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Old 08-24-2020, 04:33 PM   #1
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LP portion of water heater dead

Will do nothing. No pilot out light either. No sound outside when switch is turned on at all. Works fine when using with electric switch engaged. It is an Atwood GC6AA=10E. Wiring and connections look good. I looked at the diagnostic video on the water heater and I don't think I',m getting power to it at all? Checked breaker and it is not tripped. Any ideas?

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Old 08-24-2020, 04:55 PM   #2
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no pilot light. Electric spark ignition. Gas switch must be on. Red light must be out.
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Old 08-24-2020, 05:06 PM   #3
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What year, make, model of coach?
Atwood or Suburban water heater?
If Atwood it may be the circuit board - common issue. Any lights on or blinking on the circuit board?
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Old 08-24-2020, 07:04 PM   #4
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2018 ace 29.4, attwood, GC6AA-10E, no 'pilot out' light inside on switch panel. No lights lit up on circuit board at all during electrical use or when trying to get LP function to work.
Im going to bypass switch on main panel as it seems maybe Im not getting power to the unit at all
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Old 08-24-2020, 09:37 PM   #5
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Could be the fuse on the water heater itself
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Old 08-24-2020, 10:05 PM   #6
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The 2 amp fuse is good. I am good mind to swap switches in the panel...both the electric and gas switches look identical.
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Old 08-24-2020, 11:28 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by VilleDeal View Post
The 2 amp fuse is good. I am good mind to swap switches in the panel...both the electric and gas switches look identical.
time for a volt meter and some you tube time to learn how to use it before you start swapping parts that you know nothing about.
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Old 08-24-2020, 11:58 PM   #8
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The 2 amp fuse is good. I am good mind to swap switches in the panel...both the electric and gas switches look identical.
What cavie said. Get a voltmeter and check for voltage at the control board. Did you check the fuses on your DC distribution panel?
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Old 08-25-2020, 02:54 AM   #9
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getting no voltage at control board. It is as if the switch on the main panel is not working. I am going to close the switch by jumpering it and see if that solves my problem.
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Old 08-26-2020, 12:43 AM   #10
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Had the same problem with my 6 gallon version of the same heater on my 2019 SOB. The control board was the problem (cheap Chinese item). Iím certain the warranty would have replaced it but I didnít want to make an appointment and deal with a repair place. I purchased the appropriate Dinosaur board online for about $100 and all is well. I think the factory spec board is about $70. Dinosaur board doesnít look anything like the original but was a 5 minute install and works great.
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Old 08-26-2020, 02:33 AM   #11
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shouldn't I be getting power to the board though Pete?
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Old 08-26-2020, 02:40 AM   #12
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Just found the wiring diagram... will test to see if getting 12 volts to orange power in wire going to the circuit board... if so, then the board is not sending power out to the brown wire which would indicate a failed circuit board. FYI... THANKS for everyone's input. Sorry, and yes I am a novice at this but will not send it out to be fixed.,,can't afford it.
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Old 08-26-2020, 02:41 AM   #13
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shouldn't I be getting power to the board though Pete?


