generator use

[apr67]

Originally Posted by The Gritz Carlton

Most trailers have 2-Ways with LP or 12V. The tow vehicle keeps the batteries charged in the trailer underway. With the previous TT, I would use 12V while underway, then switch over to gas once at the destination. LP cools better than 12V.

Not true in my experience. My last two trailers, my folks last two trailers, all 5 or less years old had 2 way fridges, 12v with Propane and 12v with 120v. I have not seen 12v only and 12v/120v AC fridges in quite a while. Three way fridges are available as well, but I we had such bad luck with he one we had 2 decades ago we used it only as a 2 way.

[The Gritz Carlton]

I must have read your post wrong...you said, "not true in my experience", but confirmed everything I said. I missed something. 12V and Propane is very common.

[apr67]

Originally Posted by The Gritz Carlton

I must have read your post wrong...you said, "not true in my experience", but confirmed everything I said. I missed something. 12V and Propane is very common.

You did. Both the 120v and propane also need 12v for the logic board. What isn't common is a 2 way fridge that is 12v & propane and 12v Only.

[Chance]

You’re right that “12V only” isn’t common, but they’re starting to be more common in smaller sizes, particularly in van campers. All the ones I’ve seen were compressor type — none were absorption. Absorption refrigeration makes them way too inefficient to run on electricity on a regular basis.

Larger 12V residential compressor type are reportedly on the horizon.

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by apr67

I run with propane powering the fridge as much as possible, I only turn on the generator if I need roof AC's.



Interesting how afraid some folks are of propane when they are driving a box made by the lowest bidder carrying 80 gallons of unleaded. To each his own.

Not so much being afraid of the propane as it is common sense. If you can run on the inverter while driving why would you want to use propane? And propane is way more flammable than gasoline.

[Justcurious]

This is a test to see if the forum is going to let me post a reply to my own thread this time unlike the 3 last attempts.

[gmabobby]

explain to me the "store switch please"

[Justcurious]

Yes I am still here even though the forum doesn't think so.
We just got back from a trip to the Falls Lake State Recreation Area North Carolina, Beautiful.
My refrig is Not a residential type. It runs on Shore Power, Generator and Propane. I am a Florida boy, there is not a lot of LP or Propane gas use here. I do not like bouncing down the road with the propane on. I have read a lot of pro and con's about that on this forum. We use it for cooking and to supplement the electric heat when it is COLD. I am familiar with the state regulations in different areas. We do not have to run the coach A/C while on the road as the chassis A/C does just fine in our Class C unit. We would only need to run the generator for a couple hours for the refrig as we do not drive more than 8 hours.
I appreciate the above advice. It is very nice to have all this experience in one place ( forum ) and it is free for the asking.
Thank You

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Justcurious

What are your thoughts on running the generator to cool refrigerator while on the road? My refrig is good for about 5 hours before getting too warm. Is it okay to run the generator while underway? 2017 Thor Quantum RS26, Cummins 4000 generator.

If you are above 5,000 ft the RV frig is unreliable on propane. Norcold recommends that only be run on 120 volts. I spent considerably time a Creede, CO last year and could never get the Norcold to light on propane on the way to from Creede

[Justcurious]

Beau388, that's good information Thank You.

[Pete'sMH]

I bought a 1000 W inverter and transfer switch so I can run my fridge on the battery/alternator while driving instead of propane. Works a treat but cost about $250 and several hours of work. Seems like an effective alternative to propane and running the generator.

[The Gritz Carlton]

Originally Posted by Pete'sMH

I bought a 1000 W inverter and transfer switch so I can run my fridge on the battery/alternator while driving instead of propane. Works a treat but cost about $250 and several hours of work. Seems like an effective alternative to propane and running the generator.

It's the only way to go, IMO. You can leave it on 120V even when you camp if you're connected to shore power. "Save the Propane" for the Apocalypse. If you're boondocking overnight somewhere, it will still be OK on 120V. As long as it's cold inside, it doesn't cycle on and off very much if you're not opening and closing the door often.


