Here's one for you backyard mechanics

[Parne]

2014 Thor Palazzo:

I brought this one up a couple of months ago and all swore there had to be a water leak somewhere.

For 3 months now the pump comes on every 2 seconds for 5 seconds when the fresh water tank is selected. 1st thing I did was change the water pump out myself. No change

No water leak. Finely took it to a reliable RV repair guy. He had to put a stethoscope on it but determined it was the water selector valve allowing fresh water to return to the tank.

I would of never thought about that one.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by Parne

2014 Thor Palazzo:

I brought this one up a couple of months ago and all swore there had to be a water leak somewhere.

For 3 months now the pump comes on every 2 seconds for 5 seconds when the fresh water tank is selected. 1st thing I did was change the water pump out myself. No change

No water leak. Finely took it to a reliable RV repair guy. He had to put a stethoscope on it but determined it was the water selector valve allowing fresh water to return to the tank.

I would of never thought about that one.

A check valve would have been first on my list... with no apparent leaks. And with that pump running THAT much you would have had a gusher!!

The leaking valve was acting like a bad check valve.

[Parne]

My thoughts were it was the hot water heater or the fresh water tank circulation. BUT HOW>

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Parne

2014 Thor Palazzo:

I brought this one up a couple of months ago and all swore there had to be a water leak somewhere.

For 3 months now the pump comes on every 2 seconds for 5 seconds when the fresh water tank is selected. 1st thing I did was change the water pump out myself. No change

No water leak. Finely took it to a reliable RV repair guy. He had to put a stethoscope on it but determined it was the water selector valve allowing fresh water to return to the tank.

I would of never thought about that one.

That's called a water leak. Water is leaking past a place it is not supposed to. Not all leaks result with water leaving the system.

[Parne]

OK. I was just glad to not see water poring out from bottom of the RV.

I posted the above to show guys, its not always what we think it might be. I thought it was the pump. I was wrong.

[OldWEB]

Originally Posted by Parne

2014 Thor Palazzo:

I brought this one up a couple of months ago and all swore there had to be a water leak somewhere.

For 3 months now the pump comes on every 2 seconds for 5 seconds when the fresh water tank is selected. 1st thing I did was change the water pump out myself. No change

No water leak. Finely took it to a reliable RV repair guy. He had to put a stethoscope on it but determined it was the water selector valve allowing fresh water to return to the tank.

I would of never thought about that one.

So I found that original posting....
https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f8...lem-27182.html

You brought up the problem looking for answers and let people just grasp at straws and did not reply back!! Why would you then start a new post (not close out the original one) and hint that we are some hicks, you found a 'reliable RV guy' you say, we are "Backyard mechanics"... well that RV guy was able to physically check the system while us hicks were allowed to grasp at straws, giving suggestions to a one poster with NO feedback.

You got on my ignore list and I will NOT help another "one poster' again, at least until they truly want my help and will provide feedback and not sarcasm.

[Parne]

Sorry oldWEB if I got your panties all bound up.

The title should have read "for US backyard mechanics", referring to myself as a back yard mechanic also, trying to save on the costly hourly rate of RV mechanics. The "reliable" mechanic was meant as a compliment to the mechanic I found, not a reference to us. Never called you or anyone else a "HICK". Just trying to save money.

My original post was June 27th, more than 2 months ago, and I just found out a few days ago what the problem was, thus the delay and starting a new post. Why would I make more posts on the original when I did not have a answer. And by the way. I have made NUMERIOUS posts asking mechanical questions and trying to help others out with their problems. So don't know where you came up with the "one poster" idea.

The purpose of my post was to let guys/mechanics know another solution to a not so recurring RV problem.

Fine if you want to put me on ignore. but you might want to get rid of the skirt and get a fine pair of mechanics coveralls if your so sensitive to someone trying to assist other RV owners of a solution to a problem.

[Campnjoe]

I assume by water selector you mean the Anderson valve. Apparently they are the bain of many a palazzo owner. Did you replace it or what?

[Parne]

Yes sir Joe.

I ordered a all new Anderson water panel from Lazyday's in Elkhart. Being their near the Thor factory they just sent their pick up guy to the factory to get the replacement. Includes the panel for the water selector, hot water heater bypass valve and water hose hook up connector. All done in one day. total damage $350. Ill have the mechanic replace it at the end of the month when I can leave my Palazzo with him for a few days. Mechanic mentioned when he was troubleshooting the connections that the original Anderson panel was all plastic, the replacement was all brass, so I assume, as you mentioned, that the Anderson panels have been pragmatic. Anyone else having problems with their Anderson water panel?