To the board yes. I donít recall my troubleshooting procedure but if you arenít getting 12V on the correct wire in you should figure that out. Maybe try a jumper to that terminal. Good luck.
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Old 08-26-2020, 04:01 PM   #14
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tested power to the circuit board on the water heater itself, I have no power to the circuit board on the orange/lp wire, but do have power to the white wire when on electric.
Trying to test for power to LP switch now. The switch is opening and closing per my continuaty check, but not sure of the voltage to it... will keep checking. At this point I am confident it is a motor home problem and not a water heater unit problem.
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Old 08-26-2020, 04:18 PM   #15
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What cavie said. Get a voltmeter and check for voltage at the control board. Did you check the fuses on your DC distribution panel?
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Originally Posted by VilleDeal View Post
tested power to the circuit board on the water heater itself, I have no power to the circuit board on the orange/lp wire, but do have power to the white wire when on electric.
Trying to test for power to LP switch now. The switch is opening and closing per my continuaty check, but not sure of the voltage to it... will keep checking. At this point I am confident it is a motor home problem and not a water heater unit problem.
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Old 08-26-2020, 05:06 PM   #16
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inside switch has power and is operating correctly so I seem to have a power loss between orange wire leaving switch and the circuit board itself. Confusing on a pretty new unit with no wire problems up to this point.
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Old 08-26-2020, 06:23 PM   #17
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FIXED.... found orange wire under sink going out to water heater. Went outside under slide out and found baffle that allows access to wiring under the water heater. While massaging the wires, the LP water heater fired... Then found that loose connection was at a connector about a foot from the end of the harness that goes outside into the gas water heater section. Thanks for talking me down from the roof...lol
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Old 08-30-2020, 02:33 PM   #18
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YEP!! I've got the same problem with my 2018 Miramar... Electric works/LP Nadda, zip, nothing!! I'll have to call a mobile RV guy as I don't think I can figure this one out.
However... While i have the floor, I DO have another strange problem: Electric shut down here in the park one morning and I had to fiddle with "stuff" to get everything back on-line. BUT, my Electric Water Heater only works IF i have the Xantrex Pro Battery gizmo "ON". Got any ideas?
Thanks in advance to any replies...
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Old 08-30-2020, 03:59 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richie Rich View Post
YEP!! I've got the same problem with my 2018 Miramar... Electric works/LP Nadda, zip, nothing!! I'll have to call a mobile RV guy as I don't think I can figure this one out.
However... While i have the floor, I DO have another strange problem: Electric shut down here in the park one morning and I had to fiddle with "stuff" to get everything back on-line. BUT, my Electric Water Heater only works IF i have the Xantrex Pro Battery gizmo "ON". Got any ideas?
Thanks in advance to any replies...


When mine did that I traced it to the control board (see my earlier post). Your problem might be different from the OP. Since the electric portion works your board obviously is functioning on that side. Itís either got a problem with the igniting function or the igniter itself is bad. You can check with a voltmeter across the igniter terminals. Before spending money on a mobile repair guy you might try a dinosaur replacement board. Worked for me.
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Old 08-30-2020, 04:15 PM   #20
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i used this;

Sequence of OperationGC10A-4E & GC6A-10EPower In When the wall switch is turned on to either gas,electric or both the power moves from the wall switchto the DSI board through the Molex connector.1. Gas - When the wall switch (flame) is turned on for gasoperation, the orange wire (OR 1) is energized with DCvoltage.2. Electric - When the switch (lightning bolt) is turned on forelectric operation the white wire (WHT 2) is energized withDC voltage.The power moves from the internal board circuits to the brownwire at the (BRN 3) connection.From this point the power for gas, electric or both movesthrough the thermostat, thermal cut off and enters the boardagain at the lower (BRN 1) connection. This completes thecircuit to the lower connection on the board.When the switch for GAS ignition is turned on -1. Power is sent to the coil on the board. The coil creates aspark for ignition.2. Power is sent to (RED 4) connection. From this point, powerflows through red wire, through the ECO and to the gasvalve.When the switch for ELECTRIC is turned on -1. Power is sent from the board to the yellow wire (YLW 2). Theyellow wire carries DC voltage to the relay in the back of thewater heater. The 12 volt energizes the relay which sends the110 V to the element.Quick DiagnosticGC10A-4E & GC6A-10EFollowing the sequence of operation:No power to board through the orange or white wire.• Test for power into wall switch. If no power, check wiring,fuse, breaker, etc.• If switch has power but does not work, check to see ifswitch is wired correctly. If switch is wired correctly, replaceswitch.No power out of board at BRN 3.• Confirm power entering the board at orange (OR1), white(WHT 2) or both with the switch on.• Check molex connector for proper connection.• Bad board (replace).No power at brown (BRN 1), when calling for gas or electricoperation.• Check thermostat for voltage or continuity. Replace ifnecessary.• Check thermal cutoff for voltage or continuity. Replace ifnecessary.• Confirm molex connector is making contact.No power through red wire from RED 4.• Confirm power coming in at brown (BRN 1).• Confirm molex connector is making contact.• Bad board (replace).No power through yellow wire (YLW 2) to relay. Electricoperation only.• Confirm continuity from red (RED 4) at Molex connector toValve Ground. If the ECO or Valve coils are open then theboard will not send power to the yellow wire (YLW 2).• Confirm power coming in the brown wire (BRN 1).• Confirm molex connector is making contact.• Bad board (replace).No power through relay (electric).• Confirm AC present.• Confirm DC through yellow wire (YLW 2).• Check AC into element. No power, replace relay.• Power into element from relay (no heat), replace element
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