Dino or Synthetic?

[Lt Keefer]

What ever the owners manual says to use.

[Bob Denman]

Damn... My little Smart Car needs either Mercedes oil... or Mobil 1.

[streamintrip]

I use Triax 10W30 CK-4 full synthetic in the Cummins L9 and genset, both of which are approved by Cummins. Since I change my own oils/filters, I do so annually and send samples to Blackstone Labs to monitor for potential issues.

[BTROCKY]

Synthetics for the engine for many years and no problems.
Non -synthetic in the generator but going to switch to synthetic next time around.
The thing that appeals to me is that synthetics stand up to high temps much better than non.

[dkoldman]

I use Chevron Delo https://www.walmart.com/ip/Chevron-D...B&gclsrc=aw.ds for everything in my RV. Engine to Generator. It meets all specifications for all mfgs of any Car, Truck, RV or Genset I know or would own.

It is readily available at any Wal Mart. Does not get any simpler than that.

I will cover any bet that says I will have any issues with this oil over the next 20 years; although I likely only need to go 6 more years on this RV

Note: There are other oils that can be just as good and do the exact same thing, if you tell me that oil and if it is cheaper and widely available, I will switch today. (Wal Mart's Super Tech is excluded because I like the no blurp blurp pour with Delo; not to mention the branding & packaging )

[MLP]

For the most part for diesel engines the non synthetic oil is best because it has much better lap shear properties than synthetic oil. Synthetic oil is generally better for gasoline powered engines.

Delo 400LE 15W40 has a lap shear of 73520 psi far above the best synthetic.
Mobil Devac 1300 15W40 has a lap shear of 73300 psi

Lap shear comes into play under extreme stress. Diesel engines have much more mechanical stresses than gas engines due to the torque generated by them. So I do not use synthetic oil in diesel engines.

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by MJC62

Ok lads and lasses which are you using, dinosaur oil or synthetic, in your MH and the genny.
I had always shied away from synthetics, my reasoning back when Mobil 1 first hit the scene there were horror stories ( mostly unsubstantiated) told around the coffee machine at the Chrysler dealer where I worked of synthetic oil causing engines to leak like a sieve. Logic was synthetics were so much lighter than Dino oil they would pour through the gaskets. In the mid 70's there may even been some truth to those rumors. Fast forward from mid 70's to today and I still am on the fence on synthetics being better than natural crudes. So my question what are you all using in the engine these days?

I have been using Mobil 1 since it came out. Mobil 1 doesn't expand or shrink gaskets it reacts the same as conventional motor oil. It can be used from day one. All the old wives tales are not true. I have used it in every car and truck I've owned. When I bought my Gold Wing in 1986 I called Honda and they told me to use Honda oil, I gave them the specs for Mobil 1 and he told me it was better than any oil they had. Honda said to use it as long as the clutches don't slip. It's still in the bike today. It does everything better than regular motor oil. Using a blended oil is only as good as the crappy oil that is mixed with the synthetic oil. My 1983 snowblower and my 98 lawn tractor still run great and use no oil between changes

[Bob Denman]

The wrong oil can really screw up a wer clutch...
What year 'Wing do you have?

[cgeace29.3]

Since I changed to synthetic oil in my 2016 ace 29.3 I get 1 extra mpg.
Instead of 9 mpg I get a little over 10 MPG with Either Valvaoline or Mobil 1. I drive at 2,ooo rpm or 65 mph.

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by Bob Denman

The wrong oil can really screw up a wer clutch...
What year 'Wing do you have?

1986 bought it new

[Bob Denman]

Originally Posted by Bill Johnson

1986 bought it new

A 1200...
I had an 1100 Interstate; from 1983.

[jgwmjw2]

I have used synthetic lubricants since the mid-1970s in everything from farm tractors to cars to lawn equipment to motorhomes. After more than 40 years of experience, the superiority of synthetic lubricants is indisputable. The case is settled.

[Muggs]

No doubt synthetics are better vs wear and show improvements on a dyno. This really is no dispute. There are applications where is overkill or other considerations such as clutches and traction drives. Once again additive packages are an essential part.

I run a mix of Dex 6 and Type F in racecar trans. The Dex 6 gives heat resistance and lubrication, the type F is a filler and helps clutch grab. I had tried full syn in past and it seemed to lack solid feel at shift so I stick with mix.

Interesting note, Walmart had no conventional oils other than 15W40 diesel this trip. All were full syn. I put high mileage full syn in SUV for 1st time in years. Since it only gets used as truck and car trailer mover, it gets change at 12 months.

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by Muggs

No doubt synthetics are better vs wear and show improvements on a dyno. This really is no dispute. There are applications where is overkill or other considerations such as clutches and traction drives. Once again additive packages are an essential part.



I run a mix of Dex 6 and Type F in racecar trans. The Dex 6 gives heat resistance and lubrication, the type F is a filler and helps clutch grab. I had tried full syn in past and it seemed to lack solid feel at shift so I stick with mix.



Interesting note, Walmart had no conventional oils other than 15W40 diesel this trip. All were full syn. I put high mileage full syn in SUV for 1st time in years. Since it only gets used as truck and car trailer mover, it gets change at 12 months.

That’s interesting. My local Walmart has about an equal mix of conventional and synthetic. But synthetic is nearly always “on sale” for nearly the same price as conventional. Mobil 1 and Castrol full synthetic are both $29.95 for 5 qts and including an STP filter though more often it’s a Bosch or Mobil 1 filter.

[Muggs]

Bob and cycle guys... Back when running dragbikes (kawasaki. H1 -H2), we used Type F atf in 70's per Barnett clutch. Later in 80's, we used Mobil 1. Modern day our ATVs all had intergrated sump with synthetics.

[Ifish]

We tested every type oil available at Cummins tech center.
Cummins marketed their premium blue which can be purchased on sale at Rural King for $12-13 a gallon. In todays world, if the oil meets the manufacturers specs, it is safe to use and will not void warranty.

I personally use full synthetic wherever possible. My diesels get oil pressure faster in the winter with synthetics. Other than that it is all about the additive package.

Clean oil and filter with the correct additives is probably more important than molecule size for most applications.

[Bob Denman]

Originally Posted by Muggs

Bob and cycle guys... Back when running dragbikes (kawasaki. H1 -H2), we used Type F atf in 70's per Barnett clutch. Later in 80's, we used Mobil 1. Modern day our ATVs all had intergrated sump with synthetics.

You raced the H1 and H2?
Dude...
The 500 actually had the more explosive PowerBar.
It seemed as if you,went from, "Ho-hum"; to "HOLEY CRAP!" Within about a 100 rpm tick of the tach...
My buddy had an Egli-bodied H2 with Dencos hanging out back. When that thng climbed up onto those pipes: it was glorious.

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by Bob Denman

A 1200...
I had an 1100 Interstate; from 1983.

I love it it's an aspencade. The only thing I've done to it is basic maintenance, oil, filter, plugs, hoses and other things. It's nice being able to push a button to adjust the suspension. It's never been over 114 because I had to stop for a red light one day. They say it will do around 150.

[Bob Denman]

That 1200 was a real improvement over the earlier versions.

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by Bob Denman

That 1200 was a real improvement over the earlier versions.

It's so smooth and quiet after a long ride I'm not even tired