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Old 07-04-2022, 12:57 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Jimbo56 View Post
Can you get to the rear when it’s out?

Not sure. This is the LCI video on the slide.


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Old 07-04-2022, 01:00 PM   #22
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I thought about it being one or two teeth off except it opens and closes tight all the way around. It just works out at the bottom when driven. And it moves out the same distance front and back, at the bottom. Hopefully someone in the Houston area has technicians that are educated on Schwintek. I don't want to pay an hourly rate for someone to to learn about it.
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Old 07-04-2022, 03:30 PM   #23
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Pull the rubber flap aside from outside when slide is out at the bottom and you can see the v roller. To replace it the whole system on that end must be removed, full days work to remove and reinstall. If the slide wall is to close to fixed wall and you can't get to motor and metal plates that must be removed, I gently rocked the trim back and forth working brad nails out then removed screws holding backing boards, that gives you plenty of space. When finished I screwed backing boards inplace and cut brad nails off and used velcro to install wood trim.
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Old 07-05-2022, 01:34 PM   #24
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THOR #17765
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Originally Posted by Jimbo56 View Post
Can you get to the rear when it’s out?
Yes, from outside. No, from inside.
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Old 07-05-2022, 01:40 PM   #25
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THOR #17765
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimOIB View Post
Not sure. This is the LCI video on the slide.

After watching this , when mine screws up, I’m calling vroom. I’m not equipped for this type of repair.
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Old 07-06-2022, 08:15 PM   #26
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It is both sides and equal. I checked the track and there is no visible damage to the outside ends when extended. Thanks
I have the same issue with my 2019 Hurricane 33x, my dealer added an extra "D" rubber seal along the bottom of the slide.
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Old 07-07-2022, 11:34 AM   #27
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I have the same issue with my 2019 Hurricane 33x, my dealer added an extra "D" rubber seal along the bottom of the slide.

That seems like a band-aid fix. If the top of the sides and the bottom of the sides aren't touching the slide box simultaneously, that means something is off.

Either....

- The slide box is not square (LCI says the tolerance is 1/8").

- The bottom pinion gear is off by a tooth in the track as compared to the top pinion gear.

- There is a problem with the main rollers hanging up, the V-rollers are failing or the lower track has damage or is loose.
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Old 07-07-2022, 01:37 PM   #28
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All the mechanics are fine, both sides and the top are tight when retracted. The bottom of the slide has a slight curve....
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Old 07-07-2022, 11:30 PM   #29
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All the mechanics are fine, both sides and the top are tight when retracted. The bottom of the slide has a slight curve....


Ok…. Then that’s just Thor’s typical quality and workmanship. [emoji6]
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Old 07-08-2022, 12:24 AM   #30
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You nailed it....now the only issue is to figure out why both the chassis and house batteries are dead while connected to shore power....
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Old 07-08-2022, 03:26 AM   #31
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My 34J Hurricane does this all the time without the slide lock in place when driving. Cam out almost 8 inches one day - I noticed in the side mirror and almost shit myself.

Fix - was to fully extend slide and the retract it again. All three times it occurred this was an easy fix.

Darren
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Old 07-08-2022, 02:57 PM   #32
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Full wall slide doesn't stay tight at the bottom

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nursx2 View Post
My 34J Hurricane does this all the time without the slide lock in place when driving. Cam out almost 8 inches one day - I noticed in the side mirror and almost shit myself.

Fix - was to fully extend slide and the retract it again. All three times it occurred this was an easy fix.

Darren

That should never happen with a 500:1 motor on a full-wall slide.

You can put a wrench on the motor shaft and It can’t be spun. On top of that the Controller applies braking force to keep it from moving.

You either have a switch, wiring or Controller problem if the slide is moving out on its own.
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Old 07-09-2022, 07:52 PM   #33
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So I got the coach back from MHSRV yesterday so I can now look closer at he slide. Driving the 165 miles home the slide moved out at the bottom again but it is farther out at the front than the back. Retracting it again, I believe it is tighter at he back than the front leading me to think that the front lower gear at one or two teeth out of synch. I upload two pics: one showing the "front" end and how far it moved out and the other looking front to back, under the lip of the slide, to show that it is farther out in the front than the back. You have to click on the photos for them to appear right-side-up.

