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Old 02-06-2021, 08:10 PM   #21
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Model: Vegas 25.6
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THOR #20220
You both should report this and pressure a fix

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Old 02-06-2021, 08:45 PM   #22
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Tuscany 40LX
State: Iowa
Posts: 8
THOR #1804
Underbelly Deterioration

I'm following a similar discussion on iRV2 by at least two guys who have similar issues with the water compartment. This is the link:

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/und...re-520831.html

I have a 2012 Thor Tuscany 40LX which I suspect has the same issues. I'll do a full "autopsy" on mine in the spring when the weather is better to see if I have rotten wood flooring.

The guys in the above thread are doing their own repairs and it sounds like they are really doing it right. That is, they've removed the fresh water tank, removed all the rotted flooring and insulation, cleaned and repainted the metal framework, and are replacing it all with better quality materials and are re-sealing everything to stop the water intrusion from the roadway. You know -- like it should have been done by the manufacturer! I strongly encourage you to check out the thread -- it's been very educational for me.
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Old 02-06-2021, 08:59 PM   #23
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Model: Windsport 29m
State: North Carolina
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THOR #9553
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonesyracing View Post
2013 Tuscany 45LT purchased last year. fresh water tank is sagging, and aluminum under coach is bulging downward. Has anyone else had this problem and addressed it. I have not attempted to fix yet but as I lightly probed a small hole in the thin aluminum floor of the bottom of coach it appears that they used some type of plywood under the tank and it is crumbling to pcs likely from getting wet. I have not contacted Good Sam yet as we have the service contact but am guessing it is going to be an ordeal getting them to pay, plus wondering if Camping world would even fix it right. My thoughts would be cut out the crappy extremely thin aluminum sheet, remove junk wood, and replace wood with maybe the pink or blue styrofoam insulation sheets found at Lowes. Then replace aluminum and add a couple more steel supports. Currently only one approx 2" square tube supports the tank in the middle of coach. Anyone else?
If your comfortable doing it yourself, DO IT!!! You will get better results because you own it and will probably cost less that the deductible you'll pay the Insurance Co.
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Old 02-09-2021, 02:07 PM   #24
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Model: Tuscany 45lt
State: Colorado
Posts: 13
THOR #21333
Jacktextor, Sounds like you and I are on the same page with planned repairs. Also, Scubawise, I emailed Thor service reporting the problem and questioning warranty as someone mentioned 10 years structural warranty. They denied but offered assistance in the way of answering any questions I may have. I informed them I will handle it along with the numerous other issues that I am having that I did not have with my previous 20 year old coach from another manufacturer. JackTextor, another question for you since you have the same model and year; Have you found that driving in cold temps the cold outside air coming from under the dash makes it hard for the dash heater to even keep you warm? I spent an entire day trying to seal up the hood, and gaps between the under hood area and firewall under dash. I also tried to insulate the hoses that direct the heat to the windshield. We couldn't continue driving in the snow on a trip in December because the defroster would not keep the windshield from freezing up. Also when we bought this we thought the previous owner didn't do much for keeping it clean back in the back bedroom area, but after being on the road found that unacceptable amounts of air blow in from the back of the slides back in the bedroom. The slides were closed tight, and the seals are all in good condition. I believe it is coming from the wheel wells, and the black we cleaned from the walls is from brake dust from over time. Driving in cold temps we had to run the dash heater on high and run the aqua hot heat continuously and still had to drive with jackets, and a blanket on my legs.
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Old 02-09-2021, 03:11 PM   #25
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State: Missouri
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THOR #6903
When we travel in very cold weather I do the following:

1) Dash heater on high/temp setting and on recirculate only
2) Aqua-Hot on and zone 1 set to 72 or so which keeps the register under the dash providing heat
3) Never have experienced high humidity in the coach so no window issues
4) Typical travel day will begin well after sun up and camped well before sundown

Didn't experience any air in-leakage so perhaps different year of build
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Old 08-24-2021, 10:58 PM   #26
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Model: Tuscany 45AT
State: Illinois
Posts: 84
THOR #5822
Update to #13

Aug 2021 - The floor below my water tank has dropped out of the structural frame. It appears that the particle board has completely broken down, leaving only the plastic jacket (white top layer) and the bottom, with nothing in the middle.

