Cruise control problem - 2018 F-53 chassis

[sdsstep545]

thank you for that info - I just need to get out and do the test drive.
I just google speed limiter on Ford F53 chassis. Seems you are 100% correct on this. I have seen two numbers mentioned 75mph and 78mph, seems to depend on the year. The pre 2000 years seem to not be limited. People talk of being over 100mph. that is scary.
My normal speed is about 60-65mph. but I know when I tripped it - I was trying to catch up to my brother in law.

[16ACE27]

I travel at 63 to 67 mph. Sometimes I get behind someone who is going slower and I pass them. Not unusual for me to hit the speed limiter while passing, BUT, although it kicks off the CC, I can resume it as soon as I'm below the limiter speed. So it's not a "one and done" thing.

[sdsstep545]

thanks for the info on that CC kick out, but coming back on. I am hoping it was all the grease in the connector. When I cleaned it and took it apart, after I reconnected it, the lights lit up on the steering wheel. I don't remember them ever working. So I am hopeful it was the cause. My next trip is in July, So I will update notes again at that time.


I am still trying to find some diags or test info for FORscan that lets me monitor the actual pressing of the cruise buttons as seen from the ECU.


If anyone knows how to do this, please respond to this posting.
Thanks,
Scott

[sdsstep545]

Ok,
Today I think with the help of my son and several hours of testing and probing we found the problem. We used the FORscan tool on a windows computer to see the P0581 error and reset it. No DTC light comes on in the dash for this Error. My regular scan tool could not see the code. Turns out after lots of intermittent code/ no code showing, we traced it to the Switches in the steering wheel. Part number - 5c3t-9e740-aew. But when we tested at end of clockspring we were getting no continuity this time - should be 4.2k ohms. finally we had somewhere to go. We opened up the steering by removing the horn assembley. now when we checked the end of the clock spring we had the right 4.2k ohms. yep it was working again. So now we know it is some kind of intermittent connection. This code once set, has to be reset with a scan tool.
The code also only shows up once the engine is started, run position will not trigger it.

So now we reconnected the end of the clockspring wiring connector to the chassis wiring again. started the RV and no code. so now we wiggled wiring around where the horn was and then rechecked for code - yep code was back. so we disconnected the connector for the switches under the horn and probed there. we had the right ohms again. so we reconnected it and cleared the code. stop/restart - no code. started gently moving wiring around - yep - code back. So we removed switches and wiring from steering wheel. we checked the two pins from the top of the clock spring - male side to the connector coming out from steering column to chassis - moved all over never got a flicker - solid wiring - clock spring good. so back to the switch pack - we bench tested it worked perfectly too - huh? put it all back together. no code started RV - no code - started touching wiring and code is back. now I'm thinking something with the connector itself? so now we connected at bottom of clockspring monitoring ohms with meter. started gently poking at wiring - yep - intermittent readings.
Turns out the female side of this connector, the female pins themselves were smashed open - only saw this after pulling pins out of connector- we replaced the two bad female pins and reassembled for the umpteenth time. cleared the code and then started playing with the wiring again while the engine ran. no code. I then banged the steering wheel around quite viciously - still no code.
I think we fixed it - but test drive is now in order when gas prices hopefully come down -5.79 a gallon here, or or next trip in about a month.

I hope this helps others from loosing their marbles like I was.

I will update after the test drive.
-Scott

[16ACE27]

Way to stay after it Scott. Thanks for the update.

[sdsstep545]

Update:
I thought I should make some notes about FORscan tool.
When p0581 was set in ECU -
SCCS pid - was saying "not supported"
SCCS (v) pid was at 4.99v and did not change.
So it appears the ECU with error code set, turns off support for the cruise control so it does NOT register as option in ECU at all (SCCS).
The ECU needs to see 4.3k ohms from the cruise button module, if it is open circuit, then it sets P0581.

With repair:
SCCS - shows - "not pressed" - and each button now shows on screen what it is: - on, off , resume, coast, and set
SCCS (v) shows 4.6 volts(no buttons pressed) and changes with every button press to corresponding voltage.

SCCS (v) Off button (0.13v)
SCCS (v) ON button (4.33v)
SCCS (v) RESUME button (3.87v)
SCCS (v) SET/ACCEL (3.26v)
SCCS (v) COAST (2.42v)
If I find a schematic or wiring diagram for this circuit I will post it here as I could not find it anywhere for this year (2018) F53 stripped chassis.
-Scott

[Sappy2]

Loose connection or clock spring. Age does not matter if it was not assembled correctly. There is a connection under column you might want to investigate. Also, the brake lamp may the triggering it, see how sensitive pedal movement is to lighting up the brake lamps.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Sappy2

Loose connection or clock spring. Age does not matter if it was not assembled correctly. There is a connection under column you might want to investigate. Also, the brake lamp may the triggering it, see how sensitive pedal movement is to lighting up the brake lamps.

Did you read the thread? He tracked down, found the problem, resolved it, and reported back on the issues. Guesses are no longer required.

[Bill Johnson]

What are some of the common causes of the code? Causes for this P0581 code may include: Multi-function/Cruise control switch defective (i.e. stuck, broken, missing, etc.) Wring problem (e.g. chafing on steering column/dash parts, water intrusion, corrosion etc.) Connector malfunction (e.g. corroded pins, broken plastic tabs, swollen connector body, etc.) Fluids/dirt/grime in cruise control button/switch causing abnormal mechanical operation ECM issue (e.g. water intrusion in computer body, internal short, internal overheating, etc.) What are some P0581 troubleshooting steps? Basic Step #1 Once your vehicle's Multi-function/Cruise control switch is located, visually inspect it for any kind of contamination. It is very easy for plastic buttons/switches to get dirty/greasy/sticky causing them to malfunction and/or operate abnormally. Make sure that the mechanical operation of the switch is seamless and smooth. Any problem here should be addressed immediately. If your particular scan tool/OBD reader has the capabilities, feel free to observe the electronic operation of the switch through DATA STREAM (the mode name here varies between readers but the important part is to find a mode to observe data real-time). TIP: Be sure to avoid spraying any cleaning solutions directly to the button. Lightly dampen a clean rag with either water, soap & water, dash cleaner, etc. and carefully remove the debris from the switch's crevices. An air powered blow gun will aid in removing debris without worsening the situation. Basic Step #2 To access the connectors and harnesses involved within the cruise control/multi-function switch input circuit, you may need to remove some dash plastic/shrouds. Be delicate whenever working with plastic. comfortable room temperatures always help with the ease of dash/interior plastic disassembly/assembly. If you can easily access the connector, you may be able to apply specific troubleshooting steps provided by your service manual. Switch testing will most likely involve recording electrical values using your multimeter. This may include operating the switch while recording and/or static testing. Refer to the specific make and model's service manual for "diagnostic flow chart"

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0581
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[sdsstep545]

Problem has definitely been resolved. took weekend trip to state park 2-1/2 hours away. I used the cruise control most of the way there and then back to home. no issues. worked perfectly as it is supposed to.

Thanks to all who threw ideas my way thru this very frustrating intermittent issue.
Thanks,
Scott