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Old 10-05-2022, 07:44 PM   #1
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Unhappy Norcold 611v

I'm checking out our rig for a trip next month and wanted to make sure everything is up to snuff. Water check. A/C check. Hot water check. Furnace check. Norcold on AC check. Norcold on propane problem. I slide the switch to "Gas" and I hear it click three times and starts the flame. Cools the freezer to 30 degs. and refrigerator section to 40. Perfect. Overnight something goes wrong and both the green and yellow leds flash continuously next morning. Cooling stops completely. I slide the switch to off for a few seconds and back to gas then it restarts just fine and continues with both green and yellow lights on. Day two of this behavior and I'm a bit stumped. Any Norcold gurus care to lend some magic thoughts?

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Old 10-05-2022, 08:22 PM   #2
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Is your MH level or leaning to one side?
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Old 10-05-2022, 10:17 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Redsand View Post
I'm checking out our rig for a trip next month and wanted to make sure everything is up to snuff. Water check. A/C check. Hot water check. Furnace check. Norcold on AC check. Norcold on propane problem. I slide the switch to "Gas" and I hear it click three times and starts the flame. Cools the freezer to 30 degs. and refrigerator section to 40. Perfect. Overnight something goes wrong and both the green and yellow leds flash continuously next morning. Cooling stops completely. I slide the switch to off for a few seconds and back to gas then it restarts just fine and continues with both green and yellow lights on. Day two of this behavior and I'm a bit stumped. Any Norcold gurus care to lend some magic thoughts?
Pull the 12 volt fuse for the fridge in the power center (Mine is labeled accessories) or turn the master power off for one full minute with shore power off and the generator off. The fridge has a computer chip that controls the lights. It just needs a hard reboot.
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Old 10-05-2022, 10:44 PM   #4
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Didn't see 'propane level check'... doesn't seem likely you ran out, but... ;-)
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Old 10-05-2022, 11:45 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Redsand View Post
I'm checking out our rig for a trip next month and wanted to make sure everything is up to snuff. Water check. A/C check. Hot water check. Furnace check. Norcold on AC check. Norcold on propane problem. I slide the switch to "Gas" and I hear it click three times and starts the flame. Cools the freezer to 30 degs. and refrigerator section to 40. Perfect. Overnight something goes wrong and both the green and yellow leds flash continuously next morning. Cooling stops completely. I slide the switch to off for a few seconds and back to gas then it restarts just fine and continues with both green and yellow lights on. Day two of this behavior and I'm a bit stumped. Any Norcold gurus care to lend some magic thoughts?
Did you check your owners manual?
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Old 10-06-2022, 12:44 AM   #6
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A bit more info and thanks for all the good suggestions. I have the service manual and followed all the fault codes but none seem to fit. Spare propane bottle is being used and reads full. I'm maybe half a bubble off level side to side and sure that's a possibility but runs fine on AC so curious. I did read something about ripple dc from converter sometimes causing fault codes on LP use so I unplugged the shore cable just to see. Last check an hour ago freezer was 10deg and fridge was 38. Both acceptable and we'll see if it stays on overnight.
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Old 10-06-2022, 07:03 PM   #7
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Today like yesterday I checked this morning to find the flashing leds and a warm fridge. I double checked the model number and found it's a N611RT (not V) if that makes any difference. As suggested by Beau388 I shutdown all power to reset anything that might be hosing the works in there. I did notice it took 4 or 5 times to light the burner this morning. I'm beginning to suspect igniter or dirty orifice? When I checked I have a nice pointed blue flame no yellow as manual describes.

Any ideas?
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Old 10-06-2022, 09:11 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Redsand View Post
Today like yesterday I checked this morning to find the flashing leds and a warm fridge. I double checked the model number and found it's a N611RT (not V) if that makes any difference. As suggested by Beau388 I shutdown all power to reset anything that might be hosing the works in there. I did notice it took 4 or 5 times to light the burner this morning. I'm beginning to suspect igniter or dirty orifice? When I checked I have a nice pointed blue flame no yellow as manual describes.

Any ideas?
First, thrn the fridge off - then go out and remove the burner cover. Note the position of the spark wire to the burner tube. The fridge's trouble shooting instructions show the gap and position of the wire. If it checks out, turn the fridge to propane and wait for it to light. It helps to have some one start the fridge, so you can watch the spark and light sequence. The spark wire must be centered in the flame for the fridge's computer to keep the electric shut-off valve open. Of course the flame must be as shown in the instructions.
My fridges mis only blue at the very bottom edge. Most of the flame is orange and completely envelops the spark wire tip
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Old 10-07-2022, 01:58 AM   #9
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Thanks. I'll give that a try tomorrow morning.
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Old 10-07-2022, 06:48 PM   #10
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The puzzle continues. Yesterday morning I found both Leds flashing and warm refrig. Once again I turned it off back on and it re-lit with no issues. Just to eliminate any other possible issues I turned off the after market dual fan I'd installed months ago. This morning no errors. Cold Freezer and fridge. This may just be a fluke but puzzling to me. The schematics shows the power for the interior light which I used for the fans also powers the thermistor.

