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Old 05-10-2021, 01:11 PM   #1
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THOR #23089
Low Voltage Issues

Good Morning,

I have a 2017 Thor Motorcoach Challenger 37YT and I am having low voltage issues. I just replaced both of batteries for the 12 volt system and tested the coach battery. I am hooked to a 50 Amp 220 volt shore power, but have no low voltage unless I run the engine. I have 220 and 120 voltage at the main breaker and all other breakers. I have pulled and tested all 12 volt fuses, tested voltage at the convertor and I have 120 volts coming and 12 volts out. The fuse at the battery is good and not tripped, but still no low voltage. Any ideas where else to check?

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Kevin

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Old 05-10-2021, 01:25 PM   #2
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The convertor should have 12.6 or more

Where does the convertor feed, solenoid perhaps? check voltage there in and out, it may be bad
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Old 05-10-2021, 01:57 PM   #3
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Do your 12V devices work with shore power connected like the water pump. If they do but do not work with the shore power disconnected then the use/store switch is either off or the solenoid operated by the use/store switch is bad.

David
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Old 05-10-2021, 02:01 PM   #4
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Welcome to the Forum!
This is probably a silly question; but have you made sure that all of the connections are "tight & right"?
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Old 05-10-2021, 02:20 PM   #5
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Thanks for the replies. Yes, I do have around 12.6 or higher volts at the convertor. I have checked all of the wiring connections and they were all tight. I did find a 5 amp fuse that was not properly inserted and was barely making contact to the outside of the fuse spade. I reinstall the fuse properly and heard a click at the convertor box. I am not sure where the solenoid is in the coach. Any ideas on where it would be? I did press the use and store button after I installed the new batteries and reinstalled the fuse and heard a click when I pressed the button. So I would assume that the Use/Store switch is working. At the batteries I do see another 50 amp fuse that is mounted to a bracket on the coach, but I can't get to it easily and do not know how to reset this type of fuse or if it can be reset. I did not try to run the water pump but I will try it when I get home this afternoon. Also, the automatic steps still work (the steps never stopped working) the lights and the AC started working after I changed the batteries, but still not low voltage at the controller for the jacks or the slides.
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Old 05-10-2021, 02:58 PM   #6
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At the batteries I do see another 50 amp fuse that is mounted to a bracket on the coach, but I can't get to it easily and do not know how to reset this type of fuse or if it can be reset.
Is the 50 amp device you mention similar to the one pictured below? (This one is a 100 amp, but 50 amp is similar.) If so, it is a 50 amp circuit breaker, not a fuse. If the flag is down, just push it back up to reset the circuit.
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Old 05-10-2021, 03:06 PM   #7
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Good Morning,

I have a 2017 Thor Motorcoach Challenger 37YT and I am having low voltage issues. I just replaced both of batteries for the 12 volt system and tested the coach battery. I am hooked to a 50 Amp 220 volt shore power, but have no low voltage unless I run the engine. I have 220 and 120 voltage at the main breaker and all other breakers. I have pulled and tested all 12 volt fuses, tested voltage at the convertor and I have 120 volts coming and 12 volts out. The fuse at the battery is good and not tripped, but still no low voltage. Any ideas where else to check?

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Kevin
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the lights and the AC started working after I changed the batteries, but still not low voltage at the controller for the jacks or the slides.
You say you have a low voltage problem but then continuously contradict that with "no low voltage". It's quite confusing.

Please define your problem. There are multiple voltage systems in a motorhome:
A 50 amp motorhome has 240 VAC from SP which is usually split into two 120 VAC legs for outlets, Air Conditioners, Microwave, maybe the fridge, an electric water heater element and the Converter/Charger.

You have the Chassis 12 VDC system for running the engine and its associated loads and sometimes the steps.

Then you have the 12 VDC HOUSE system which powers the interior lights, furnace, control power for the thermostat, absorption fridge and water heater; leveling jacks, slides, and some dedicated USB charging ports.

I believe you have concerns with the house system?
The converter/charger (if powered) will supply AT LEAST 13.1 VDC to the house DC buss (not 12.6 VDC as previously mentioned) if it is working correctly. It may provide up to 14.5 VDC if bulk charging the house batteries.

If not connected to SP for an hour or so and with no DC loads running the house batteries should be at about 12.6 VDC

The house batteries will also be charged by your engines' alternator when the engine is running (and the chassis battery by the converter/charger when plugged into SP).

