Counter trim repair

[Leupme]

I am looking for a repair person for several areas in the rv where the counter trim is separating. I am not handy and my go to person has retired in our area (Northern Ca, Sonoma County). Willing to travel to Napa, Vallejo, Sacramento if need be. Thanks

[ducksface]

Originally Posted by Leupme

I am looking for a repair person for several areas in the rv where the counter trim is separating. I am not handy and my go to person has retired in our area (Northern Ca, Sonoma County). Willing to travel to Napa, Vallejo, Sacramento if need be. Thanks

Almost without exceptions;
Rv repair requires only a household type handyman.
There is all but nothing on an rv structure that doesn't directly relate to ordinary home repair.

Find any good handyman anywhere.
Ask your neighbors.

There is no need to go to an rv repair guy for common repair of an rv.

A counter trim is a counter trim is a counter trim.

[ghnl]

One of my hobbies is woodworking & cabinet making. Tell us (better yet - show us with a picture) of the area needing repair and we can better advise you how to fix it.

Some counter trim is glued on, some fits into a groove cut in the edge of the counter top. A polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue makes both brown & clear versions) is good for gluing together dissimilar materials (like plastic laminate or metal trim to plywood substrate). An edge molding clamp will easily hold it place while the glue cures.

[Leupme]

Hope this picture helps. I think we could actually do what you describe. By any chance do you have a photo of the clamp you recommend?

Thx
Sarah

[ghnl]

OK, that looks like the rubber? countertop trim also used in our ACE. The ribbed part is supposed to be a snug fit into the groove cut along the edge. But with time the fit becomes less snug (and I suspect the material shrinks a little).

Clean out the groove so there is no loose debris preventing the moulding from seating fully. Originally there was no glue used but I'd suggest adding some to keep it from coming loose again. Clear polyurethane glue would be good and help make it a water resistant bond. Read the directions - the Gorilla glue I have used is moisture cured. Thus you need to slightly dampen one surface (usually the non-absorbent part). I use a spray bottle to mist on some water after applying the glue to the wood. It doesn't need to be soaking wet, just moist.

You might find the moulding fits tight enough to stay in place until the glue dries (~ 12 - 24 hours). If not, some painter's tape (leaves no sticky residue behind) should hold in place.

These are the types of clamps I have to hold trim in place if needed.


Or you could even prop some lengths of wood against the opposite wall or a cabinet to keep the moulding in place until the glue dries.

[ghnl]

P.S. Do not use the 'original Gorilla Glue'. It expands (foams) as it cures. This is good for gap filling but the joint must be firmly clamped so the expansion doesn't push the joint apart. The non-expanding clear polyurethane glue doesn't do that.

[Lt Keefer]

I would suggest a least to most direction. As said, clean out the groove with a small screwdriver or pocket knife. Squirt a small amount of Elmer's glue in the groove. Push the molding back in and secure with some painters tape. Clean up any glue that oozes out with a damp paper towel. If the Elmer's doesn't hold, then progress to a stronger glue, maybe a rubber cement. The new glues work great, but for a beginner, or less handy person, the older stuff is more forgiving.

As the duck said, any handyman from the phone book should be able to work on the box part of your coach.

[10scDust]

Where would you purchase some of this countertop edging?

[ghnl]

Originally Posted by 10scDust

Where would you purchase some of this countertop edging?

I do not know. I searched & searched. I got the name & part number of the laminate used in our ACE. I was able to get some solid 1/2 round edging but not the flexible rubber stuff.

Picture shows the remodeled 'kitchen' in our ACE. I re-used the 1/2 round flexible rubber edging from the original countertop.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Another option is go to a big box home improvement store (Lowe's) and inquire at their kitchen cabinet department. They usually have sub contractors who will do the work. A laminate kitchen countertop should be easy with proper measurements.

[ghnl]

IIRC, I bought a 4X8 sheet of (matching) laminate & 12' of 1/2 round edging from Home Depot. But despite contacting WilsonArt directly, nobody was able to get me the flexible rubber edging.

[BASSMAN]

Do a goggle search on T slot molding, very common for use in Arcade games, I have never seen it in a wood grain finish, most of it is not rubber but Vinyl, it looks like your problem is not the molding, the wood has crumbled and the vinyl has shrunk a bit, I have done this repair by cleaning out all the loose wood and mask off the areas on both sides of the area the molding sets and then fill the slot with some bondo or JB weld and push the molding into place an let the excess filler squeeze out, you will need to hold the molding into place with something wile the filler sets up.

[Mark54]

Originally Posted by Leupme

Hope this picture helps. I think we could actually do what you describe. By any chance do you have a photo of the clamp you recommend?

Thx
Sarah

I would clean out groove and use hotmelt (sparingly) in groove and shove the spline back in. I would NOT use PU glue as others have suggested b/c it is a) water-cured and b) expands and will blow that particle board crap apart.

If your hot melt oozes out, let it cool, and trim w/ razor knife. BAP as we calle it- Best as possible... dealer will NOT know what to do or even what it is called or how to spell it. You do not need much in the groove- try not to overfill.

I'm certified kitchen designer/installer and can tell you that is about the cheesiest way to do a top...

[ducksface]

Unless you need a new hobby;
Make a list of all the little screw Tightening and gluing and cracks.

Call a mobile tech and have him repair your listed items and have him do a thorough investigation of the entire rv.

Make cookies or sandwiches, lemonade, fun talk...you know the drill.

Pay and tip well.

Make a relationship like scubawise has with their tech. They love that guy.

I don't really think you want the hobby of minor rv repair.
The ideas here are helpful but you don't need to do DIY stuff if you dont want to.

[ghnl]

Originally Posted by Mark54

I would clean out groove and use hotmelt (sparingly) in groove and shove the spline back in. I would NOT use PU glue as others have suggested b/c it is a) water-cured and b) expands and will blow that particle board crap apart.

Hot melt would work. And it is usually undoable if you ever need to remove the trim.

Note: as advised, original Gorilla Glue does expand as it cures. Not advised. Clear polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue makes a version) that does not expand as it cures.