Furnace Will Not Stay Lit

[Shrex]

2017 Ace 29.2 furnace will light, burn for 20-30 seconds and then shut off. Does this repeatedly when trying to heat the coach. Blower runs fine. I have seen issues around the circuit board being a potential cause. In looking at the outside panel (horizontal panel directly below city water connection port), I see water on the lower lip of the frame.

Is this where the circuit board is located? If it is, I would say water could definitely be the culprit. Secondly, how do you get the cover off? There are six cover screws and then four exhaust cover screws but after removal of the screws, the panel still seems connected.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. We have one more trip this summer and lows are forecasted to dip into the 30’s. Definitely want to resolve before if possible.

[16ACE27]

Remove all screws mentioned.
Pull the exhaust tube out first.
Then pull the door panel off.

You could have a bad circuit board as mentioned (it is behind that panel). Historically the most likely culprit. Replace with a Dinosaur brand.
Or you could have a bad flame sensor which is the same as the ignitor. Less likely culprit as it does ignite the furnace, but cheap enough to replace and keep as a spare if not the problem.

Lows in the 30's can easily be staved off by portable electric heaters if plugged into SP.

[Shrex]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Remove all screws mentioned.
Pull the exhaust tube out first.
Then pull the door panel off.

You could have a bad circuit board as mentioned (it is behind that panel). Historically the most likely culprit. Replace with a Dinosaur brand.
Or you could have a bad flame sensor which is the same as the ignitor. Less likely culprit as it does ignite the furnace, but cheap enough to replace and keep as a spare if not the problem.

Lows in the 30's can easily be staved off by portable electric heaters if plugged into SP.

So here is the current board. Would the Dinosaur UIB-S igniter board be the replacement?

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by Shrex

So here is the current board. Would the Dinosaur UIB-S igniter board be the replacement?

Best to call dinosaur and ask them. Or look up your model on their web site.

[suenmike]

This was driving me crazy. I contacted the manufacturer and they said they had a kit to repair this, but I had to bring it back to the dealer 100 miles away. I spoke to a technician who, on the side told me to just take the circuitboard and move it to higher ground. So I just remove the circuitboard from its seat and mounted it on the wall near where it originally was located to avoid any possible water. I did this two years ago and have not had an issue with it since.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Shrex

So here is the current board. Would the Dinosaur UIB-S igniter board be the replacement?

Visually, the UIB-S does not look correct to replace your CB.

[04fxsts]

This sounds like an igniter board problem and possibly caused by water. Had this problem and it was because the board was wet and poorly designed. The cover panel you show appears solid, ours had molded in louvers that went in. This let rain water flow into the compartment containing the board and that causes the malfunction.
I put in a new "Dinosaur" board made a shield that goes over the board to deflect any water away from the board. I also cut out the backwards louvers and installed a stainless steed grill with louvers angled outwards.
What happens that makes it hard to remove the outer panel is the exhaust pipe. It appears to SS but it still gets corrosion between it and the pipe it fits into and takes some twisting and pulling to remove.
"Dinosaur" are great people to work with so once you have the panel off and a circuit tester in hand give them a call. They will go through the steps to troubleshoot the old board with you. They did this when our old TT water heater board went bad and our 2015 ACE furnace board also. Jim.