Permanent pressure regulator

[nsraja]

I have access to fresh water tank drain valve through an access panel in the rear storage area and I could see flexible cable (like we see around kitchen/bath sinks) connecting to pex tubing. I would like to install a permanent pressure regulator so I dont have to deal with the awkward pressure regulator when connecting to city water. I have one that has a guage but is preset to deliver ~40 psi water. Anyone see a problem with such approach?

[Mark54]

Originally Posted by nsraja

I have access to fresh water tank drain valve through an access panel in the rear storage area and I could see flexible cable (like we see around kitchen/bath sinks) connecting to pex tubing. I would like to install a permanent pressure regulator so I dont have to deal with the awkward pressure regulator when connecting to city water. I have one that has a guage but is preset to deliver ~40 psi water. Anyone see a problem with such approach?

I don't see any issue with that- makes too much sense for Thor to have thought of it. The Tellaro/Sequence have one inside but is for the Truma after the water pump.

It would be pretty easy to plumb one in just downline of the city water valve. Use swivel fittings so you can change it if it goes bad. I might follow your lead on this one too!


Preliminary search turns up only ones with GHT threads- so would need to adapt to GHT-Swivel or GHT to 1/2" pex crimp, or combination therof...

[Chateau_Nomad]

I like it. For overkill I'd pressure-proof all plumbing between the shore connection and regulator... 100# plus using rigid PEX and solid crimps.

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

Originally Posted by nsraja

I have access to fresh water tank drain valve through an access panel in the rear storage area and I could see flexible cable (like we see around kitchen/bath sinks) connecting to pex tubing. I would like to install a permanent pressure regulator so I dont have to deal with the awkward pressure regulator when connecting to city water. I have one that has a guage but is preset to deliver ~40 psi water. Anyone see a problem with such approach?

Having the regulator installed permanently would also help to prevent forgetting to take the regulator off the hydrant. Been there, done that, don't want to do it again.

In my case I can just hook it in just before the built in filter / softener setup I added to my coach. Thank you for putting that idea into my head the next time I need to hook up I will put the regulator on the input side of the filter bank.

[nsraja]

Thanks everyone! I will get busy with it and let you know how it goes.

I like your softener setup Dan, I dont think I will go that far, space is an issue for me. We have king bed in our 29ft class C but storage is a premium.

[macdaddy1111]

I was going to put an inline regulator until I started using solid core filters that keep my pressure under 55 psi

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

Originally Posted by nsraja

Thanks everyone! I will get busy with it and let you know how it goes.

I like your softener setup Dan, I dont think I will go that far, space is an issue for me. We have king bed in our 29ft class C but storage is a premium.

If you want a filter / softener system you could get a free standing two or three filter set like this:

https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/w...ersal-mounting

Then couple it with an 8000-grain softener, the one in my RV is a 16000-grain unit. Then you could carry the filter and softener in your TOAD.

[The Gritz Carlton]

My only issue would be the drama if it malfunctioned. How easy would it be to quickly remove it at night in a campground? I just leave the regulator attached to the water hose. You've got to attach it anyway...its no more work...one connection and done.

[powerboatr]

i have a WATTS whole house regulator its adjustable and easy to access as its attached to the water inlet side of the wet bay and a i put a pressure gauge on it,

its been in service since 2009

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

Originally Posted by Dan-sr@perra-us.net

Having the regulator installed permanently would also help to prevent forgetting to take the regulator off the hydrant. Been there, done that, don't want to do it again.

In my case I can just hook it in just before the built in filter / softener setup I added to my coach. Thank you for putting that idea into my head the next time I need to hook up I will put the regulator on the input side of the filter bank.

Here is my set up with the regulator added in.

[nsraja]

Wow already!

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

Originally Posted by nsraja

Wow already!

I already had everything to do it. All I needed to do is to hook it up in the new configuration.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by The Gritz Carlton

My only issue would be the drama if it malfunctioned. How easy would it be to quickly remove it at night in a campground? I just leave the regulator attached to the water hose. You've got to attach it anyway...its no more work...one connection and done.

Fill the FW tank and use the pump - redundant systems.

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Fill the FW tank and use the pump - redundant systems.

SOP.

