HELP! Axis 25.6 reaching fresh water feed valve

[Dirny]

Noob here winterizing for the first time. I used an air compressor to drain and clear out all the water lines and then, after pouring some anti-freeze into each P trap, went to siphon some anti-freeze into the water pump. Removed the lower right drawer in the rear, found the winterizing tube, attached adapter and slipped hose into gallon jug.

Now, as a disciple of Ed Felker and his 24.1 manual, I need to close the fresh water tank feed valve. Took me forever to find it on my 25.6… way down by the bottom of the back of the fresh water tank. No way any normal human can reach it through the opening for the drawers. See pics…

Anti-freeze will not flow… must turn that valve. How in the heck do I reach it?!

Or, what else do I do to get some anti-freeze into the pump?

[Scubawise]

Hey my rv tech moved the shutoff up behind the drawer..
Take off outside shower and add extension

[DavidEM]

I never would have found that valve if the tech hadn't pointed it out during the PDI. It was buried like shown in that pic, but was underneath the passenger side bed on an Axis 24.1.

David

[Chateau_Nomad]

Wasn't there a thread about using a length of PVC pipe and cutting a slot in the end to fit over the handle? Then glue a T on the other end for leverage...

[Dirny]

Originally Posted by Scubawise

Hey my rv tech moved the shutoff up behind the drawer..
Take off outside shower and add extension

Thanks for the reply… Since I’ve been lurking so much I knew you had a 25.6 and was hoping to hear from you.

I can see the outside shower is right there… about 10 screw and removing the seal should get me access. Not sure I’m up for that in the next few days though.

[Dirny]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

Wasn't there a thread about using a length of PVC pipe and cutting a slot in the end to fit over the handle? Then glue a T on the other end for leverage...

Thanks for replying. I was thinking about fashioning some sort of tool to reach down, I would just need a mirror or remote camera to guide it as it is nearly impossible to see without sticking your head into a drawer opening.

[Skip500]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

Wasn't there a thread about using a length of PVC pipe and cutting a slot in the end to fit over the handle? Then glue a T on the other end for leverage...

This would be the way to go, you should be able to reach it by feel. On, the handle is inline with the water line, off, should be 90 degrees to the line. And I believe it should turn to the right for off, left for on. You can check the size of the handle by finding another valve, probably by the water heater, for size of valve handle to match the cut you need to make in the pvc pipe. You could have a helper hold a cell phone in the top drawer opening and zoom the camera feature in to guide you.

[Scubawise]

Originally Posted by Dirny

Thanks for the reply… Since I’ve been lurking so much I knew you had a 25.6 and was hoping to hear from you.

I can see the outside shower is right there… about 10 screw and removing the seal should get me access. Not sure I’m up for that in the next few days though.

Really easy. Remove screws take off..I used beige caulking to reseal like new. Trust me you will be happy..
Also a plumber will do for maybe $50..
My tech did free

[Dirny]

Originally Posted by Skip500

This would be the way to go, you should be able to reach it by feel. On, the handle is inline with the water line, off, should be 90 degrees to the line. And I believe it should turn to the right for off, left for on. You can check the size of the handle by finding another valve, probably by the water heater, for size of valve handle to match the cut you need to make in the pvc pipe. You could have a helper hold a cell phone in the top drawer opening and zoom the camera feature in to guide you.

Thanks for the help. I think I’m going to go this way tomorrow, and follow Scubawise ideas in the spring, when I have more time for a permanent solution.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by Scubawise

Really easy. Remove screws take off..I used beige caulking to reseal like new. Trust me you will be happy..
Also a plumber will do for maybe $50..
My tech did free

I have to admit... this is the way I'd go. Fix it - period, then be done with it and move on to the next project.

[Dirny]

Originally Posted by Scubawise

Really easy. Remove screws take off..I used beige caulking to reseal like new. Trust me you will be happy..
Also a plumber will do for maybe $50..
My tech did free

Thanks. I am definitely going this way in the spring, when I have a bit more time to do it carefully. Trying a tool out tomorrow to get by this winter. Beige caulk is a great idea too!

In the middle of remodeling master bedroom and bathroom while putting my cars away for winter and gone all this weekend… just need to get this all buttoned up and ready for trip to Thor on Dec 6th. But, that’s another thread I’ve been meaning to share… I’ll get around to it soon.