I'll leave it alone and keep an eye on it for now. These kinda almost sometimes mostly rarely problems are the pitts!
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Old 10-08-2022, 06:49 PM   #11
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Saturday morning and warm refrigerator with both leds flashing. Seems the fans are unrelated. Today I'll try the suggestions from Beau388 and check out the burner, igniter and see if anything is hokey there. Glad I found this problem before we hit the road!
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Old 10-08-2022, 10:59 PM   #12
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First checked the igniter for correct clearance ok. Next checked gas valve solenoid @ 85 ohms ok. Next I managed to unscrew the burner tube to check out the burner at the cost of the aluminum tube. Seems it was stuck to the brass fitting and twisted the hell out of it getting it off. I removed the burner as well and it looks pretty dirty. As I had to order a new burner tube I decided to replace the burner itself as well. So it seems I'm waiting for parts till Monday if all goes well with Amazon. Nothing is easy these days eh?
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Old 10-12-2022, 06:20 PM   #13
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The replacement aluminum gas line was a day late (thanks USPS). I decided to clean the old burner with a wire brush to remove all the buildup of crud around the exit slots and see if that was my problem. I reassembled everything yesterday afternoon and this morning the refrigerator is working perfectly. To summarize the flow charts provided by Norcold are great way to check and zero in on a problem. Aside from a bit of pain to remove the gas line the job is fairly easy for anyone to do. Hopefully my problems here will be helpful to anyone with similar LPG issues.
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Old 10-12-2022, 06:31 PM   #14
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Here's the chart for reference.
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Old 10-12-2022, 07:49 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Redsand View Post
I'm checking out our rig for a trip next month and wanted to make sure everything is up to snuff. Water check. A/C check. Hot water check. Furnace check. Norcold on AC check. Norcold on propane problem. I slide the switch to "Gas" and I hear it click three times and starts the flame. Cools the freezer to 30 degs. and refrigerator section to 40. Perfect. Overnight something goes wrong and both the green and yellow leds flash continuously next morning. Cooling stops completely. I slide the switch to off for a few seconds and back to gas then it restarts just fine and continues with both green and yellow lights on. Day two of this behavior and I'm a bit stumped. Any Norcold gurus care to lend some magic thoughts?
Every time you fill your propane tanks you should light all 3 burners on your stove top. This will purge any air in the line and if air gets to the line to the fridge it will go out. Not sure how to bleed the gas line to the stove but I'm sure it's easy to do. I switched my 611 over to a 12v system by J.C. Refridgeration in Indiana and could not be more pleased. Fridge is 38 on 1, and 0 in the freezer. Never had to go past 2 to make it colder, can't imagine how cold it would get on 5!!! ??? Bob Trice
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Old 10-12-2022, 07:53 PM   #16
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The puzzle continues. Yesterday morning I found both Leds flashing and warm refrig. Once again I turned it off back on and it re-lit with no issues. Just to eliminate any other possible issues I turned off the after market dual fan I'd installed months ago. This morning no errors. Cold Freezer and fridge. This may just be a fluke but puzzling to me. The schematics shows the power for the interior light which I used for the fans also powers the thermistor.

I'll leave it alone and keep an eye on it for now. These kinda almost sometimes mostly rarely problems are the pitts!
May want to find another power source for the fans cause those things really help a fridge to keep the entire box an even temp and make the freezer work right too! Bob
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Old 10-13-2022, 07:55 PM   #17
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Thanks for the tips Bob. Tell me more about the 12v mod you did. Is this something you did yourself?
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Old 10-13-2022, 09:56 PM   #18
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Thanks for the tips Bob. Tell me more about the 12v mod you did. Is this something you did yourself?
You can get the guts to replace the system on your Norcold if your someone that is good at this kind of thing. It is possible but I was not about to tackle this on my own and I'm glad I didn't because I had to pay them extra to run a 10 ga. wire to power the thing because it had a 16 ga. wire for the original since it ran on much lower voltage. They did a good job and it works great, but it runs on your coach batts so you need a lot of amp hours to make it over night without going below 12.2 volts!!! Very Important. The phone # is 260-768-4067. They are in Indiana and you can go to there website and read all about them---they are GOOD PEOPLE!!!!! Bob Trice
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Old 10-13-2022, 09:57 PM   #19
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You can get the guts to replace the system on your Norcold if your someone that is good at this kind of thing. It is possible but I was not about to tackle this on my own and I'm glad I didn't because I had to pay them extra to run a 10 ga. wire to power the thing because it had a 16 ga. wire for the original since it ran on much lower voltage. They did a good job and it works great, but it runs on your coach batts so you need a lot of amp hours to make it over night without going below 12.2 volts!!! Very Important. The phone # is 260-768-4067. They are in Indiana and you can go to there website and read all about them---they are GOOD PEOPLE!!!!! Bob Trice
I think all together for the parts and labor it was around $1200.00. Probably more now, that was 3 years ago
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Old 10-13-2022, 11:36 PM   #20
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Thanks for the info.
So it sounds like you bought a compressor type upgrade as opposed to the original absorption type? Probably the way all rv's should go in the future. Bigger better type batteries and inverters pretty much open up the market to a lot of possibilities. The cost seems a bit high and close to a new unit though. Glad it worked for you.
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