My previous TT was an Open Range 323RLS with residential fridge. I worked with the engineers and builders at the factory for weeks to get them to build me one with the propane/120V set up in place of the residential model. I told them a residential fridge makes no sense in a TT that doesn't have a generator. They finally agreed. It gave me more cabinet space and made camping much more versatile, as we boondock a lot and for 5-10 days sometimes. As a result, they changed the standard equipment going forward to my set up with the residential fridge as an upgrade. I tried the same thing with Thor on the Super C...they wouldn't do it. The LP/120V is the best setup there is.

[Bengal]

I t is OK to run your air conditioner via generator while driving. In some instances it is recommended. I have pasted a excerpt from the Onan hand book.


Exercising Your Generator
It may seem surprising that “not” using a machine could cause performance
problems, but with RV generators that’s exactly the case. Regular “exercise” is an important part of keeping your generator healthy. Lack of exercise can cause moisture build-up and fuel system degradation that make it run poorly. In fact, in as little as 30 days, the fuel in gasoline-powered generators can begin to gum and varnish the fuel system. Fuel varnishing results in hard starting and surging. (A surging generator never settles at a stable operating speed.) To prevent such problems, it is recommended to run gasoline generators at a minimum of 50 percent capacity (2000-watts, or one air conditioner for a 4000-watt set) for two hours once every four weeks. This is necessary to help keep moving parts lubricated, expel moisture and control fuel varnishing in the carburetor. A long two-hour exercise period is preferable to several short periods. While traveling, this can be accomplished by running the air conditioning. If you own a diesel generator,
regular exercising can help reduce internal condensation and helps keep seals lubricated

[taylorbob1]

Bengal:
Good stuff
Thanks for sharing

[Chance]

Originally Posted by The Gritz Carlton

......cut..... As a result, they changed the standard equipment going forward to my set up with the residential fridge as an upgrade. I tried the same thing with Thor on the Super C...they wouldn't do it. The LP/120V is the best setup there is.

Yeah, I tried 3 different times to get them to delete the slide on an Axis 24.1 and was told they won’t make major changes. I didn’t like their response but understand it.

Regarding “best” fridge, a lot of owners think compressor refrigerators beat absorption refrigeration in many ways. They are much more efficient vs conventional fridge on electricity, lighter, take up less space, don’t have to be level, and don’t require outside venting. Right now 12V compressor refrigerators are limited in size, but as newer motorhomes become more electrified, there should be more choices in larger sizes.

[CLBeerbower]

Great point. Little fuel is way cheaper than having to do unscheduled maintenance.

[rudyhehn]

I run my generator if I'm going to be on a long trip. Certainly no problem to run it while underway. If you're not sure you can check the voltage on your status board. How to turn on my generator when it drops to 11.9

[The Gritz Carlton]

If you read the operation characteristics of an LP fridge, what makes them work best is the steady, upward flow of warm air running up the back of the fridge and escaping through the "top vent". Using the gas fridge underway will disturb this flow process a little. They are designed to operate most efficiently while sitting still. Using an inverter on the 120V side or 12V (if available) while traveling and gas at the campground is the Best Medicine.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by The Gritz Carlton

If you read the operation characteristics of an LP fridge, what makes them work best is the steady, upward flow of warm air running up the back of the fridge and escaping through the "top vent". Using the gas fridge underway will disturb this flow process a little. They are designed to operate most efficiently while sitting still. Using an inverter on the 120V side or 12V (if available) while traveling and gas at the campground is the Best Medicine.

The "operation characteristics of an LP fridge" are the same whether running on gas or 120 VAC: the only difference is the heat source; sooo, not a reason to run one on electric while underway.

[The Gritz Carlton]

..."Using the gas fridge underway will disturb this flow process a little."...

One other difference...turbulent wind...and this is a valid consideration. Ever had the pilot blow out while underway? I have on several campers over the years...so has thousands of others. A fair amount of RV's have even burned to the ground on the side of the road because of this.