[Dirny]

So I fashioned a self-tapping garage hanger onto the end of a paint roller extension pole to reach down and turn the valve. I tried using my cell phone, a USB camera and finally my endoscope to try to see what I was doing. I struggled for far too long… so many delicate sensor wires and hoses in the way, I just couldn’t do it. Should have listened to Scubawise from the get-go as he was right…
About 10 screws and the outside shower was open, turned the valve, pumped the anti-freeze, buttoned it up and put some caulk on the outside edge. 10 minutes tops. In the spring I will get the pex tools out and make a permanent valve where I can reach it from the inside.

Thanks again for everyone who replied!

[Scubawise]

Yes that is what my expert 30 rv tech said is best..
Good luck and do not forget run pink stuff through outside shower and Tighten all fittings once in there..Kurt told me most leaks are these fittings

[bevedfelker]

My apologies to the OP for not being much help to him in the manual I compiled for locating the water pump feed valve. When I compiled the manual I used my 2015 Vegas 24.1 to reference the locations of various valves, relays, switches, etc. I ad no access to other Vegas/Axis floorpans and I relied on comments others made in this forum to describe where various items were located.

One of the driving factors in my compiling the manual in the first place (versus relying on Thur's generic manual) was having to constantly play the "Where is my ________ located (fill in the blank)." From the very beginning it was obvious to me that Thor had no standard configuration among their floor plans. So for example this water pump feed valve -- I know water pumps are located in many different places but you'd think that some enterprising engineer would say "Why don't we put the water pump feed valve as close to the pump as we can in all floorpans?" You'd think that some enterprising engineers would say, "You know, we ought to tell all owners where the controllers are for each of the Schwintek-Lippert devices are (like the bunk's controller hidden behind a false wall in the cabinet above the sink -- a location I'd immediately go to when looking for the controller." Or how about this -- an engineer saying , "You know we ought to try to put every relay, circuit breaker, and fuse location in an appendix in our manual for each floorplan so that owners can find them -- you know like the locations of in-line fuses hidden behind switches or in wire bundles." Or putting an explanation in their manual on how batteries are charged, how BIRDs, Trombettas, and BIMs work.

I tried to fill that information gap and unfortunately may have missed the mark in too many cases -- mea culpa.

[Dirny]

Originally Posted by bevedfelker

My apologies to the OP for not being much help to him in the manual I compiled for locating the water pump feed valve. When I compiled the manual I used my 2015 Vegas 24.1 to reference the locations of various valves, relays, switches, etc. I ad no access to other Vegas/Axis floorpans and I relied on comments others made in this forum to describe where various items were located.

One of the driving factors in my compiling the manual in the first place (versus relying on Thur's generic manual) was having to constantly play the "Where is my ________ located (fill in the blank)." From the very beginning it was obvious to me that Thor had no standard configuration among their floor plans. So for example this water pump feed valve -- I know water pumps are located in many different places but you'd think that some enterprising engineer would say "Why don't we put the water pump feed valve as close to the pump as we can in all floorpans?" You'd think that some enterprising engineers would say, "You know, we ought to tell all owners where the controllers are for each of the Schwintek-Lippert devices are (like the bunk's controller hidden behind a false wall in the cabinet above the sink -- a location I'd immediately go to when looking for the controller." Or how about this -- an engineer saying , "You know we ought to try to put every relay, circuit breaker, and fuse location in an appendix in our manual for each floorplan so that owners can find them -- you know like the locations of in-line fuses hidden behind switches or in wire bundles." Or putting an explanation in their manual on how batteries are charged, how BIRDs, Trombettas, and BIMs work.

I tried to fill that information gap and unfortunately may have missed the mark in too many cases -- mea culpa.

Ed,

I think most on this forum would agree the one thing you DO NOT have to do is ever apologize for all the tremendous work you put into your manual. I just got my 25.6 in August, but I have been reading your manual for years and having this manual helped me to make a purchase decision. In fact, despite having a 25.6, I consulted your manual when winterizing, learned that there was a valve somewhere I needed to close, then referred to the schematics that Thor provides and found the valve. Couldn’t reach it, but found it. On my todo list is to modify your manual specific to my 25.6 so that when my kids borrow it, they can have a handy reference. But, that’s down the list for now.

I would like to take this opportunity to personally and sincerely thank you for all your effort in this manual… I think it is simply wonderful.