This one may be to much for MY backyard mechanical skills. Tho I and many of us try to do as much as we can.

Thanks for the good question Joe.

[Wiley1]

Originally Posted by Parne

I ordered an all new Anderson water panel from Lazyday's in Elkhart.

(This is where I expose my ignorance of Palazzo and Anderson)

Couldn't this problem have been solved just by adding a cheap little inline check-valve, like the one many of us have at the City Water inlet?

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by OldWEB

So I found that original posting....
https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f8...lem-27182.html

You brought up the problem looking for answers and let people just grasp at straws and did not reply back!! Why would you then start a new post (not close out the original one) and hint that we are some hicks, you found a 'reliable RV guy' you say, we are "Backyard mechanics"... well that RV guy was able to physically check the system while us hicks were allowed to grasp at straws, giving suggestions to a one poster with NO feedback.

You got on my ignore list and I will NOT help another "one poster' again, at least until they truly want my help and will provide feedback and not sarcasm.

Well said sir, I agree with you 100%; not to ding on the OP; but it is a pattern at large that I see of 1 and done posters; that can be very frustrating for those that are blessed to be able to offer us free assistance. More often that not the information we learn is more reliable than some RV mechanics.

Now I have question, isn't it unsanitary to have water returned to the fresh water tank? If so, why the does the design even allow? Is there 2 incoming ports two the freshwater tank or something?

[Wiley1]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

Now I have question, isn't it unsanitary to have water returned to the fresh water tank? If so, why the does the design even allow? Is there 2 incoming ports two the freshwater tank or something?

I don't see how it could be unsanitary to have water flowing backward into the FW tank. Where did that water come from originally? Only two places: either the gravity fill or the City Water connection. It is a mostly sealed system, regardless of which way the water flows.

Perhaps you're thinking that dirty water might enter from the toilet, shower, or sink. I don't believe that is a concern because, in this scenario, all those valves would be closed, so all hot and cold water pipes would have some amount of positive pressure.

When the pipes are blown out with air for winterization, I see that operation as more likely to introduce contaminants which might grow all winter long.

The FW tank air vent could also be a source of contamination. Once I found that mud wasps (or spiders?) had clogged mine. Rather than push the mud down into the tank, I chose to disconnect the hose from the inside and push the mud back out to the outside world.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Wiley1

I don't see how it could be unsanitary to have water flowing backward into the FW tank. Where did that water come from originally? Only two places: either the gravity fill or the City Water connection. It is a mostly sealed system, regardless of which way the water flows.

Perhaps you're thinking that dirty water might enter from the toilet, shower, or sink. I don't believe that is a concern because, in this scenario, all those valves would be closed, so all hot and cold water pipes would have some amount of positive pressure.

When the pipes are blown out with air for winterization, I see that operation as more likely to introduce contaminants which might grow all winter long.

The FW tank air vent could also be a source of contamination. Once I found that mud wasps (or spiders?) had clogged mine. Rather than push the mud down into the tank, I chose to disconnect the hose from the inside and push the mud back out to the outside world.

No I was NOT talking or thinking waste water although a poster on this forum claimed his RV had the black tank plumbed to his shower's incoming water line

I was thinking something unsanitary like for those that may backfill with RV antifreeze ( I don't), but in the OPs case if he pumped in RV Antifreeze with the leak, couldn't / wouldn't some of that unknowing flow back to the fresh water tank? That was my question anyway. My belief before this thread is that it would be design wise impossible for ANY freshwater already pumped from the freshwater tank; to be able to leak back into the same fresh water tank from another point? I am talking from design perspective. I only know of one line out to main water supply, and one overflow valve which is one way. I have been verifying my overflow is not clogged & flowing properly unintended. By filling my tank full every time I need water, I use the presence of water overflowing out the back as trigger to turn the water out. My goal is to get maximum water possible BEFORE every trip, but since you state the clog concern with overflow line, you give me another solid reason to continue to overfill my water tank

[Parne]

Replaced the old 4 way Anderson selector valve with the newer 3 way valve. Only thing you have to change over is the two hot water connections. FIXED THE LEAKING PROBLEM BACK INTO THE FRESH WATER TANK. Pump works normally now.

Only problem now is the hot water does not work when the pump is selected. Works fine on city hook up. Go figure!!!

[Lt Keefer]

Sure are a lot of jerks on the internet.