If I slide it out about half way can I try to count the track slots from the end to the gear? If it is off a tooth I would think those might be different.

If it is off a tooth, it appears to me that the entire rack on the side has to be removed to reset it.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-09-2022, 07:59 PM   #34
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Before I would EVER let anyone(even myself) but vroom touch those slides
I'd drill two holes in the floor(or whatever equivalent works)and pin it closed for travel.

Do not unravel the sweater. Knot the thread that has come loose.
The amount of grief that could be caused by making this minor a major....

Example:
My slide, and many others, has the nine flash ground fault warning. I could tear the slide out and fix it...but it just ain't a problem.

You live with what you can and you fix what you have to.

You open it all up to find the slide is off center by 1/8th inch magnified over the travel and width of the slide.
(I believe this your problem)
It is closing 'square' only due to overtorque/seal squish as the motor gets its sleep command.


Do you spend the months in service to correct this 1/8th inch...at cw...where last weeks floor sweeper is this weeks slide technician because the six different guys who worked on your slide in the last three months have a quit?
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Old 07-09-2022, 08:42 PM   #35
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If it wasn't open far enough to let water in I might live with it as is. Since it is worse at the front, and that's where driving rain would hit, I might try to fabricate a slide lock. I'm going to call Lippert next week and get their thoughts.
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Old 07-10-2022, 10:40 AM   #36
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Why not try bringing it in tight, measure distance in front and rear, fron wall to slide trim, and cut 2 2 x 4’s to wedge in at the bottom to “ lock” the slide. If it works as it should, extending & retracting, this might be your travel fix.
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Old 07-10-2022, 10:54 AM   #37
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If it wasn't open far enough to let water in I might live with it as is. Since it is worse at the front, and that's where driving rain would hit, I might try to fabricate a slide lock. I'm going to call Lippert next week and get their thoughts.
That should NEVER happen if everything is working properly (Motors, Controller, Wiring, etc.). Almost hard to believe the tech didn't do a thorough test drive.... but we are talking about dealer techs.

I have read the LCI Service Manual and Troubleshooting Manuals inside and out multiple times and they don't even cover a slide moving out while underway. I've held a 500:1 motor and put a wrench on the shaft and it is impossible to spin. LCI doesn't even mention the option to remove the two motor harnesses from the Controller to push the slide manually that some people talk about. The only way they mention moving the slide without power is disengaging the motors from the bearing blocks.

One other possibility I can think of is that the tracks are either not parallel with each other or not parallel with the ground if it is not off by one tooth.

I purchased these slide-locks for my Magnitude and used them before I replaced the Schwintek Slide mechanism with the Vroom Slide System because I didn't trust the LCI design.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I carry the slide locks as a precaution now but don't use them with the Vroom Slide System.
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Old 07-10-2022, 12:34 PM   #38
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I use those same slide locks when we are moving. I simply don’t trust those 2 teenyass motors to hold a several hundred pound slide room in. I made labels and stuck by each button reminding me to remove the slide locks before extending .
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Old 07-10-2022, 12:50 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by Jimbo56 View Post
I use those same slide locks when we are moving. I simply don’t trust those 2 teenyass motors to hold a several hundred pound slide room in. I made labels and stuck by each button reminding me to remove the slide locks before extending .
The motors themselves are not the issue in my opinion. As I said.... if you have the opportunity to try to spin the shaft when the motor is out, give it a shot.

The two main issues with the Schwintek Mechanism that I don't trust is....

- A single, very small screw trying to keep the motors down into the bearing block.

- Nylon V-rollers that can fail and cause the slide box to drop / shift.


Now that the motors are securely mounted with four bolts and heavy duty stud bearings are used instead of V-rollers, I am less worried about movement of the slide-out underway.

But your point is well taken..... there was no way I was trusting the LCI design as it was.
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Old 07-10-2022, 01:41 PM   #40
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Thanks. I counted teeth on the tracks yesterday and they are the same top and bottom. Front to back they seems to be one tooth different. I opened and closed the slide 3 times just to confirm it’s not a synch issue. When the slide is closed it is now apparent that the lower front is not as tight as the other 3 corners.

I wish I was in the position to get Vroom but that is not possible until sometime next year.
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