Fridge: Something to Watch?

[Bob Denman]

This is gonna need a closer look: my fridge is in the side also.

[brucev]

I installed my Fridge Defend yesterday. It took me most of the day by the time I did my best to digest the multiple documents, web searches and video's recommended by the ARPRV website. It was not difficult just took some time. I would not recommend anyone attempt the installation that does not have a basic understanding of electronics. The one thing I was worried about going in was installing the boiler sensor and that turned out to be simple.
I had an issue with the fan not coming on, even though the top section of the cabinet was very hot. I did find the fan test so I know they work but could not find the set point for the fan temperature control. I emailed Paul and this is the response I got "Hi Bruce, sounds like you need to download the manuals" which I had done and read through a couple of times before and during installation. Now I am the first to admit that I may not be the sharpest knife in the drawer which is why I felt the need to ask for help but that response was uncalled for. I have not given up and will post updates as I progress.
One thing I noticed on my Thor Hurricane is that there is a 5” high by the width and depth of the refrigerator dead space above my fridge that is nothing but a heat trap so I filled the empty space with fiberglass insulation and that seemed to help the heat transfer from the top of the fridge into the RV living space. The sides were insulated but not the top so much of the heat was escaping into the living space rather than out the vent.
If someone knows how to change the temperature for the fans will you, please post a reply or PM me?

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by brucev

I installed my Fridge Defend yesterday. It took me most of the day by the time I did my best to digest the multiple documents, web searches and video's recommended by the ARPRV website. It was not difficult just took some time. I would not recommend anyone attempt the installation that does not have a basic understanding of electronics. The one thing I was worried about going in was installing the boiler sensor and that turned out to be simple.

I had an issue with the fan not coming on, even though the top section of the cabinet was very hot. I did find the fan test so I know they work but could not find the set point for the fan temperature control. I emailed Paul and this is the response I got "Hi Bruce, sounds like you need to download the manuals" which I had done and read through a couple of times before and during installation. Now I am the first to admit that I may not be the sharpest knife in the drawer which is why I felt the need to ask for help but that response was uncalled for. I have not given up and will post updates as I progress.

One thing I noticed on my Thor Hurricane is that there is a 5” high by the width and depth of the refrigerator dead space above my fridge that is nothing but a heat trap so I filled the empty space with fiberglass insulation and that seemed to help the heat transfer from the top of the fridge into the RV living space. The sides were insulated but not the top so much of the heat was escaping into the living space rather than out the vent.

If someone knows how to change the temperature for the fans will you, please post a reply or PM me?

I’m still needing to get back to mine. Need a day without rain and they seem to be pretty rare this spring. The web site has TONS of information but it’s not well organized nor is the navigation intuitive. I did stumble on to a page about setting the fan temperature switch but I just looked for it again and didn’t locate it! It’s there though and if I can ferret it out I’ll be sure to print out a copy. Good luck. Supposed to be nice later this week so I hope to finish mine up.

[Pete'sMH]

Found it! There may be other navigation maps to get to the page but I got there on the “purchase” page. Got to any product that has the fans, click on “additional product information” then took for additional fan installation details and go there. In the meantime maybe this screenshot is what you need. Good luck!

[brucev]

Thank you Pete'sMH, that is perfect. I did find a page and short video but that one talked about changing parameters in the firmware and had links that would take you around in circles. I think I can set it with the information you found.
Thanks Again Pete.

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by brucev

Thank you Pete'sMH, that is perfect. I did find a page and short video but that one talked about changing parameters in the firmware and had links that would take you around in circles. I think I can set it with the information you found.

Thanks Again Pete.

Did you figure it out? I finished my installation yesterday except for the outside fan. I want to fabricate a bracket to hold it in the opening instead of attaching it to the cover. My system works great but, like yours, did not get hot enough to turn on the fans in the default setting. I reset mine to setting 2 and they seem to be fine. My boiler reads about 190 on gas and my fan temp sender runs about 125. Fun project with, potentially, life saving benefit.

[MichFigs]

Originally Posted by brucev

Bob,


Check out the web page there is more information than you will ever want to know. I first heard of them about two years ago when we were in a lot close to a rig that was gutted and the fire started in the refrigerator. I didn't buy it then, just kinda put it off until I saw this thread and I decided to finally take the plunge. Paul and Mao are the owners of ARPRV. I think he is a retired engineer or something that owns RV's himself. You can email them with questions and he got right back to me. Anyway, I will post after I get mine installed. Safe travels and God bless!

Thank you to all of you Thor Forum members for your posts on this subject. Our Norcold N611 has had a hard time keeping up with the hot weather during our travels, even after adding some cooling fans last winter to pull cool air over the coils. Ordered the ARPrv Fridge Defend with 2 exterior fan/blowers and two interiors as well. After an installation that took about 6 hours total, happy to report this has made a big difference in maintaining the fridge temps in addition to the added safety features. Had a question on settings while on propane versus 120volt and after sending an email, Paul responded quickly and expertly. I would suggest downloading all the manuals onto your laptop for all the information you could possibly ever need on the operation of this unit. Only wish that we had done this upgrade long ago!

[Pete'sMH]

The ARP website has a ton of good information about absorption refrigerators and about their product. The concept of their product is very sound and the execution is brilliant. But the web site is poorly organized and it takes a bit of effort to get the maximum benefit. I installed the defender with two inside fans and one outside and it was an interesting DIY project. I didn’t want to mount the outside fan on the removable vent cover so I made a simple bracket so I could secure it Inside the opening. I’m a big fan of these fridges due to their simplicity and low power needs and this modification seemed pretty worthwhile to me.

[MichFigs]

Thank you to Pete'sMH for your comment and pix (was looking for a bracket for an alternate mount of the lower fan). Have to agree on the layout of the plentiful information on their product website, which could be better organized for the customer. However, cannot say enough about their quick replies to the end user if you do have questions. ARPrv FRIDGE DEFEND is a great fix!

[Pete'sMH]

For anyone wondering about this, the installation is pretty straightforward and does not require any modifications to the fridge and no cut or spliced wires. You just clip a temp sensor to the boiler output and move the fridges main power wire over to the new ARP control box and replace it on the fridge with one from the ARP box. The principle of the thing is that the boiler can overheat and potentially start a fire if the flow of coolant is interrupted- like a pot on the stove that boils dry. The ARP device then cuts off the power to the fridge until the temp gets back to normal. The coolant flows by gravity and is the main reason the fridge needs to be level in operation. If it’s too crooked the liquid coolant pools and doesn’t get back to the boiler. An added interesting feature of the device is that it displays the temp at the boiler and of the returning coolant. It’s not especially important to know these numbers but it’s sort of interesting. Adding the internal and external fans is just a matter of plugging them in and they only run when the fridge is actually cooling. I know residential is all the rage these days and maybe if I was full time I’d be a fan as well but as it is I’m a big fan of absorption refrigerators because of their simplicity and low power need. I consider this to be a useful upgrade.