Hello... AND Please help!

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Living2RV

So I just looked at you schematic and my rig. The positive on mine goes directly to a 100A breaker (I miss spoke as a 50A earlier) and then to a common splitter / terminal where there are 4 big feed wires coming off it.

I dont see a 50a breaker. Might be the issue if I can find it.

The 50 amp CB is in the very back of the battery compartment on the left side and mounted on the floor. The problem is you have to remove the back battery to see it. Unless you clean and repaint the entire battery compartment, you will never know it is there. Mine does not have a - Press to Test -button, but it does have a small yellow flag to show it is tripped. You push the flag up into the cavity to reset it.

[Living2RV]

We rolled back in today and have been cleaning up. Fantastic time at the Oregon coast in sunny 75 degree weather!!!! What? Amazing.

We love the RV overall. We are kinda new to this. I am a good mechanic, mediocre to sad electrician. As luck would have it I got a full hookup site and we "lived large" ha ha ha. Noobs on the loose. We had sooo much fun.

But before we go further I wan to say... WOW thanks for the responses. I quickly went out on the dark and tried to trace the positives to a breaker. Sadly I did not find it. Was hoping for a quick fix. I'll look more tomorrow.

I'd love to resolve this my self, as in without a shop if possible . I like to fix things and as we plan to boondock some I want to know how to fix my RV. I've been a life long motorcyclist and owned hundreds of bikes and worked in the industry so I know my way around mechanical and fab equipment.

[Living2RV]

Originally Posted by Beau388

The 50 amp CB is in the very back of the battery compartment on the left side and mounted on the floor. The problem is you have to remove the back battery to see it. Unless you clean and repaint the entire battery compartment, you will never know it is there. Mine does not have a - Press to Test -button, but it does have a small yellow flag to show it is tripped. You push the flag up into the cavity to reset it.

You are referring to the house deep cycle battery area right? Mine has the big house battery, the 100A resettable breaker, the three way splitter on the right. On the left inside is the hydraulic pump for the self leveling and nothing else. Just looked. Had hopped you were right!!!

Or do you mean up front by the motor battery?

[Living2RV]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Get a flashlight out and follow the positive cables. I told you it is hard to see. One of the first things I did with mine was relocate that breaker closer to the outside of the compartment.

I looked, could not find it. Will look again tomorrow. Location?

Thank you.

[Living2RV]

Originally Posted by Bob Nodine

Lithium batteries requires a different charge profile so you may need to check your converter and see if it supports Lithium batteries.

As for the lights only working when plugged into shore power or running the generator points direct to the battery not suppling power to the coach. I would take a very close look at the circuit breaker 16ACE27 posted about. This problem should be easy to find using a multimeter set on the 20 volt DC range. Connect the black common to frame ground and use the positive (RED) lead to test for 12 volts DC. Start at the battery post. Test the actual post and then move to the clamp or terminal and then down the line until you find where 12 volts DC is no longer present. There was a guy who put in a new battery and did not remove the protective plastic caps over the battery post and just placed the battery cable clamp over the plastic cover. I am not saying you did the same but telling you that so you understand how important it is to test both the post and the clamp/terminal. I once purchased a new device that would not work. It turned out that the individual who put the terminal on the end of the wire did not strip the insulation off the wire and just crimped the terminal over the insulation. When you are troubleshooting you must not make any assumptions.

Thank you for taking the time. I'll do the trace as best I can.

[Living2RV]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Pictures in that thread are of the wrong latching relay. The OP's relay looks like:



which is under the L-shaped couch behind the Power center.

Nice, thank you. I'll look at this tomorrow. This does the shore power to 12v power switching?

[Living2RV]

[Living2RV]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

This is what my OEM 50 amp DC breaker looked like. Note it does NOT have a test button.

Where was that located please?

[Living2RV]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

I just reread this. Seems you have the 100 amp leg connected to the battery that SPLITS to the levelers pump and the generator starting circuit.

On mine there are two more leads that go directly to the battery positive:
The 50 amp lead as discussed above, and
The Trombetta solenoid lead, also discussed above.

Maybe those leads fell down during the battery swap and are not connected to anything?

Almost 100% sure its all installed right. Very simple, no loose wires, touched nothing but the battery leads. I'll look again tomorrow. Had this issues crop up before the battery swap which actually prompted the battery swap. It needed it anyway so I'm good there.

[Living2RV]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Did you resolve your issues? Did you make the camping trip?

Yes and it was amazing. LOVE the RV. We got a full hook up site so saved the trip some.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Living2RV

Nice, thank you. I'll look at this tomorrow. This does the shore power to 12v power switching?

No, the SP to 12 VDC CONVERTER is located in the Power Center at the bottom. This is the battery disconnect latching relay controlled by the USE/STORE switch. This is what should CLUNK when you shift from USE to STORE or vice-versa.

Originally Posted by Living2RV

Where was that located please?

Inside the battery bay, beyond the batteries, towards the front. As I recall, it was mounted on an L-shaped bracket facing towards the center of the RV.

You may notice everything I have relayed to you comes from my experience with my 2016 ACE 27.1.

[Living2RV]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

No, the SP to 12 VDC CONVERTER is located in the Power Center at the bottom. This is the battery disconnect latching relay controlled by the USE/STORE switch. This is what should CLUNK when you shift from USE to STORE or vice-versa.



Inside the battery bay, beyond the batteries, towards the front. As I recall, it was mounted on an L-shaped bracket facing towards the center of the RV.

You may notice everything I have relayed to you comes from my experience with my 2016 ACE 27.1.

same year and model and obviously different setup. Seems they built all these on the fly ha ha ha.

moved the battery to look behind it. No 50A breaker on mine there. Have looked all around the battery box.