The house batteries are disconnected from the DC buss (and the Converter/Charger) by your USE/STORE switch (in STORE). There is also a 50 amp DC breaker near the house batteries that when tripped (flag out) will also disconnect the house batteries from the DC buss.


You can trip the breaker by pushing the button and reset the breaker by pushing the flag back in. The button and flag can be any color.
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Old 05-10-2021, 03:10 PM   #8
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Is this low voltage associated with the leveling system?

If it is normal and you just start the engine to get the alternator putting out over 13 volts before operating the jacks.
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Old 05-10-2021, 03:13 PM   #9
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You say when your reinstalled the 5A fuse you heard a click at the converter box. I don't know of any solenoids in a converter box. Could you mean the solenoid somewhere near the engine was clicking?

The 5A fuse may protect the use/store actuation circuit. When you push the use/store button it pulls in the solenoid. But clicking doesn't mean that it is making contact. Many times you will get a click but the solenoid isn't passing any power. Have someone push the use/store switch while you look for the sound of the clicking. That will be the solenoid.

My guess it is bad. You can diagnose it with a voltmeter. If the battery connection is 12+V and you push the use store button and you don't get the same voltage on the load side, the solenoid is not making contact.

David

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Old 05-10-2021, 03:40 PM   #10
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Yes, the low voltage is associated with the leveling system and and the slides. The 50 amp fuse with the flag is not tripped, but I have had that problem in the past. There is another 50 Amp fuse mounted on a plate above the batteries to the right and it is triangle in shape. It hard to get to and I do not see a reset button.

I made the mistake of leaving the battery switch in the Use position all of the time and drained my batteries of fluid which is why I had to replace the batteries. I replaced the two 6 volt batteries that were wired in series to produce 12 volts with two twelve volt batteries which I wired in parallel to keep the 12 volts. The Lippert level controller to the left of the driver seat says low voltage and the low voltage does not charge off of shore power but will eventually charge when I run the engine for a few minutes. The slides also do not operate due to low voltage. The refrigerator is residential model so it only runs on 120V

I will definitely look for the solenoid when I get home this evening.
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Old 05-10-2021, 03:52 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoachKD View Post
Yes, the low voltage is associated with the leveling system and and the slides. The 50 amp fuse with the flag is not tripped, but I have had that problem in the past. There is another 50 Amp fuse mounted on a plate above the batteries to the right and it is triangle in shape. It hard to get to and I do not see a reset button.

I made the mistake of leaving the battery switch in the Use position all of the time and drained my batteries of fluid which is why I had to replace the batteries. I replaced the two 6 volt batteries that were wired in series to produce 12 volts with two twelve volt batteries which I wired in parallel to keep the 12 volts. The Lippert level controller to the left of the driver seat says low voltage and the low voltage does not charge off of shore power but will eventually charge when I run the engine for a few minutes. The slides also do not operate due to low voltage. The refrigerator is residential model so it only runs on 120V

I will definitely look for the solenoid when I get home this evening.
Lippert leveling requires 13.1 volts. Engine must be running and the voltage on the Lippert panel reading 13.1 or higher. Slides require 12 volts and engine must be off and the key off for slides to operate. If other 12v stuff is working the slides should be working or you have another issue.

Got the low voltage error on the jacks every time I powered them up when we had our Challenger.
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Old 05-10-2021, 03:52 PM   #12
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Time to get a voltmeter and go to Youtube University to learn how to use it.
If you can only clear the Levelers Panel low voltage alarm by running the engine there is another problem going on, especially if the slides won't operate.
There is also a 100 Amp DC breaker that supplies the leveler motor and the generator starting circuit, but that has nothing to do with the slides.

You need to measure your house battery voltage when plugged into SP for a start. Let us know what you see.
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Old 05-10-2021, 04:09 PM   #13
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Leaving the switch in "use" isn't what drains the water from the batteries, the constant charge/discharge does, a monthly check of the water levels should be done topping them off with distilled water. If you don't want to do this monthly task replace the batteries with AGM batteries, no maintenance required, for about twice the money or lithiums for 10+ times the money.
Also if the replacement batteries have CCA, CA or MCA followed by a number on top they are starting batteries typically used in vehicles & not the best option for rv house batteries, you need true deep cycle batteries with aH (amp hours) listed on the tops or some choose 6 volt golf cart batteries wired in series.
There's also a Lippert update out there somewhere that recommends changing that 50amp circuit breaker for the level up system to an 80amp.
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Old 05-10-2021, 04:52 PM   #14
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Thanks for all the response and valuable information, it is very appreciated! I will work on the coach when I get home and will let y'all know if I was able to get everything back working. I have had voltage issues with the RV ever since I bought it brand new in 2017 and have always had the low voltage issue with the Lippert Controller. I now realize my mistake I made leaving the battery switch in the Use position and I tried to recondition the batteries, but they were to far gone. The new batteries were marine type suited for RVs, but maybe should have went back with two 6 volts.


