LCI Auto Level Help- Tech issue

[quantum]

Thanks, I have cleared all the codes and have been out now for 2 nights

I HAVE ONE MORE on the Hydraulics???

Everytime, last 2 nights and prior to leaving, I have leveled after I corrected the errors.

Now my concern is the front wheels always aare lifted off the ground and the weight of the cab and engine are lifted off the grounf with the fronts.

I was not on a very unlevel surface and do use blocks if the ground looks unlevel

Is this common or willI need to now try to recallibrate?

If so can you help me with the process.

Thanks Quantum

[Judge]

What are the Error Codes you are getting? That might help to deternine if there is a problem with the leveling unit or not.


Also, Auto Level is good in theory but is is far from perfect. Next the Zero Point Calibration must be done when the coach is perfectly level.

I no longer use Auto Level because I found it puts to much stress and torsional forces on the chassis. I ony manually level now.

I place a small level towards the front, another one in the middle and another one near the rear and see where I am with the level before starting. I then drop the front and rear jacks until they just touch the ground. My next step is to begin to level either the front or back and then work to adjust the side to side level. I can usualy do it with much less movement of the jacks and twisting of the chassis than using Auto Level.

[Lt Keefer]

I always use auto level as I think there is no more torsional movement than driving down the road. I would recalibrate the system using the longest level you have access to. This is also a good time to add a slight tilt so the A/C drip always comes off at the same place. I also do not allow the wheels to go off the ground when leveling. I use wooden blocks under the wheels if the site is too sloped or slanted. When working under a vehicle, one always uses jack stands to safely support the vehicle, never trusting the hydraulic jack that lifted the vehicle. Well the leveling system is hydraulic and I feel safer with the wheels touching terraferma.

[Judge]

Originally Posted by Lt Keefer

I always use auto level as I think there is no more torsional movement than driving down the road. I would recalibrate the system using the longest level you have access to. This is also a good time to add a slight tilt so the A/C drip always comes off at the same place. I also do not allow the wheels to go off the ground when leveling. I use wooden blocks under the wheels if the site is too sloped or slanted. When working under a vehicle, one always uses jack stands to safely support the vehicle, never trusting the hydraulic jack that lifted the vehicle. Well the leveling system is hydraulic and I feel safer with the wheels touching terraferma.

I disagree.....

Auto Level contributed to my front cap flexing issue. Ultimately the attachment process was inadequate but excessive twisting of the chassis during Auto Level helped to expose it.

While I was at the Thor Factory Service Center having the front cap fixed a couple months ago, the technician agreed that Auto Level can cause additional strain on the chassis and he endorced manual leveling over Auto Level.

[Bob Denman]

As soon as you start lifting the front end: the largest portion of the weight is already borne by the leveling jacks.
Once the tires are,both off the ground: you have only added the unsprung weight to the load. (Tires & suspension...)

[Kenneth Neal]

Stop using the auto level. It's too herky jerky and kept lifting the front wheels off the ground. There was so much lateral stress on the front jacks the they bent. They were replaced under warranty. You'll be much happier in the long run if you learn to level manually.

[quantum]

Originally Posted by Judge

What are the Error Codes you are getting? That might help to deternine if there is a problem with the leveling unit or not.


Also, Auto Level is good in theory but is is far from perfect. Next the Zero Point Calibration must be done when the coach is perfectly level.

I no longer use Auto Level because I found it puts to much stress and torsional forces on the chassis. I ony manually level now.

I place a small level towards the front, another one in the middle and another one near the rear and see where I am with the level before starting. I then drop the front and rear jacks until they just touch the ground. My next step is to begin to level either the front or back and then work to adjust the side to side level. I can usualy do it with much less movement of the jacks and twisting of the chassis than using Auto Level.

will try to recalibrate after I do a manual level as you suggest. I can easily do so with the remote. But as you say I'll be looking for pretty level ground to re callibrate

Thanks

Ed