The water tank actually moved, causing the drain line to pop up out of the drain hole in the catch basin (below the black/gray water drain connection point).
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Old 08-24-2021, 11:26 PM   #27
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Model: Tuscany 45AT
State: Illinois
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THOR #5822
NOTE TO JONESYRACING #24: Get an 8 ft tension rod and put it behind the driver and passenger seat with some opaque curtains that span the width of the coach. It is amazing how much this improves both the a/c and heat performance in the cockpit. All the warm or cool air is kept up front when the curtains are pulled across the aisle.
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Old 08-25-2021, 12:08 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjdougherty View Post
Aug 2021 - The floor below my water tank has dropped out of the structural frame. It appears that the particle board has completely broken down, leaving only the plastic jacket (white top layer) and the bottom, with nothing in the middle.

The water tank actually moved, causing the drain line to pop up out of the drain hole in the catch basin (below the black/gray water drain connection point).
That isn't good for sure
Have you repaired the floor and if how?

Mine seems OK but i could be in for a surprise
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Old 08-25-2021, 02:59 AM   #29
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Model: Tuscany 40LX
State: Iowa
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THOR #1804
Update to #22

I have a 2012 Thor Tuscany 40LX which I bought used seven years ago. I recently discovered the floor of the water compartment had rotted out and I just finished replacing it myself. The original floor was 3/8" plywood with a black plastic surface inside (upon which the 91-gallon fresh water tank sat) and a thin aluminum skin bonded to the bottom (road) side. I believe there was galvanic corrosion between the thin aluminum skin and the metal frame upon which it sat, and this corrosion allowed water spray from the road to intrude and delaminate/rot the plywood. I pulled the fresh water tank from the basement on the curb side. (To pull it from the driver's side, I would have had to disconnect the gray- and black-water drains from their respective holding tanks -- didn't want to disturb any of that.) Following fresh water tank removal, I removed all the rotted flooring and found the metal frame to be mildly rusted. I used an angle grinder with a polycarbide abrasive wheel to clean the frame down to bare metal. Then I used three "POR-15" products to prep the metal: POR-15 Cleaner Degreaser; POR-15 Metal Prep; and POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating. Instead of using plywood and worrying about it rotting again, I instead used a 3/8-inch composite board called "COOSA Bluewater 26." (It is used in marine applications, it is totally resistant to water, stronger than plywood, and 40% lighter than plywood. It cuts just like wood with a circular saw.) A 4'x8' panel was all I needed to completely refloor my compartment and it was $197. Shipping was an additional $150. I read about two other men in the iRV2 Forum who did the similar job I did. One was quoted $10,000 to do the repair, and the other was quoted $7,600. I did the complete job in my storage barn for $590 in materials.
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Old 08-25-2021, 03:11 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCCraig View Post
I have a 2012 Thor Tuscany 40LX which I bought used seven years ago. I recently discovered the floor of the water compartment had rotted out and I just finished replacing it myself. The original floor was 3/8" plywood with a black plastic surface inside (upon which the 91-gallon fresh water tank sat) and a thin aluminum skin bonded to the bottom (road) side. I believe there was galvanic corrosion between the thin aluminum skin and the metal frame upon which it sat, and this corrosion allowed water spray from the road to intrude and delaminate/rot the plywood. I pulled the fresh water tank from the basement on the curb side. (To pull it from the driver's side, I would have had to disconnect the gray- and black-water drains from their respective holding tanks -- didn't want to disturb any of that.) Following fresh water tank removal, I removed all the rotted flooring and found the metal frame to be mildly rusted. I used an angle grinder with a polycarbide abrasive wheel to clean the frame down to bare metal. Then I used three "POR-15" products to prep the metal: POR-15 Cleaner Degreaser; POR-15 Metal Prep; and POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating. Instead of using plywood and worrying about it rotting again, I instead used a 3/8-inch composite board called "COOSA Bluewater 26." (It is used in marine applications, it is totally resistant to water, stronger than plywood, and 40% lighter than plywood. It cuts just like wood with a circular saw.) A 4'x8' panel was all I needed to completely refloor my compartment and it was $197. Shipping was an additional $150. I read about two other men in the iRV2 Forum who did the similar job I did. One was quoted $10,000 to do the repair, and the other was quoted $7,600. I did the complete job in my storage barn for $590 in materials.
Very nice work
Thanks fir sharing
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