David

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by bevedfelker

My apologies to the OP for not being much help to him in the manual I compiled for locating the water pump feed valve. When I compiled the manual I used my 2015 Vegas 24.1 to reference the locations of various valves, relays, switches, etc. I ad no access to other Vegas/Axis floorpans and I relied on comments others made in this forum to describe where various items were located.

One of the driving factors in my compiling the manual in the first place (versus relying on Thur's generic manual) was having to constantly play the "Where is my ________ located (fill in the blank)." From the very beginning it was obvious to me that Thor had no standard configuration among their floor plans. So for example this water pump feed valve -- I know water pumps are located in many different places but you'd think that some enterprising engineer would say "Why don't we put the water pump feed valve as close to the pump as we can in all floorpans?" You'd think that some enterprising engineers would say, "You know, we ought to tell all owners where the controllers are for each of the Schwintek-Lippert devices are (like the bunk's controller hidden behind a false wall in the cabinet above the sink -- a location I'd immediately go to when looking for the controller." Or how about this -- an engineer saying , "You know we ought to try to put every relay, circuit breaker, and fuse location in an appendix in our manual for each floorplan so that owners can find them -- you know like the locations of in-line fuses hidden behind switches or in wire bundles." Or putting an explanation in their manual on how batteries are charged, how BIRDs, Trombettas, and BIMs work.

I tried to fill that information gap and unfortunately may have missed the mark in too many cases -- mea culpa.

Your manual is single the most important thing that I have seen and learned from this Forum. While I have never used it for any Axis, I used it exclusively for my PDIs on ACE 29.3; 27B and even my my current SOB 29ve. As fate would have it, my SOB was the only one that passed every step of your PDI, the roof components notwithstanding. I will be honest, at that the time; I was too scared to go up on the roof of any of them; and too cheap pay anybody to inspect for me

In my view; you were not only dead on on what to do, or least what to look for you created a stellar professional document that I am reminded to say thank you again

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Dirny

Should have listened to Scubawise from the get-go as he was right…
About 10 screws and the outside shower was open, turned the valve, pumped the anti-freeze, buttoned it up and put some caulk on the outside edge. 10 minutes tops. In the spring I will get the pex tools out and make a permanent valve where I can reach it from the inside.

Thanks again for everyone who replied!

Originally Posted by Scubawise

Yes that is what my expert 30 rv tech said is best..
Good luck and do not forget run pink stuff through outside shower and Tighten all fittings once in there..Kurt told me most leaks are these fittings

Teamwork; good stuff and why this forum is best no matter what you own.

[chunker21]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

Wasn't there a thread about using a length of PVC pipe and cutting a slot in the end to fit over the handle? Then glue a T on the other end for leverage...

I may have mentioned it before but I have a couple versions I made. This one is for reaching overhead vent knobs in a tall ceiling 5th wheel. I made another for the Omni bathroom since we are short, and have different slots cut for an underground 1" PVC water valve. Picture is sideways but in this case doesn't matter. This one is 3/4" schedule 40 PVC, my outside for the water valve is 1". I remembered I have another that I made for a well valve that has a 90* on the handle to let me reach in and have leverage. Basically the end cut out piece gets various cutting to fit over different valves, etc.

[Scubawise]

Originally Posted by Dirny

Ed,

I think most on this forum would agree the one thing you DO NOT have to do is ever apologize for all the tremendous work you put into your manual. I just got my 25.6 in August, but I have been reading your manual for years and having this manual helped me to make a purchase decision. In fact, despite having a 25.6, I consulted your manual when winterizing, learned that there was a valve somewhere I needed to close, then referred to the schematics that Thor provides and found the valve. Couldn’t reach it, but found it. On my todo list is to modify your manual specific to my 25.6 so that when my kids borrow it, they can have a handy reference. But, that’s down the list for now.

I would like to take this opportunity to personally and sincerely thank you for all your effort in this manual… I think it is simply wonderful.

David

Agree same here why we bought our 25.6
Thanks ED

[Chateau_Nomad]

One of the really cool things about this forum is FREELY sharing the multitude of different approaches to solving problems... many ways to skin that cat!!

I will TRIPLE the comments about NEVER having to apologize for contributing - even thinking you missed a small detail. Any time you provide a "different angle", you have likely helped a crowd of people solve a painstaking problem.

So... Hats off to all who contribute their FREE advice!