Like I said, mine is super simple and there were two leads for the battery as stock. (there was the jumper from one 6V battery to the other 6V battery series) As seen here below.

Positive to the 100A breaker

Breaker to Lug / Splitter

4 big wires off that

Ground straight to frame ground lug.

brand new battery showing full voltage.



Going to go crawl around more and find that darn 50A breaker!!!

[Living2RV]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Pictures in that thread are of the wrong latching relay. The OP's relay looks like:



which is under the L-shaped couch behind the Power center.

How do we have the same rig and it is so much different?

Nothing like that located under the couch in my 2016 Thor 27.1

Much appreciate the help though.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Living2RV

same year and model and obviously different setup. Seems they built all these on the fly ha ha ha.

moved the battery to look behind it. No 50A breaker on mine there. Have looked all around the battery box.

Like I said, mine is super simple and there were two leads for the battery as stock. (there was the jumper from one 6V battery to the other 6V battery series) As seen here below.

Positive to the 100A breaker

Breaker to Lug / Splitter

4 big wires off that

Ground straight to frame ground lug.

brand new battery showing full voltage.



Going to go crawl around more and find that darn 50A breaker!!!

Your battery bay is the same as mine was.
The ground lug is the same.
The 100 Amp breaker is in the same place.

But who knows what previous owners (PO) have done as the coach came with two 12 volt batteries in parallel, not two 6 volt batteries in series.

You need to trace out the 4 big wires off the splitter need to be traced out. They should go:

One to the solenoid on the leveler motor.
One to the generator for starting
One to the Trombetta relay for connecting to the battery bank
One to the 50 amp breaker and then to the battery disconnect latching relay behind the power center.

It is possible a PO simply removed the 50 amp breaker and decided the 100 amp breaker was "good enough" for everything. as that is not standard wiring.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Living2RV

How do we have the same rig and it is so much different?

Nothing like that located under the couch in my 2016 Thor 27.1

Much appreciate the help though.

Did you look under the mess of wires and heater tube?

Where does the red cable coming out of the back of the power center go?

[Living2RV]

Thanks.

The guy before me knew nothing. And I'm sure this all worked when we bought it. I remeber looking at the RV with the lights on and not plugged in, running or generator running.

Verified 100% power to the splitting lug.

Generator starts fine.

and the plot thickens as the storage bay lights work. so... there is house power getting to them. Seems just the house lights are not getting 12v power.

I disconnected the motor battery to make sure the storage lights were not hooked to that. They still work with the chassis battery disconnected and no shore power so they have to be running off the house battery.

The heater fan does not work (it should on house power right?)

The master bedroom ceiling fan and bathroom fan dont work, they should work off house power right? What else should run off house 12V? Stove light and fan dont work.

[Living2RV]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Did you look under the mess of wires and heater tube?

Nothing there. The orange wire is the only wire that goes under those tubes.

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Where does the red cable coming out of the back of the power center go?

attaches in the power center to the top breaker



Then goes to this box...



Then exits the area under those heater tubes. I can crawl back under and trace it from there.

[Living2RV]

Also I get no readings at the control panel. You hit battery and they light for a second and go dark. Noting indicates levels etc.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Living2RV

Nothing there. The orange wire is the only wire that goes under those tubes.




attaches in the power center to the top breaker



Then goes to this box...



Then exits the area under those heater tubes. I can crawl back under and trace it from there.

No, the red cable is a DC positive cable so it does not connect to AC circuit breakers. The orange romex to the left connects to the top (MAIN/Input) breaker. The red cable comes from the DC buss and is supposed to connect to the battery disconnect latching relay which in my coach is just to the left of the heater tube on the floor buried under the wire mess.

Did you say you can hear the latching relay shift when cycling the USE/STORE switch? If so, have someone cycle it and find the source of the clunk.

The 12 VDC house buss supplies the following loads:
Inside lights
Ceiling fans
Control power for the fridge
Control power for the water heater
Control power for the furnace
Main power for the dash radio
The furnace fan
Storage area lights
Control power for the thermostat
Control power to operate the roof A/C
The USB charging ports in the bedroom vanity area
The bedroom radio
The slide controls
The leveler hydraulic pump and controller
The tanks level system
The battery level indicator

I may have forgot something as this list is just off the top of my head.

[Living2RV]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

No, the red cable is a DC positive cable so it does not connect to AC circuit breakers. The orange romex to the left connects to the top (MAIN/Input) breaker. The red cable comes from the DC buss and is supposed to connect to the battery disconnect latching relay which in my coach is just to the left of the heater tube on the floor buried under the wire mess.

so the breaker box / inverter are 12v only? or a mix of 12v and 110v?

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Did you say you can hear the latching relay shift when cycling the USE/STORE switch? If so, have someone cycle it and find the source of the clunk.

Yes. The clunk comes from in front of the RV, behind the grill and in the power justion box. It is working as the dash radio and the storage bin lights turn on and off as you toggle the use/storage switch.

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

The 12 VDC house buss supplies the following loads:
Inside lights
Ceiling fans
Control power for the fridge
Control power for the water heater
Control power for the furnace
Main power for the dash radio
The furnace fan
Storage area lights
Control power for the thermostat
Control power to operate the roof A/C
The USB charging ports in the bedroom vanity area
The bedroom radio
The slide controls
The leveler hydraulic pump and controller
The tanks level system
The battery level indicator

I may have forgot something as this list is just off the top of my head.

only the storage bin lights and dash stereo work right now. All other have no power.

I have the shore power disconnected ands the chassis battery disconnected so the only power source is the house battery.

Thoughts?