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Old 09-24-2020, 02:20 AM   #21
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Awesome. Nice to have so much info!

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Old 09-26-2020, 06:20 PM   #22
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eternabond tape is too good. Don't use it around vents or anything else you may need to replace later. (speaking from experience) The 4 inch is good to use across the front & rear transitions. You cna go over top of the exiting dicor if you have clear areas on either side for it to stick to. never use flex seal on an RV roof. Dicor only.
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Old 09-26-2020, 06:57 PM   #23
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Agree. I used it a year ago (the spray) flex seal had an awesome bond, a bit of yellowing as I used the clear, but awesome bond! It’s permanent though! That still is never coming off!
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Old 09-26-2020, 06:58 PM   #24
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Don't mean to highjack this thread but Flex Seal will never touch my roof however, being in the Florida sun, where my slide out awnings are continiously exposed to the sun while closed started to deteriate. I cleaned them real good and then sprayed the area with white Flex Seal. That was over a year ago and frankly I'm quite impressed, they seem to be holding up very well. Has anyone else tried this or what was your repair (other than replacing?)

Eterna bond on roof cuts, tears with the edges sealed with Dicor. Eterna bond tape on seams only if old cracked Dicor is removed first as much as possible then apply Eterna bond tape and dicor seals edges. No expert just my 2 cents worth. Good luck
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Old 09-27-2020, 01:41 AM   #25
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Dicor is a good product for what it is. The problem with Dicor is.... you have to keep a couple tubes on hand because there will be continued cracking, shrinking, etc. requiring routine maintenance.

I’m all about eliminating roof leaks permanently and eliminating continued maintenance. Dicor requires inspection and a reallocation every 3 to 6 months depending on environment conditions.

Place EternaBond Tape over the seams, joints, etc. once and forget it.

And keep a roll with you in the road. If a roof leak develops due to storm damage, low hanging tree branch, etc. just apply EternaBond to the rip, rear or crack once and continue to enjoy your trip without worrying about water damage. [emoji106]

Never after five years did I have Dicor shrink or loose its bond. Start to show some cracks on the surface, yes. I use a plastic tool to remove it and reapply. To reseal the tube, I use two freezer bag corners and a tight rubber band. A year later I can still open it, clear the tube opening and continue to use the tube. A year and a half, not so much.

EternaBond tape is great for tree limb rips. Don't ask me why I know! It can be removed by heating it with a heat gun and very gently prodding with a plastic tool. Do not ever try to pull it off of your EDPM roof material will debond from the under layment and permanently stretch it. If you have a fifth wheel it can be used to seal the end caps to the roof. I am not a fan of using it on the sides, but that is just personal preference.
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Old 09-27-2020, 02:42 AM   #26
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Not flex seal.
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Old 09-27-2020, 10:35 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by MLP View Post
Never after five years did I have Dicor shrink or loose its bond. Start to show some cracks on the surface, yes. I use a plastic tool to remove it and reapply. To reseal the tube, I use two freezer bag corners and a tight rubber band. A year later I can still open it, clear the tube opening and continue to use the tube. A year and a half, not so much.

EternaBond tape is great for tree limb rips. Don't ask me why I know! It can be removed by heating it with a heat gun and very gently prodding with a plastic tool. Do not ever try to pull it off of your EDPM roof material will debond from the under layment and permanently stretch it. If you have a fifth wheel it can be used to seal the end caps to the roof. I am not a fan of using it on the sides, but that is just personal preference.
I have seen Dicor shrink and expose screw heads. A good place for leaks to start. That's why I Eternabond over them.

If it is a hot and sunny day, then the Eternabond can come up fairly easily. Otherwise a hair dryer does the job.
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Old 09-27-2020, 01:05 PM   #28
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Yeah, I've seen this thread before and see how others blast Flex Seal. I used it and so far it has been great! Self-leveling, a tight bond, covers nicely, easy to use and the finished job looks super! Yeah, the ads on TV are a bit much, BUT it works!
Jes' my two-bits...
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Old 09-27-2020, 02:58 PM   #29
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Never use Flex Seal.

I would like to know why Never use Flex Seal, I had a leak for 3 1/2 years and found an access panel in my wheel well that was not sealed and some of the joints were not also.
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Old 09-27-2020, 05:36 PM   #30
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Fiberglass Roof Protection

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Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
DiCor is made for just this sort of thing...
Welcome to the Forum also!
While we are on the subject of roof sealing, can anyone provide some guidance on using 303 ultraviolet ray protection?

1. Is 303 OK to use on fiberglass RV roofs?

2. How do you clean and prep the roof before applying 303?
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Old 09-28-2020, 02:58 PM   #31
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I have a silly question about roof and leaks, I have just purchased a 2001 Four Winds anthe 2 screws that hold the ladder come off so I can see the wood underneath. It has been pouring rain here for few days. How can I be sure that no water got in the roof and how can I be sure that it's dry?
Got the sealing tape that I am going to use this week and make it perfectly waterproof!
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Old 09-28-2020, 03:25 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by DorianColling View Post
I have a silly question about roof and leaks, I have just purchased a 2001 Four Winds anthe 2 screws that hold the ladder come off so I can see the wood underneath. It has been pouring rain here for few days. How can I be sure that no water got in the roof and how can I be sure that it's dry?
Got the sealing tape that I am going to use this week and make it perfectly waterproof!
This is the challenge with water leaks. Where water intrusion or damage because visible isn't always at the entry point and why it can be so difficult to find where leaks originate. Water can enter in one location and run along supports, wiring, etc. and show up somewhere you least expect. Ask people who have had light fixtures full of water.

Make no mistake.... if you can see wood, water is entering the coach. Without diligent investigation, the damage will have begun by the time it becomes easily visible.

Get it sealed up ASAP and then see if you can see where the water is going and if there is an opportunity to open things up to dry out.
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Old 09-28-2020, 04:04 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by telcoman View Post
eternabond tape is too good. Don't use it around vents or anything else you may need to replace later. (speaking from experience) The 4 inch is good to use across the front & rear transitions. You cna go over top of the exiting dicor if you have clear areas on either side for it to stick to. never use flex seal on an RV roof. Dicor only.
Plus 1 here.

Sealed everything on the roof last year with Eternabond tape. Just had to replace bath vent fan Damn, it was tough getting past the tape but doable with patience.
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Old 09-28-2020, 04:16 PM   #34
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Perhaps EternaBond isn't the best choice around components that might need replacing or servicing...
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Old 09-28-2020, 04:23 PM   #35
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Perhaps EternaBond isn't the best choice around components that might need replacing or servicing...
I used a razor knife to gently cut through the tape into the decor underneath. Then a putty knife to scrape the decor until I could see the screws, removed the screws and pried the fan out. Put in the new fan and then new eternabond tape to seal it.

I have no fear of future leaks. It wan't that difficult but you just need to be careful with the razor so you don't cut more than you intend.
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Old 09-28-2020, 04:36 PM   #36
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That razor-work is exactly where I'd find myself in a bunch of trouble...
Glad that it worked out how you had it planned!
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