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Old 02-20-2020, 11:04 PM   #1
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State: Idaho
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THOR #5402
No Power!

Tuscany XTE 36mq no electric
Got to our campsite. 110 is only power source. All plugged in, monitor reads there is power but my inverter isn't going to Passthru. So pulling from the batteries. What am I doing wrong??Click image for larger version

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Old 02-20-2020, 11:42 PM   #2
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Model: Palazzo 33.3 34'bunkhouse
State: Alabama
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THOR #4735
check the breaker where you 'plugged in', first...

then check the fuse on the side of your Inverter, which could have popped/tripped

then check your own RV Main breaker in your breaker panel, and the breaker that feeds the Inverter(pass thru, Battery charger)...



something similar happened to us the other night, where we've been parked for months, suddenly 'no power'... well, what was really happening was that the Inverter was suddenly providing power, not the 50amp shore power, as it was supposed to.

I checked the main Shore breaker, o.k.
I checked my own Main breaker, o.k.
I checked and read with my voltmeter my shore cord connection to my ATS,. o.k.
My voltmeter read just fine EVERYWHERE, and yet my Inverter was still 'inverting'...

o.k., it was the 'last thing' I thought about checking - the Inverter's own Fuse, which had popped. Pushed it back in, and Shore Power was again live.

Here's what happened. It was cold. We were running several electrical space heaters, on several different circuits, one being the GFCI circuit which also has the kitchen outlets and the bathroom outlet. My wife decided to use the hair dryer, which the inverter's fuse then could not handle, and tripped/popped, even though it's breaker did not.
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'14 Palazzo 33.3 bunkhouse 34' diesel
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Old 02-21-2020, 12:00 AM   #3
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THOR #5402
I think I have tried all those things. Here are the pictures of the inverter.Click image for larger version

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Old 02-21-2020, 12:05 AM   #4
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THOR #7035
I don't know anything about the system you have but it appears you have manually set it to 15 Amp shore power but no current is being drawn. Also your batteries appear fully charged so maybe your system is not charging your batteries due to the limited available shore power current and the lack of need.
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Old 02-21-2020, 01:19 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Springn Springers View Post
I'm not God's gift to electrical problems. I see something and asked a question.

The landline shows 123v and no Amps. That doesn't compute.

The 15A landline has been hard set. If it can discover the input, let it.

Your Gen is stopped and inverter is enabled.

On the DC side, your charger is off and your inverter wants to know whether it should be enabled.

Dig into the icons at the bottom and see if it helps you. If nothing clicks, let us know where you've been and we'll see if we can help more.

Teach a man to fish.
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Old 02-21-2020, 02:16 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Breeze View Post
I'm not God's gift to electrical problems. I see something and asked a question.

The landline shows 123v and no Amps. That doesn't compute.

The 15A landline has been hard set. If it can discover the input, let it.

Your Gen is stopped and inverter is enabled.

On the DC side, your charger is off and your inverter wants to know whether it should be enabled.

Dig into the icons at the bottom and see if it helps you. If nothing clicks, let us know where you've been and we'll see if we can help more.

Teach a man to fish.
That means that there is 123 volts present and the nothing is turned on. No current is flowing. Main and/or all breakers turned off.
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Old 02-21-2020, 12:37 PM   #7
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Model: Palazzo 33.3 34'bunkhouse
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THOR #4735
after seeing your photos:

-the first is not your inverter, but a dual-inverter connection, which is not used on your coach, but probably installed since other longer coaches with 2 inverters may.
Above that photo is your FUSE for your Inverter - make sure it is pressed fully IN.

-the second photo is the back/end of the Inverter. The green light should be blinking slowly if the Inverter is ON. Pass thru of 120v shore power should happen regardless, UNLESS the fuse has popped.

-the third photo is your RV Main 120v Breaker Panel - the far RIGHT 30amp breaker should really be labeled 'INVERTER Sub-Panel', as it is the output of the Inverter to those 4 tandem breakers next to it - essentially ALL of your coach's outlets, including the fridge and the microwave. Like my Palazzo, the exact same design, this 'sub-panel' is really a separate Third POWER BUSS from the Inverter's output, even though it is housed within this same Main Panel with your other breakers.
You have a 'TV recepts' breaker, which is mainly your 'front end of the coach' outlets, a 'general recepts' breaker, which is probably most of those in the middle/rear of the coach, and your 'GFCI recepts', which are those that are wired via the bathroom's GFCI main outlet, running to/thru the kitchen, and even an outside/storage outlet. The microwave is on it's own circuit.

