house batteries go dead while driving - Page 2

The_Breeze · 12-03-2018, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TurnerFam

...Also, your USE/STORE door-side momentary two-way switch controls the RV CUSTOM PRODUCTS latching relay, which is similar to the other devices but only 'switches' to CONNECT or DISCONNECT the House batteries.

Is this switch in the Use or Store position when connected to shore power to charge the batteries?

TIA.

TurnerFam · 12-03-2018, 08:14 PM

there's really NEVER any reason to turn your 12v system OFF, otherwise using the STORE switch, as whether you are on shore power, generator power, traveling, or just camping, you'll always need 12v service for lights, fans, furnace, etc.

Only use the STORE side of the switch when you are actually STORING your RV, with no power, and you'll not be using it.

You'll normally always want the switch UP, in the USE position. Now, the switch is a 'momentary' switch, meaning that when you push it UP, for USE, it will energize the RV CUSTOM PRODUCTS latching relay to CONNECT your house batteries to your 12v fuse panel, giving you access to all your 12v items.
When you press the switch down, in the store position, you are UNLatching the device, DISCONNECTING your 12v batteries from your fuse box.

Oneilkeys · 12-03-2018, 08:17 PM

Two things. My BIRD was miswired at the factory so that shore or generator power did not charge the chassis battery. So it is possible that the BCC or BIRD was wired wrong at the factory - if this a new coach. Also very possible that the BIRD or BCC is bad. Secondly, at least in the Axis/Vegas the coach batteries will not charge off the alternator unless the Use/store is in the Use position, a common problem, especially because of where the switch is located. It is easy to hit it by mistake going in or out of the door. In the Axis, however, the radio and backup camera do not work either so you generally get a quick clue.

The_Breeze · 12-03-2018, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TurnerFam

...to CONNECT your house batteries to your 12v fuse panel, giving you access to all your 12v items.
When you press the switch down, in the store position, you are UNLatching the device, DISCONNECTING your 12v batteries from your fuse box.

Thanks. Brain fart (I think?). I wasn't connecting the dots for how this switch charges the house batteries and why this is in the USE position when driving. The alternator must run to the fuse panel and back out to the house batteries. I have the wiring schematic from Thor and don't see it(or it's not published). Seems like an awfully long electrical run to me. I'm sure they had their reasons?

Beau388 · 12-03-2018, 09:10 PM

There are two high amperage separate relays in the 12 volt system. One is the Bi-directional relay that connects the two battery banks, either automatically by differential battery voltage potential or manually by a momentary dash switch. This relay is usually found either in the engine compartment near the chassis battery or in the house battery compartment. The second relay is located near the power center and disconnects the house batteries from the power panel 12 volt fuse bank and converter. This is an on/off latching relay that is controlled by the "salesman switch" or use/store switch.

TurnerFam · 12-03-2018, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RvEd

Thanks. Brain fart (I think?). I wasn't connecting the dots for how this switch charges the house batteries and why this is in the USE position when driving. The alternator must run to the fuse panel and back out to the house batteries. I have the wiring schematic from Thor and don't see it(or it's not published). Seems like an awfully long electrical run to me. I'm sure they had their reasons?

not really - this doorside USE/STORE switch is solely to disconnect, or connect, the ability to use the 12v items in your coach, essentially disconnecting your fuse panel, I suppose.

BUT, the alternator's Charge would not go to the House fuse panel, but to the 12v DC Continuous coil, which is then applied to the House batteries WHEN the BIRD senses the need... this all happens automatically, though, yes, if you Disconnect the 12v House fuse panel by switching the doorside switch to STORE, you are now disallowing this function to happen because their would no longer be any 12v power to the BIRD to make it happen.

If you consider that pressing and holding down the AUX or BatteryBoost button effectively does the same thing, it would start to hurt, and/or get annoying to have to constantly hold down that dash switch the whole time you are driving!

ggoguen · 12-05-2018, 09:07 PM

Found the problem today. I was working with Tech support from RV Custom Products, he had me checking some diodes on the BCC circuit board. He asked me to check voltage at J9, on the board. It should have chassis bat voltage, it did not. It was wired to the coach side of the boost/charge relay. I rewired it to the chassis side, and now with engine running I have 14.2 volts on both chassis and coach side of relay.
Thanks to all who responded.
G A Goguen

javelin · 12-06-2018, 01:53 AM

Glad you found the problem with tech support. Strange trouble since all of the electronic components are all mounted on one circuit board in the BCC.....strange how this could happen unless the factory reversed a diode or something during manufacture and failed to test it? You would have had the problem from new though? J9 is not obvious on the schematic but the D1/D2 diodes may power the voltage comparator sensing section of the cct board. At least you're back in business.

ggoguen · 12-06-2018, 12:57 PM

I'm not the original owner, it's a 2013, I've had it for 2 years, but only used it for some weekend outing, until last summer, when we traveled to Maine. It looks like the original owners had some battery issues, though, as there were no hold downs, straps, and such on the coach batteries.

As for the J9, it is a connection on the board, using a 1/4" nut and bolt. On the back side of board, J9 is connected with a 6 gauge cable to the boost/charge relay. J9 is marked as chassis bat, on the board, but mine was connected to the coach side of the relay. I just switched it to the chassis side, and now it's working. As far as the diodes, they are d4, d5, d26, and d27. the tech was explaining that 2 of them are connected to chassis bat, and the others to coach bat, I always had the same voltage at all of them. That's how I came to realize J9 was not on chassis side. The diodes aren't shown on the block diagram.

So I assume this was wired wrong originally, or someone took the board off and messed up.

Thanks again, to all, for the help

javelin · 12-06-2018, 02:18 PM

I see the J9 bolt/hole that hard connects to the chassis latching relay where the red 6 gauge cable also connects (top latching relay per previously posted picture of the three BCC internal relays). That must have been a nasty job getting access and testing live with RV Custom tech support. After this I hope you go forward trouble free and enjoy your coach. Thanks for sharing your problem and the solution. It helps us all learn more about our coaches.

ggoguen · 12-08-2018, 01:00 PM

Just one final note. When I travel I carry a 12 volt jump box. This was enough that I could operate my slides, and jacks, when the batteries were dead. I would recommend that every RV owner have one on hand.

JamieGeek · 12-08-2018, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ggoguen

Just one final note. When I travel I carry a 12 volt jump box. This was enough that I could operate my slides, and jacks, when the batteries were dead. I would recommend that every RV owner have one on hand.

Also helpful with a toad behind a motorhome in the event it's battery goes dead.

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