Atwood Water Heater won’t light!

VanCampFarm · 02-13-2021, 04:48 PM

Hi everyone! Currently in the desert right now, my hot water wearer won’t light. It says it has a pilot on the panel but won’t even attempt to light. Like it won’t light then fail
And tell me the pilot is out. Just nothing at all

Can I light it manually?

2015 Thor Ace 30.1 evo

lwmcguire · 02-13-2021, 05:27 PM

Propane on and tank full?

clean the ignitor and most newer units can't be safely lit manually

**16ACE27** · 02-13-2021, 05:36 PM

You don't have a pilot light, you have a DSI ignitor that lights the main flame when called for. The "pilot" light is a throwback to when they had pilot lights - it is now a lighting fault indicator light. When the water heater is unsuccessful in lighting the main flame it turns that light on.

VanCampFarm · 02-13-2021, 05:48 PM

Yes sir, propane tank is full and the stove tops are burning.

I flip the switch to turn the light on and nothing happens. The “pilot” doesn’t turn on electrically but the light to let me know the “pilot” is out doesn’t turn on when it’s in fact not lite.

**16ACE27** · 02-13-2021, 09:24 PM

Sounds like you're turning on the electric heating element which does not utilize the "pilot out" light. In most Thor RVs there is no electric on light. Are you getting hot water?

Quote:

Originally Posted by VanCampFarm

Yes sir, propane tank is full and the stove tops are burning.

I flip the switch to turn the light on and nothing happens. The “pilot” doesn’t turn on electrically but the light to let me know the “pilot” is out doesn’t turn on when it’s in fact not lite.

VanCampFarm · 02-13-2021, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Sounds like you're turning on the electric heating element which does not utilize the "pilot out" light. In most Thor RVs there is no electric on light. Are you getting hot water?

No sir, no hot water.

Earlier it did warm up the water for about 30min. It got breezy here so I figured it blew the pilot out, however the light that shows when the pilot is out was not lite.

I tried again when the wind calmed down. The pilot didn’t light and the light wasn’t lite to tell me it wasn’t lite. Almost like it’s not even attempting to light it electrically.

VanCampFarm · 02-13-2021, 11:18 PM

I cleaned the igniter as well

VanCampFarm · 02-13-2021, 11:19 PM

There’s a photo of my panel

cavie · 02-14-2021, 12:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VanCampFarm

No sir, no hot water.

Earlier it did warm up the water for about 30min. It got breezy here so I figured it blew the pilot out, however the light that shows when the pilot is out was not lite.

I tried again when the wind calmed down. The pilot didn’t light and the light wasn’t lite to tell me it wasn’t lite. Almost like it’s not even attempting to light it electrically.

Stop using the word "Pilot". You don't have one. It is an electronic ignighter just like your BBQ. It ignites each time it needs to come on. Just like your BBQ. Switch inside when using gas coms on when you turn it on then goes out when the heater lights. It tries that 3 times. If it does not light the red light will stay lit. Some, like mine, use small blue dot light next to the switch. It works the same way. Check to see if you have 12 volts for the control and ignighter. If it has been working and at some point you see the red light lit all the time, the WH is not working.

VanCampFarm · 02-14-2021, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cavie

Stop using the word "Pilot". You don't have one. It is an electronic ignighter just like your BBQ. It ignites each time it needs to come on. Just like your BBQ. Switch inside when using gas coms on when you turn it on then goes out when the heater lights. It tries that 3 times. If it does not light the red light will stay lit. Some, like mine, use small blue dot light next to the switch. It works the same way. Check to see if you have 12 volts for the control and ignighter. If it has been working and at some point you see the red light lit all the time, the WH is not working.

I understand it’s not a pilot. However if you look at the photo of the panel i provided it has an indicator light saying “pilot out” . Which I understand means the igniter didn’t lite.

That like that in your opinion should read “igniter not igniting” is not lighting up. It usually would light then try again and again a few time till the igniter lights the flame for the heater. My problem is, it’s not igniting.

I can check the 12volts I definitely haven’t done that yet. I’ll need to take that panel off to check the 12volts at the spot correct?

OldWEB · 02-14-2021, 06:42 PM

Reading the brochure for your model, I read the 30.1 has an electric portion to the WH, so that begs the question where is that switch on your panel? Could it be one of the two switches below it? Also there are to be tank heaters...

EDIT: Not that any of this pertains to your original question, but any info helps, like what make/model of heater is it?

• Below-Floor Mounted 6-gallon DSI Gas/Electric Water Heater (27.1, 29.2 & 30.1)

• Heated & Enclosed Holding Tanks(27.1, 29. 2 & 3 0 .1)

**16ACE27** · 02-14-2021, 10:58 PM

It's not an "Ignitor not igniting" light either - it's a flame not flaming light. The ignitor is just one of multiple things that have to work properly for the gas water heater to heat the water. That light indicates there is a problem with the water heater not running to heat the water after the controller has directed it to and it has not after time out period.

Quote:

Originally Posted by VanCampFarm

I understand it’s not a pilot. However if you look at the photo of the panel i provided it has an indicator light saying “pilot out” . Which I understand means the igniter didn’t lite.

That like that in your opinion should read “igniter not igniting” is not lighting up. It usually would light then try again and again a few time till the igniter lights the flame for the heater. My problem is, it’s not igniting.

I can check the 12volts I definitely haven’t done that yet. I’ll need to take that panel off to check the 12volts at the spot correct?

VanCampFarm · 02-15-2021, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

It's not an "Ignitor not igniting" light either - it's a flame not flaming light. The ignitor is just one of multiple things that have to work properly for the gas water heater to heat the water. That light indicates there is a problem with the water heater not running to heat the water after the controller has directed it to and it has not after time out period.