I don't like that THOR labels the two 30amp 'INVERTER/Charger' the same. It is confusing. The LEFT 30amp Inverter/Charger circuit is actually the SHORE POWER to the Inverter and Battery Charger, and the PASS THRU of 120v power to your sub-panel circuits(via it's 30amp breaker).
This should be labeled differently, such as 'to Inverter/Charger', and the far RIGHT labeled as 'Inverter output'...to differentiate what each is for. Oh well.

If you don't have power to ANYTHING in your Main Panel, yet you are plugging into shore power and you KNOW that you have 120v power on each of the 50amp legs(sides), then you probably have lost the power at the ATS(automatic transfer switch), which is a box located somewhere nearby the Main Panel. Mine is right behind it within the bed frame, after removing a false panel. Your layout will possibly create a different place, sometimes even outside near the incoming Shore Cord.
The ATS can have a loose connection, on either of the hot legs, or even the NEUTRAL wire, which actually happens quite often for new owners, since the tightness from the factory is not always a permanent tightness after the coach has been used for some time. A wire can become 'loose', even if it still looks like it's connected. Tighten up ALL the incoming and outgoing wires in the ATS box(without shore power or generator, of course!).

After seeing your original smart panel readout showing 120v on both legs, I'm not sure 'where' it's reading that voltage from. You can certainly also get out your voltmeter and measure the connections within your ATS, but also the outputs from your 50amp Main Breaker in your breaker panel. Those can be loose as well. Check the NEUTRAL connection in your Main panel, too.
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'14 Palazzo 33.3 bunkhouse 34' diesel
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100,000+mi since '14 - US, Alaska, Canada.... formerly Georgia, then NorthCarolina, now Alabama : )
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Old 02-21-2020, 12:47 PM   #8
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THOR #4735
also, as a side note to help more easily determine what is happening, while testing for shore power - turn OFF your inverter.

what I've found, is that while having a 'whole house' inverter that provides power to all outlets when there is no shore power or generator power, it can easily get confusing trying to diagnose why 'no shore power pass thru' is happening, if the inverter is left ON, since all outlets WILL continue having power from the inverter.

If you turn the inverter OFF, you instantly know that you don't have shore power, and when you restore it, you will also instantly know that you DO. The microwave will start beeping, the fridge's compressor may then kick on, etc., all without having to look at the readout panel. You can even plug in a device, fan, or light bulb to an outlet to also serve as an easy indicator of shore power.

Lately, as it's been cold and we've been running several electric space heater versus using the propane furnace, I've found that it's 'safer' to turn the Inverter OFF when on shore power, while these space heaters are running.
The reason is this: if I lose shore power, I may not even KNOW it until my batteries are dead, or the Inverter's LBCO(low battery cut off) causes me to lose all power, since the heaters would continue to be powered by the Inverter, which is what I DON'T want!
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Old 02-21-2020, 01:01 PM   #9
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THOR #4735
I will also add that the '15amp' Shore 'MAX' setting should not be impacting whether you have incoming power or not, as it is simply a setting that allows the owner to 'limit' how much the Battery Charger uses, amperage wise, if you are plugged into a less-than 50amp full power outlet... or, really, even if you EVER want to limit your Battery Charger, simply to reduce it's amperage pull. I've done this recently, during cold weather, in order to keep the battery charge, especially if/when in 'Bulk Charging' mode, to pull too many amps and potentially trip the main Shore breaker while everything else, especially electric space heaters, are running.
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Old 02-29-2020, 09:43 PM   #10
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Great overview TurnerFam!
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Old 02-29-2020, 10:40 PM   #11
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interesting, and thanks, as we are now sitting in a Home Depot parking lot for the night. We are moving to a better site north of town, but this is a far as we got before the light started to fade.
We also have our boy's Camper parked two feet from us, pulled by a Penske truck, required because of our segmented move, and the Palazzo is not necessarily the easiest to 'maneuver', backing wise, around a corner of a site to hookup to the camper... but the Penske truck also gives us the ability to bring the washer and dryer, hot tub, grill, and all the other stuff to our new place.

We have no hookups, of course, but the Inverter and Generator serve us well, and also serve the Camper, since I simply ran an exterior extension cord from the Palazzo to the Camper for their power, at least a 15amp's worth. If the fridge is running, and the computer is powered, they are happy... : )
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'14 Palazzo 33.3 bunkhouse 34' diesel
KingTailgater2 Dish HD, 100w/5a SOLAR, BlueOx
100,000+mi since '14 - US, Alaska, Canada.... formerly Georgia, then NorthCarolina, now Alabama : )
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