. I was told that sometimes this is a low voltage problem that causes the timeout error.
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Old 07-06-2019, 05:07 PM   #31
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The power for the control panel on the dash comes from the chassis battery through the fuse panel usual located by the drivers left foot. The electric hydraulic pump and control unit are powered from the house battery through the 100 amp circuit breaker in the house battery compartment. This circuit also powers the generator's starter. The system is looking for 13.1 volts or above so the engine must be running and the 2.5 minute delay for the battery interconnect to connect the batteries expired. Alternately, you can start the generator and the charger will supply the necessary 13.1 volts to the house batteries. A lockout will occur if any voltage drops below 10.0 volts during the pump's operation. If the batteries are good then it is basically a cable connectio
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Old 11-15-2020, 11:44 AM   #32
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Reviving an older thread...lots of useful info here. 2017 Windsport 34J:

As we pulled out of the driveway yesterday, multiple electrical items weren't working. My driver/pass fans, the chassis a/c fan was dead and I couldn't adjust my mirrors outside....determined, we departed for a single night stay just 1.5 hrs down the road. I was initially thinking a fuse or relay was bad since it was multiple items.

As we got to our site, I was ready to set the jacks, with the engine running and PB set. I couldn't power the leveller control panel on at all. After some troubleshooting, my wife accidentally turned the ignition key back one notch after shutting the motor off and the control panel powered up. I was able to manually lower the jacks but was getting a low voltage warning (12.3). Is it possible that a dying chassis battery is causing all the confusion?
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Old 11-15-2020, 11:48 AM   #33
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I will add that I just replaced the flooring and in doing so, I pulled both fuse panels off the front firewall to work around. I did some inspecting and couldn't find any loose wires.
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Old 11-15-2020, 04:45 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by jarodag99 View Post
Reviving an older thread...lots of useful info here. 2017 Windsport 34J:

As we pulled out of the driveway yesterday, multiple electrical items weren't working. My driver/pass fans, the chassis a/c fan was dead and I couldn't adjust my mirrors outside....determined, we departed for a single night stay just 1.5 hrs down the road. I was initially thinking a fuse or relay was bad since it was multiple items.

As we got to our site, I was ready to set the jacks, with the engine running and PB set. I couldn't power the leveller control panel on at all. After some troubleshooting, my wife accidentally turned the ignition key back one notch after shutting the motor off and the control panel powered up. I was able to manually lower the jacks but was getting a low voltage warning (12.3). Is it possible that a dying chassis battery is causing all the confusion?
All the things you lost in the front cap are powered by the chassis battery through a 100 amp DC circuit breaker on the frame rail just behind the battery. The cable from the circuit breaker powers the fuse and relay circuit board down by the drivers left foot. The ignition interlock relay is in that circuit board.
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Old 11-15-2020, 07:52 PM   #35
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Thanks for that info...that's extremely helpful. I'm thinking the relay may be going bad possibly. Everything is powered just fine if I turn the key off and continue back into the acc detent. Turn the key forward from the off position and I lose all the same things. I also noticed the odometer is slow to come up in bottom of the display. Any thoughts on that? Again, thanks for the response!!
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Old 11-16-2020, 02:38 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by jarodag99 View Post
Thanks for that info...that's extremely helpful. I'm thinking the relay may be going bad possibly. Everything is powered just fine if I turn the key off and continue back into the acc detent. Turn the key forward from the off position and I lose all the same things. I also noticed the odometer is slow to come up in bottom of the display. Any thoughts on that? Again, thanks for the response!!
Thor MC has a picture breakdown for the front circuit board, or at least they did for my coach. Give Thor MC a call with your VIN and they will probably e-mail you a copy. At least that will highlight the relay. Plant 750 seems to redo the entire electrical system ever few years so so makes sure it is one for your particular coach.
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Old 11-16-2020, 10:37 PM   #37
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Here is where I am now....This panel is powered with 12v no problem. However, the relays circled only get power when the key is turned backwards. The 1a ignition input doesn't seem to be working correctly. Now I'm beginning to think it could be the key solenoid.....Click image for larger version

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