When you leave the coach for a day trip, turn off the city water and water pump.

When you turn in for the night, turn off the city water and water pump. Here I turn the city water off after I am done with evening activities like dish washing and showering. The I turn the water pump off when I turn in.

I seldom hook up city water while traveling. Actually, I only hook up the city water when I will be camped long enough that I would run out of fresh water or if I am low on fresh water or need to dump. When I do hook up, I will typically just fill the tank enough so that I do not need to have the city water on unless I am doing something requiring a more constant flow of water, like showering or washing dishes.

[nsraja]

As some of you have mentioned, the pump offers better (and controlled) water pressure than direct city water connection with the darn pressure regulator. I attempted to add a pressure regulator inline behind the city water connection port and noticed the reducer (that turns 3/4 port to 1/2 inch pipe connector) has a hole that is about the same size of fixed pressure regulator. No matter what pressure regulator you use, unless it is adjustable, it is just proportionate, meaning it will convert 100 psi to 40 psi, I am going to assume if you connected to 150 psi, it will be much higher than 40 psi (again unless it is adjustable and you need to open pressure from zero just to be sure).

So my take is the reducer already has a pressure regulator built in, Thor does not tell you that. I continued to use a pressure regulator but every one in my family complained the shower pressure was low and then using the water pump gives the best outcome. I think Dan and one other person recommended some solution like that. I am going to stick to it and abandon the inline permanent pressure regulator project. Basically just fill the fresh water tank and use the water pump. Change the water pump when it goes bad.

Oh well, I stepped on the OBD II port when stepping on the parking brake (I had a OBD2 reader connected at that time, it was protruding and I mistook it for parking brake, argh!!!!) and I snapped it. That killed every button on the steering wheel, instrument cluster is dead, no high beam, no turn signal, no wiper, no cruise control, no gas guage, no oil pressure guage, no temp guage, no speedometer, no rpm... I barely made it back from San Antonio. Fixing it is going to be my next project. I will post a separate thread.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by nsraja

As some of you have mentioned, the pump offers better (and controlled) water pressure than direct city water connection with the darn pressure regulator. I attempted to add a pressure regulator inline behind the city water connection port and noticed the reducer (that turns 3/4 port to 1/2 inch pipe connector) has a hole that is about the same size of fixed pressure regulator. No matter what pressure regulator you use, unless it is adjustable, it is just proportionate, meaning it will convert 100 psi to 40 psi, I am going to assume if you connected to 150 psi, it will be much higher than 40 psi (again unless it is adjustable and you need to open pressure from zero just to be sure).

So my take is the reducer already has a pressure regulator built in, Thor does not tell you that. I continued to use a pressure regulator but every one in my family complained the shower pressure was low and then using the water pump gives the best outcome. I think Dan and one other person recommended some solution like that. I am going to stick to it and abandon the inline permanent pressure regulator project. Basically just fill the fresh water tank and use the water pump. Change the water pump when it goes bad.

Oh well, I stepped on the OBD II port when stepping on the parking brake (I had a OBD2 reader connected at that time, it was protruding and I mistook it for parking brake, argh!!!!) and I snapped it. That killed every button on the steering wheel, instrument cluster is dead, no high beam, no turn signal, no wiper, no cruise control, no gas guage, no oil pressure guage, no temp guage, no speedometer, no rpm... I barely made it back from San Antonio. Fixing it is going to be my next project. I will post a separate thread.

You're confusing pressure with flow. A constrictor, small hole in the flow of the pipe, reduction of pipe size, etc reduces flow everywhere, and is felt as a pressure reduction at the outlet only while flow is occurring. When flow is stopped, the high city water pressure will be felt on all pipes and fittings in your RV, possibly causing damage and leaks. Pascal's Law.

[nsraja]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

You're confusing pressure with flow. A constrictor, small hole in the flow of the pipe, reduction of pipe size, etc reduces flow everywhere, and is felt as a pressure reduction at the outlet only while flow is occurring. When flow is stopped, the high city water pressure will be felt on all pipes and fittings in your RV, possibly causing damage and leaks. Pascal's Law.

Applying physics, what you are saying makes sense. As a good physics student I should have thought of that. And I could say that non-adjustable pressure regulators are nothing more than flow restrictors.