Electrical Boom, Need Help Diagnosing ('96 Hurricane)

[NateHTP]

Originally Posted by TurnerFam

If an electrician is not EXPLICITLY asked to wire for a 30 amp 120v 'RV' outlet, then the customer who requests it might just as well be 'at fault', even if they don't really 'understand' the difference, at least until they plug their RV into it.

I may have not been clear in my original post, but we were there, on site, during the electrician's install of this outlet and were extremely clear about 120 30amp with the lead electrician. It appears he didn't manage his team correctly.

[NateHTP]

Originally Posted by cavie

There are Three places to check. One is an inline 12 volt fuse/breaker within 6' of the batteries. The other is two 34/40 amp reverse polarity fuses on the converter. The third is the 15 amp 120 volt breaker in the main breaker panel. Turn it off. DISCONNECT the 12 volt out put leads of the converter. Turn on the 15 amp breaker. Check the input voltage at the converter. 120 volts AC. Check the output voltage of the converter. 12 volts DC.

Check the battery voltage at the battery leads you disconnected.

I've been on travel, so this is my task for today as my house batteries are still not charging.

Thank you, Cavie, for this great plan of attack. I'm going to start working on it right now. The converter is really hard to get to (under my heavy mattress) but I will get there and take pictures, etc.

[NateHTP]

Looks like I have a blown converter.

I have 120 at the plug-in for the power converter under my bed.

I get only 12.00v at the output of the power converter, whether plugged in or not. There is no "on" light or fuse on this power converter, apparently, so there's nothing obvious (I wish it were just a blown fuse) - so without a fuse it's reasonable to think that 240 got to this thing and fried it, correct?

This is my power converter model's manual, seems clear to me it's wired in pattern "C" and there's no fuse in that diagram.

https://stevenschwarz.files.wordpres..._alpenlite.pdf

[16ACE27]

Any fuses would be on the fuse panel (like the reverse polarity fuses) so if you're measuring the output directly at the converter and it's only reading battery voltage than I would agree your converter is a victim of the negligent electrician. Check you fridge and water heater heating elements as well. They may also be victims.

[NateHTP]

I'm thinking of getting one of these: https://www.amazon.com/PowerMax-PM3-...dp/B00F8MC45E/

Anyone have an opinion on which one is a better idea re: amps?
It's a 30am RV.
I will be adding a few more house batteries but also solar panels so...

[NateHTP]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Any fuses would be on the fuse panel (like the reverse polarity fuses) so if you're measuring the output directly at the converter and it's only reading battery voltage than I would agree your converter is a victim of the negligent electrician. Check you fridge and water heater heating elements as well. They may also be victims.

Thank you for the reply.
My fridge thankfully is working great.
My water heater... I know where it is and how to flick the switch and turn it on, but I haven't used it yet as I've only owned this RV for a month so we're winterized with no water in system. Is there a good way to check this without water?

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by NateHTP

I'm thinking of getting one of these: https://www.amazon.com/PowerMax-PM3-...dp/B00F8MC45E/

Anyone have an opinion on which one is a better idea re: amps?
It's a 30am RV.
I will be adding a few more house batteries but also solar panels so...

The "30 Amp" applies to your AC side. The "100 Amp" for that converter is DC amps which would only take 10 of your 30 AC Amps to provide.

Your water heater may not have an AC element if you have only one switch (unless it's a Suburban with the switch outside behind the cover) and with it winterized the only way to test it is to do a continuity test of the heating element itself. If you turn the element on without water in the tank it will certainly go bad.

[NateHTP]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

The "30 Amp" applies to your AC side. The "100 Amp" for that converter is DC amps which would only take 10 of your 30 AC Amps to provide.

Thanks again for the very helpful reply. It will of course only take those 10 while charging, once it has they topped I'll have all 30 back, right?

Is the decision re: how many amps to buy simply "$ vs. how long you're willing to wait to charge your house batteries?"

Another question which is a mixture of the two above: If I pull in, plug in, and I'm using a 100a converter on my empty house batteries, using 10a, then I run a hairdryer and microwave and a bunch of heaters, easily using more then 20a, will the converter back off and use less? Or will I blow some fuses bc everything is hungry?

Still learning electricity, appreciate working with a newb here.

[NateHTP]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Your water heater may not have an AC element if you have only one switch (unless it's a Suburban with the switch outside behind the cover) and with it winterized the only way to test it is to do a continuity test of the heating element itself. If you turn the element on without water in the tank it will certainly go bad.

Yeah, so you're saying it's probably a DC water heater then? If so, then got it. I'll have to wait till I can get south

[jtyphoid]

Originally Posted by NateHTP

Yeah, so you're saying it's probably a DC water heater then? If so, then got it. I'll have to wait till I can get south

Conventional RV water heaters need DC for the control board and use propane to heat the water. Some also have a 120V AC heating element that can be used instead of or in addition to propane. The combination of AC and propane allows for faster heating.

[NateHTP]

Originally Posted by jtyphoid

Conventional RV water heaters need DC for the control board and use propane to heat the water. Some also have a 120V AC heating element that can be used instead of or in addition to propane. The combination of AC and propane allows for faster heating.

Thanks for explaining. Learning something new everyday!

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by NateHTP

Thanks again for the very helpful reply. It will of course only take those 10 while charging, once it has they topped I'll have all 30 back, right? YES

Is the decision re: how many amps to buy simply "$ vs. how long you're willing to wait to charge your house batteries?" YES

Another question which is a mixture of the two above: If I pull in, plug in, and I'm using a 100a converter on my empty house batteries, using 10a, then I run a hairdryer and microwave and a bunch of heaters, easily using more then 20a, will the converter back off and use less? Or will I blow some fuses bc everything is hungry?

Still learning electricity, appreciate working with a newb here.

The Converter will only use all 10 AC amps (100 DC Amps) when the batteries are very low. As they charge up the charging current will decrease.

BUT if you overload your 30 Amp AC supply with any combination of loads then the AC breaker at the pole will trip. In an RV, AC generally uses breakers, DC generally uses fuses (although there are some DC stand-alone breakers in your RV either near the house batteries or under the hood near the chassis battery).

[NateHTP]

Got it, thanks!

I just picked up this, as it seems to have the best reviews and be worth the extra money: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GASX9O

Will install it Monday and report back.

In the meantime, I have house batteries on 10a smart charger to keep them happy.

[simidrm]

Originally Posted by jtyphoid

I may have missed it, but did the electrician install the entire circuit, from breaker to proper 120V 30A TT-30R recepticle? If so, then I would put the responsibility on the electrician for not taking a moment to research the TT-30R to figure out how to wire it up properly. I consider that to be part of his/her job.

I agree and not only that the electrician should have asked what the outlet was being used for.