Leveling Jack Hydraulic Line Blew

[RVDeacon]

Last summer I was on a long trip, driving through Ohio during the heat wave, temps were 103. I parked in a KOA with beautiful clean site pads. While leveling the driver’s side front leveling jack failed due to a line burst. Hydraulic fluid all over the clean pad. I called in a roadside assistance claim through my Good Sam membership. The tech drove from Pittsburgh, three hours away. The hydraulic line was the long one, about 10-12 feet. The Tech found an OEM part in town, but after close inspection he advised me that the OEM part would fail because of the close proximity to the engine block and heat from the engine. He drove all the way back to Pittsburgh where he had connections to get me a better hose. He returned the next day, worked under my RV for 4 hours in 100 degree heat, but he got the part installed. Good Sam argued with me because they would only pay for the OEM hydraulic hose which was cheaper. The tech explained to Good Sam Roadside Assistance why the more expensive part was needed. Eventually Good Same Roadside Assistance agreed and paid for it. Never get a OEM hydraulic hose, they are thinly insulated and easily kink!

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by RVDeacon

Last summer I was on a long trip, driving through Ohio during the heat wave, temps were 103. I parked in a KOA with beautiful clean site pads. While leveling the driver’s side front leveling jack failed due to a line burst. Hydraulic fluid all over the clean pad. I called in a roadside assistance claim through my Good Sam membership. The tech drove from Pittsburgh, three hours away. The hydraulic line was the long one, about 10-12 feet. The Tech found an OEM part in town, but after close inspection he advised me that the OEM part would fail because of the close proximity to the engine block and heat from the engine. He drove all the way back to Pittsburgh where he had connections to get me a better hose. He returned the next day, worked under my RV for 4 hours in 100 degree heat, but he got the part installed. Good Sam argued with me because they would only pay for the OEM hydraulic hose which was cheaper. The tech explained to Good Sam Roadside Assistance why the more expensive part was needed. Eventually Good Same Roadside Assistance agreed and paid for it. Never get a OEM hydraulic hose, they are thinly insulated and easily kink!

GSRSA paid for the part? I thought they only paid for labor. Like if you need a replacement tire they don't pay for the tire.


Or was it an extended warranty claim?

[EA37TS]

Originally Posted by RVDeacon

Last summer I was on a long trip, driving through Ohio during the heat wave, temps were 103. I parked in a KOA with beautiful clean site pads. While leveling the driver’s side front leveling jack failed due to a line burst. Hydraulic fluid all over the clean pad. I called in a roadside assistance claim through my Good Sam membership. The tech drove from Pittsburgh, three hours away. The hydraulic line was the long one, about 10-12 feet. The Tech found an OEM part in town, but after close inspection he advised me that the OEM part would fail because of the close proximity to the engine block and heat from the engine. He drove all the way back to Pittsburgh where he had connections to get me a better hose. He returned the next day, worked under my RV for 4 hours in 100 degree heat, but he got the part installed. Good Sam argued with me because they would only pay for the OEM hydraulic hose which was cheaper. The tech explained to Good Sam Roadside Assistance why the more expensive part was needed. Eventually Good Same Roadside Assistance agreed and paid for it. Never get a OEM hydraulic hose, they are thinly insulated and easily kink!

15 years and 3 rigs with leveling systems and never had an OEM hose blow or kink. Your experience does not constitute an industry wide problem.

Properly installed and maintained OEM parts and equipment are usually more than adequate.

[Hummelr]

Good idea about a spare line. I do not know where the line blew for sure. I did see fluid forcibly shooting out of the line near the fitting.

[Hummelr]

Hello Bassman,

When you say "most RVERS do not have the ability to check the pressure of the output of the pump but if the main relief valve sticks or their is a restriction at the relief valve then you will suffer another failure,", where can I get a pressure check done?

I priced hydraulic hoses yesterday and the hose itself costs over $12 per foot.

It is cost prohibitive to replace all remaining hoses.

If I could test the system, I would feel more comfortable.

Rick

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Hummelr

Hello Bassman,

When you say "most RVERS do not have the ability to check the pressure of the output of the pump but if the main relief valve sticks or their is a restriction at the relief valve then you will suffer another failure,", where can I get a pressure check done?

I priced hydraulic hoses yesterday and the hose itself costs over $12 per foot.

It is cost prohibitive to replace all remaining hoses.

If I could test the system, I would feel more comfortable.

Rick

The jack's pump is a a simple 1 hp (electrical) hydraulic pump capable of about 3,400 psi. The four lift lines are the 5,000 psi rated hydraulic lines with crimp-on fittings (on my coach) at each end. These lines fail because of chaffing or improper crimp at the fittings. I suppose there could be a weak section of hose as the hoses are not pressure tested before installation. The jacks are sized (9,000 to 22,000 lbs lifting force) by the installer, so that no line would ever see more than 2,500 psi pressure.


There are four low pressure return lines that supply pressure to the bottom of the ram when retracting the jacks and maintain 1,500 psi pressure to hold the jacks in the retracted position. These lines are brown in my coach and are wyed at the pump joining the lines together in pairs. These are the only lines that could potentially fail due to over pressure. Every return line failure I have seen was due to an improper crimp or chaffed line.


It would be possible to use a Tee and a 4,000 psi pressure gauge in any line to check the pressure. A master pressure gauge would show only the pressure when the pump was running and would show near zero when the pump was not running.
I assume the pump has a pressure relief valve, but I do not know of its rating. There is a 1,800 psi relief valve in series with the return lines to protect the lines in event of a failure of the 1,500 psi pump shutoff switch.


In my opinion, it is a robust system if properly installed.

[BASSMAN]

HUMMELR, without knowing what kind of system you have there are a lot of variables, in most cases there should be a fitting on the pump assembly that can be removed and a pressure gauge or a hose going to a pressure gauge can be used, my guess its either 1/8 pipe or 1/4 pipe, it could also be a O-Ring boss fitting, making up a T fitting to go between a hose and where it connects to the pump assembly is also an option, your fitting could be pipe swivel, JIC, SAE, or more common now O-Ring face fittings, you can buy a test gauge on amazon and source the fittings from a local hose company, just tell them what you are trying to do and if you still have the old hose show it to them so they can make up the T fitting, if you got the owners and parts manual of your pump it might show the test port or contact the business that built your system and ask them for the location of the test port, the relief valve in the pump is usually adjustable by an Allen wrench and a jamb nut but it should never be adjusted with out a gauge hooked up, if you are not comfortable doing this your self then a trip to a shop is in order.

[lwmcguire]

All you can test is psig, and valve functions

All that is tested each time the system is energized

Hydraulic line integrity testing short of physically examining isn't feasible