Well the flame not flaming light doesn’t work.

When flipped the ignitor doesn’t even attempt to arch to start the heating process. I’m going to blow out the gas tide and check voltage then see what happens. I don’t know if there is a type of sensor, jet, or thermal tube that got clogged or malfunctioned during the wind storm we had when it went out.

You should contact Thor and ask them for a bigger panel to fit the actual description or smaller font to fit ‘Flame not flaming” lol

We all understand it’s not a pilot, we aren’t in the 50’s. But the common term “pilot” is being used here simply as an easy reference to the “flame that heats water”.

VanCampFarm · 02-15-2021, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldWEB

Reading the brochure for your model, I read the 30.1 has an electric portion to the WH, so that begs the question where is that switch on your panel? Could it be one of the two switches below it? Also there are to be tank heaters...

EDIT: Not that any of this pertains to your original question, but any info helps, like what make/model of heater is it?

• Below-Floor Mounted 6-gallon DSI Gas/Electric Water Heater (27.1, 29.2 & 30.1)

• Heated & Enclosed Holding Tanks(27.1, 29. 2 & 3 0 .1)

Ill look at the model and get back to you on that. Thank you!

I know that I only have one switch inside the coach to start the heater. That seems to send a signal to an igniter to ignite the LP to start the heating process. The ignitor isn’t arching when the switch is flipped and the light that comes on during the “timed out” period doesn’t come one either, almost like leading me to believe it’s on and working. I’ll try to check what I can electrically then blow out the line and see where that gets me. I’ll check the model number however and get back to you, thank you.

**16ACE27** · 02-15-2021, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VanCampFarm

Ill look at the model and get back to you on that. Thank you!

I know that I only have one switch inside the coach to start the heater. That seems to send a signal to an igniter to ignite the LP to start the heating process. The ignitor isn’t arching when the switch is flipped and the light that comes on during the “timed out” period doesn’t come one either, almost like leading me to believe it’s on and working. I’ll try to check what I can electrically then blow out the line and see where that gets me. I’ll check the model number however and get back to you, thank you.

So to recap:

You have a gas only water heater.
You turn it ON at the panel and nothing happens - no spark, no error light, no hot water.
Either the fuse that supplies the water heater is blown or another problem is preventing 12 VDC from getting to the water heater control board, or
Your control board is bad.

If you got the "Pilot Out" light (Atwood refers to it as the "lockout light") there would be a host of other possible trouble sources.

Here's a troubleshooting guide and schematic that may be useful:

http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...ting-Guide.pdf

http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...Schematics.pdf
**3rd diagram should be for your model

OldWEB · 02-15-2021, 04:29 PM

Your links are not working.

**16ACE27** · 02-15-2021, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldWEB

Your links are not working.

Ahh yes; the dreaded ...... truncation in the links. Thanks for letting me know - it should be fixed now.

VanCampFarm · 02-15-2021, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

So to recap:

You have a gas only water heater.
You turn it ON at the panel and nothing happens - no spark, no error light, no hot water.
Either the fuse that supplies the water heater is blown or another problem is preventing 12 VDC from getting to the water heater control board, or
Your control board is bad.

If you got the "Pilot Out" light (Atwood refers to it as the "lockout light") there would be a host of other possible trouble sources.

Here's a troubleshooting guide and schematic that may be useful:

http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...ting-Guide.pdf

http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...Schematics.pdf
**3rd diagram should be for your model

Thank you! I still can’t get the link to work but I’ll keep trying.

And yes your breakdown is correct as far as what’s going on. I checked the breaker under the bed but don’t recall a fuse for that ignitor. I saw a breaker and it was labeled for micro (I’m assuming microwave) and water hrt. It wasn’t popped but I can try resetting that anyway to see if it helps.

So I’ll take a look at the fuse box under the bed again. Would there be any other locations for that fuse you know of?

**16ACE27** · 02-15-2021, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VanCampFarm

Thank you! I still can’t get the link to work but I’ll keep trying.

And yes your breakdown is correct as far as what’s going on. I checked the breaker under the bed but don’t recall a fuse for that ignitor. I saw a breaker and it was labeled for micro (I’m assuming microwave) and water hrt. It wasn’t popped but I can try resetting that anyway to see if it helps.

So I’ll take a look at the fuse box under the bed again. Would there be any other locations for that fuse you know of?

The links are to a PDF file. If you're trying on your phone (and some PCs) clicking on the link just downloads the PDF file to your device.

We are talking 12 VDC for the water heater. The breakers in your distribution panel are for 120 VAC loads. The fuses are for 12 VDC loads. It may be labeled "Appliances" but I wouldn't chase fuses until you verify lack of 12 VDC to the controller board on your water heater with a voltmeter. If you have 12 VDC then there's no need to hunt fuses.

JimOIB · 02-15-2021, 11:51 PM

I found an earlier post that has limited information - https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f1...nel-10450.html

I also found this wiring diagram. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/201...am-212872.html

I suspect the two unlabeled switches under the main control panel are the 120v for the water heater and 12v for the tank heaters.

The big question is are you on shore power or boondocking? If you are on shore power and the 120v to the WH is on then the tank is probably at temp and the propane would not come on even with the switch to on.

If you are boondocking, turn on the genset and wait 15 minutes to see if you have hot water. That will at least tell you the AC side of the WH is good.

If neither are the case then you need to troubleshoot 12v as others have suggested.

Since your WH is in the way back of the coach it may take 30 seconds or so for hot water to come out your kitchen faucet. Keep that in mind.

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