Kantleak is leaking!

[Beacher]

My 2014 Thor Hurricane 34E has developed a very slow drip at the Kantleak water manifold.

It's not a major leak, but it's been leaking long enough that the water's mineral deposits can be seen.

I can see exactly where the water is leaking from. It's coming from the nipple that connects the two valves. It's probably an easy fix with some plumbing tape. Or is it?

Has anyone removed their Kantleak water control system? There appears to be seven hand tightened connectors from the PEX tubing, and one central connection that may require a wrench? Is that the case?

[sky_blue]

Seems like your Kantleak, Kanleak! (sorry)

[TurnerFam]

ours has a slow leak as well, right at the central connection that is the 'IN' for the city water - I hope to try to reach in and tighten or add plumbers tape to that connection, though it's very difficult to reach.

[Beacher]

Update!

I finally got around to kinda fixing my Anderson Kantleak system that has been leaking.

Once I removed all of the hand tightened Pex line connectors from the valves it removed easily.

There is one central fitting between the two valves that is not removable without cutting a Pex line. So, I removed the valve on either side, (4 way on the left, and the water heater bypass on the right), and then the fitting itself. cleaned everything and used good plumbers tape on all the threads.

After 24 hours I still have tiny leak somewhere with my Kantleak. I found a few drops of water in the compartment. This is a huge improvement from the gallons I was losing with the fast drip before. Now the water pump doesn't cycle at all.

If the drip gets significantly worse I now know that it's a relatively easy, but time consuming, repair.

I am renaming the 200RV-PT valve to Doesleak. The Anderson Brass Company is now duly notified!

[Maxjr758]

Originally Posted by Beacher

Update!

I finally got around to kinda fixing my Anderson Kantleak system that has been leaking.

Once I removed all of the hand tightened Pex line connectors from the valves it removed easily.

There is one central fitting between the two valves that is not removable without cutting a Pex line. So, I removed the valve on either side, (4 way on the left, and the water heater bypass on the right), and then the fitting itself. cleaned everything and used good plumbers tape on all the threads.

After 24 hours I still have tiny leak somewhere with my Kantleak. I found a few drops of water in the compartment. This is a huge improvement from the gallons I was losing with the fast drip before. Now the water pump doesn't cycle at all.

If the drip gets significantly worse I now know that it's a relatively easy, but time consuming, repair.

I am renaming the 200RV-PT valve to Doesleak. The Anderson Brass Company is now duly notified!

Just read your post, what some 2 years later, guess what , they still leak,in the same spot ! ! ! So much for "Innovative Design" ! I did receive an email from Anderson, saying that they no longer use the 200RV-PT VALVE PANEL, and would be glad to sell me a replacement panel 200RV-WBH for $160 !
What a Rackett, provide a defective part to the manufacturer, and then sell the replacement to the consumer ! They're DOUDLE DIPPING ! ! !

[javelin]

Is this hyperlink of any value to the Kantleak folks (hope the link works since it looks like a mouthful)? It just refers to the generic valve system so not sure if it covers the latest models or not.


https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j...V5It36FhmGTjso

[Maxjr758]

Originally Posted by javelin

Is this hyperlink of any value to the Kantleak folks (hope the link works since it looks like a mouthful)? It just refers to the generic valve system so not sure if it covers the latest models or not.


https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j...V5It36FhmGTjso

Thanks javelin, that helps one to understand the correct operation of the 4 way valve. However the valves that are giving us a fit , with the steady leaking, drop from the brass fitting into the plastic tee that connects to the Hot Water Bypass valve of the 200RV-PT Water Distribution Panel.

[Sandyfou]

Go to Anderson Kantleak u will find the remedy. It might be just the small valve that goes into the arrow that u turn to select how u receive ur water and city fill our remedy was easy to install they give u directions also there's a video on YouTube cost for us was$34

[Maxjr758]

Well I finally got around to repairing the constant drip from my
" Kantleak" valve. It wasn't the valve but the brass fitting going into the plastic tee that connects the Water Heater By-Pass. I also suspect that leak, is responsible for the pump not shutting off, as I find no leak, or sign of a leak on the discharge side of the pump. I suspect the leak is allowing the pump to draw air in.
I started by removing the panel screws, and removing the first hose, which gave me clearance to carefully pull the panel out . Then starting with the hose I just disconnected I numbered the hose, and the fitting #1, with a Sharpie . Then I continued numbering, and disconnecting the lines, untill I had all lines removed. I then removed the valves from the panel. I completely disassembled the valve manifold, cleaned away all the Blue pipe Dope, cleaned all threads, then Applied a generous amount of Teflon Tape to all threaded connections.
I reassembled the valve manifold, then reinstalled the panel , reconnected the hoses in reverse order, using the numbers as guides.
I connected the fresh water hose turned on the water, NO LEAK !
TAKE THAT ANDERSON BRASS CO !
NOTE: This repair is for the fitting leak. Drip from between the 4 way valve, and the Water Heater By-Pass.