Oil Change question

[cavie]

Originally Posted by JoeDS

My dealer put in 1 quart too much. Cant fault him, many V10s call for 7 quarts but my Ford manual says 6. Be sure you look at your manual and inform the person doing it about the correct amount.


Tried putting a hose down the fill pipe but no way on a class A!



I guess the only way to get it out is by removing the drain plug. Super messy and hard to judge just 1 quart. Any other ideas?

Small pump on a drill from Harbor freight or any hardware store.

[Big-Foot]

Originally Posted by 10scDust

This a good way to do it yourself.
Also, when putting the dipstick back in, don't rush to pull it back out, allow half a minute to assure a good reading.



In an engine's internal oiling system, the filter is the last stop before joining the reservoir, then sumped back up to cycle again.
The only dry running is an empty oil filter.
Don't let that momentary lack of oil pressure, or oil light on, fool you if a sufficient amount oil has been put in.
Once the filter is full, oil backs up and pressure is developed!

Oil cycle: in oil pan > picked up by oil pump sump> goes through the oil pump > goes through the oil galley > then distributed to various engine components > some drips down to the oil pan lubricating different parts along the way, and at the end of the galley line, the excess oil being pumped goes through the oil filter and back to the pan.

Pressure is a direct reflection to the restriction of flow!
Air in the oil filter presents no restriction, thus the momentary lack of pressure, when a new one is put on empty.

Filling the filter first, you can do this if it makes you feel better, a lot of times it just presents itself as a messy problem.
Some oil filters mount horizontally on some engine applications.

At engine start up, if after 4-7 seconds & the light does not go off, or a pressure gauge doesn't read, then turn the engine off, look for a dipstick reading, and/or a puddle of oil beneath if nothing on the dipstick. Repeat if oil level good and add if needed, don't overfill!

(Honestly, I have often wondered about what the proper oil pressure is of a running engine in my earlier days as an apprentice. The pressure reading tells you a lot about what is happening. I would think concerns at low end would be at the lesser of 10 psi, less than that and a heavier oil is needed to fill the tolerances worn in. High pressures, greater than 25-30, would tell me maybe too thick of a viscosity, and reaching up around 50 psi, or +... would make me start to wonder if good oil lubricating flow was present, at that point I would check manufacturer's recommendations on oil type, grade, and pressures to be expected. On the RV/daily automobile end of the spectrum 10 psi to 30-35 psi should be good. Greater does not necessarily equal better!)

I’m sorry but your description of the path of lubrication is incorrect.
Since the fifties, automobile and aircraft manufacturers have used “Full Flow Oiling Systems” in which the full flow of oil from the oil pump is routed through the oil filter as the very first stop before going through the oil galleys to their various lubrication points. Oil pressure is typically read from a tap off the main galley which is “after” the oil filter although there are a few that have tapped the pressure right at the oil filter. I am including an old image here of a very basic system on an older Ford V8. I did look for an image of the Triton oiling system, but found nothing. I’m certainly open to learning if you have proof that the Triton / modular-Ford oiling system is different.
But until then, the system as I understand it goes like this -
Oil from sump is picked up through an intake screen and — oil pump - oil filter - oil cooler - main oil galley (main bearings, connecting rod bearings, piston crown cooling on some engines) - top end galleys to the cams where the cam followers and dampers get their pressurized and filtered oil. Oil that is returned back to the sump is oil that has already seen all bearing surfaces...

Dry starts are not easy on engines but many manufacturers seem to think tha the film remaining on the bearings is sufficient for start up and short run cycle prior to pressure. I am an advocate of prefilling the filter, at least partially.

[mpinva]

• Install a Fumoto drain plug/ valve
• Cut a plastic litre bottle and use it to catch the old filter
• Use a cheap flannel backed plastic tablecloth to catch the inevitable drips.

[bobj73]

Bought this on Ebay. Fits the filter perfect, and has a 3/8 drive on the bottom to spin it off.
That with the drain valve, makes it almost fun.
Now, for pumping the oil back in.

[rtewdtew]

Hi, I have the save V10 engine. I've only changed ours once since we got it, but if I remember correctly, I read where it called for 6 quarts and that is what I used and I did change the filter also. I hope this information is helpful.

Jerry & Diane / Oviedo, Florida

[mountainsam]

Originally Posted by gator

I've never concerned myself with a high dipstick reading with any engine I've ever owned and I've never blown an engine because of too much oil. You should be more concerned with not enough.

Too much oil can be nearly as damaging as low oil levels. The reason not to over fill is on some engines the crank shaft can whip to oil into a foam that does not pick up well by the oil pump. About like frothing on your latte.

[Pete'sMH]

I use a big styrofoam cup to remove the filter. Catches most of the oil and you don’t get burned. I like the table cloth idea. I usually use an old cardboard box from some recent purchase but think I’ll lay in a supply of table cloths if I can find them at the dollar store