We have a trip planned for the end of the month so I am trying to avoid bringing the RV to the shop because they will want to keep it for at least 3 months. If I am unable to figure out the problem, does anyone know of a reputable Mobile RV Repair in the Baton Rouge, LA Area?
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Old 05-10-2021, 06:29 PM   #15
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Thanks for all the response and valuable information, it is very appreciated! I will work on the coach when I get home and will let y'all know if I was able to get everything back working. I have had voltage issues with the RV ever since I bought it brand new in 2017 and have always had the low voltage issue with the Lippert Controller. I now realize my mistake I made leaving the battery switch in the Use position and I tried to recondition the batteries, but they were to far gone. The new batteries were marine type suited for RVs, but maybe should have went back with two 6 volts.


We have a trip planned for the end of the month so I am trying to avoid bringing the RV to the shop because they will want to keep it for at least 3 months. If I am unable to figure out the problem, does anyone know of a reputable Mobile RV Repair in the Baton Rouge, LA Area?
If the "use/store" switch is anything like the battery disconnect the factory installs on their towables it DOE NOT totally/completely disconnect all the parasitic drains on the batteries. Slide motors, CO/LP detector, & clock memories are typically wired directly to the batteries bypassing the switch/disconnect. The only absolute disconnect is to remove the negative cable from the battery that goes directly to ground or add a manual disconnect to that cable to use during storage.
If plugged into shore power that switch must be set to "use" otherwise the batteries will not be. charged
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Old 05-10-2021, 06:38 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by CoachKD View Post
Thanks for all the response and valuable information, it is very appreciated! I will work on the coach when I get home and will let y'all know if I was able to get everything back working. I have had voltage issues with the RV ever since I bought it brand new in 2017 and have always had the low voltage issue with the Lippert Controller. I now realize my mistake I made leaving the battery switch in the Use position and I tried to recondition the batteries, but they were to far gone. The new batteries were marine type suited for RVs, but maybe should have went back with two 6 volts.
Are you saying that the RV had a pair of 6-volt batteries in it; and you went to a pair of 12 volt batteries?
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Old 05-10-2021, 06:52 PM   #17
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If the "use/store" switch is anything like the battery disconnect the factory installs on their towables it DOE NOT totally/completely disconnect all the parasitic drains on the batteries. Slide motors, CO/LP detector, & clock memories are typically wired directly to the batteries bypassing the switch/disconnect. The only absolute disconnect is to remove the negative cable from the battery that goes directly to ground or add a manual disconnect to that cable to use during storage.
If plugged into shore power that switch must be set to "use" otherwise the batteries will not be. charged
Disconnecting the negative cables from the house batteries will cause the bim to draw power from the chassis battery
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Old 05-10-2021, 07:17 PM   #18
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Disconnecting the negative cables from the house batteries will cause the bim to draw power from the chassis battery
Have never owned a motorhome, had several towables, so not familiar with the BIM system.
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Old 05-10-2021, 07:59 PM   #19
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Have never owned a motorhome, had several towables, so not familiar with the BIM system.
The bim connects the chassis and house batteries together. This is for charging and the emergency start switch in case either system is dead
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Old 05-11-2021, 12:16 PM   #20
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Thanks for all the response and valuable information, it is very appreciated! I will work on the coach when I get home and will let y'all know if I was able to get everything back working. I have had voltage issues with the RV ever since I bought it brand new in 2017 and have always had the low voltage issue with the Lippert Controller. I now realize my mistake I made leaving the battery switch in the Use position and I tried to recondition the batteries, but they were to far gone. The new batteries were marine type suited for RVs, but maybe should have went back with two 6 volts.


We have a trip planned for the end of the month so I am trying to avoid bringing the RV to the shop because they will want to keep it for at least 3 months. If I am unable to figure out the problem, does anyone know of a reputable Mobile RV Repair in the Baton Rouge, LA Area?
Your earlier post appeared to indicate your charger isn't turned on or working
If you boiled the batteries dry then maybe your overcharged the old ones and or failed to keep them full of distilled water
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