Fridge not working on AC power

[Gee Rving]

My wife and I are retired and we bought a used 2011 Thor Four Winds Class C RV from an elderly couple in Palm Harbor Fla. and drove it back to New Hampshire where we live. We were staying at a campground and realized the AC part of the fridge wasn't working so we just used the propane until we got back home. Right now it's parked and we are getting to leave in a month to do some full time RVing. If you don't mind me asking you some questions about my fridge I would appreciate that.
My propane works on the fridge but the AC doesn't. Its a Norcold. I tested the 2 fuses and they are fine. Just to be sure in case they switched the fuses out. what do the amperage suppose to be on the two fuses?One fuse is round and the other one is flat.
The GFI wasn't popped. I'm getting power from the fridge outlet.
Is there anything that I can do before I hire someone to fix it.

[javelin]

Hi, I am not sure which model Norcold you have but it sounds like it is a 2 source RV fridge (propane or 120VAC heater). The manual I have shows both fuses are 5 amp per the attached power board 2 source models shown. If you have a different model then you will need to check on line or in your manual.


So the fridge works on propane no problem, just the 120vac heater “seems” to have failed. You mentioned the fridge “outlet” has 120VAC on it......do you mean the two wires on the power board that feed the fridge 120vac heater element (marked AC Heater Terminals shown on the attached power board diagrams)? Or do you mean the duplex AC outlet inside the external panel of the fridge?
If you set the fridge for automatic and you are on shore power, (set your multimeter for AC volts at least 120vac); very carefully measure across the AC heater terminals on the power board. If AC is good feeding the heater terminals then the control board is probably good too and it is likely just the heater element is burned out.
To test the heater element continuity you must disconnect all shore, gen (off) and battery power (use/store off) from the coach and then carefully pull off one of the 120VAC heater feed wires from the power board. Use your multimeter set to “ohm meter” and see if you have any resistance reading across the heater terminals (one loose and one still connected to the board). If the heater element is burned out you should see open (no resistance reading) on the meter. If you check Youtube there are likely videos of changing out the heater element; or just get an RV tech or Dealer to do it for you.

[Gee Rving]

Originally Posted by javelin

Hi, I am not sure which model Norcold you have but it sounds like it is a 2 source RV fridge (propane or 120VAC heater). The manual I have shows both fuses are 5 amp per the attached power board 2 source models shown. If you have a different model then you will need to check on line or in your manual.


So the fridge works on propane no problem, just the 120vac heater “seems” to have failed. You mentioned the fridge “outlet” has 120VAC on it......do you mean the two wires on the power board that feed the fridge 120vac heater element (marked AC Heater Terminals shown on the attached power board diagrams)? Or do you mean the duplex AC outlet inside the external panel of the fridge?
If you set the fridge for automatic and you are on shore power, (set your multimeter for AC volts at least 120vac); very carefully measure across the AC heater terminals on the power board. If AC is good feeding the heater terminals then the control board is probably good too and it is likely just the heater element is burned out.
To test the heater element continuity you must disconnect all shore, gen (off) and battery power (use/store off) from the coach and then carefully pull off one of the 120VAC heater feed wires from the power board. Use your multimeter set to “ohm meter” and see if you have any resistance reading across the heater terminals (one loose and one still connected to the board). If the heater element is burned out you should see open (no resistance reading) on the meter. If you check Youtube there are likely videos of changing out the heater element; or just get an RV tech or Dealer to do it for you.

It's a Norcold N611FLT.. The power source I checked was the outlet where the fridge plugs into. I didn't probe no wheres on the board. I will try some of your thoughts.
Thank you so much for the reply and the pics.

[javelin]

Sorry I missed the 61x Power board picture....see attached. Looks similar to the other models. I guess the other method of testing if the 120vac heater is working is very carefully touching the chimney pipe after the 120vac heater has been turned on the fridge (set for control panel to auto and connected to shore power). No heat means element is not working.....but there is still proving if the 120vac is actually getting to the heat element wires through the power board. I am sure it will be a straight forward repair though. Good luck.

[Gee Rving]

Originally Posted by javelin

Sorry I missed the 61x Power board picture....see attached. Looks similar to the other models. I guess the other method of testing if the 120vac heater is working is very carefully touching the chimney pipe after the 120vac heater has been turned on the fridge (set for control panel to auto and connected to shore power). No heat means element is not working.....but there is still proving if the 120vac is actually getting to the heat element wires through the power board. I am sure it will be a straight forward repair though. Good luck.

Thanks, you guys are the best