Outside LED awning light

[Matthew]

Heading to Jekyll Island for a long weekend.
Stopped at KOA on 95 south for night on way down.
When plugged into shore power, outside LED awning light (strip) came on and won't turn off.
Switch has no effect.
Other switches on same panel (awning retract, inside lights, inside floor lights) all work with full operation of switches.
Any suggestions?
2020 Thor Four Winds Class C 31y.
Thanks,
Matt

[RV Pirate]

The obvious answer, sounds like the switch has failed. If that's the case, you could pop the switch out and remove one of the leads from the back of the switch. That should kill the lights until you can get a replacement. Be careful when pulling the connector off the back of the switch. They can be a bit delicate in my experience. Hope this helps. [emoji879]

[paulwadley]

You could also look at the fuse panel for the awning and pull it out.


Paul

[Matthew]

Thanks for the replies.
Figured it out.
I inadvertently turned on the awning light with the remote while manually leveling.
If that light gets turned on by the remote, it has to get turned off with the remote.
I guess some type of quirk?

[RV Pirate]

Oh yeah, I forgot about that one, sorry. Good catch. Happy camping...

[Scubawise]

i need to remember that..i use my remote all the time.. Happy Camping!!!

[Matthew]

Glad to share the information.
Anyone have an idea as to why the light has to be turned off with the remote when turned on by the remote?
The awning can be operated in and out by the remote (regardless of which button was operated first) and it is on the same panel.
The leveling system, generator, etc., can also be operated by remote and inside panels regardless of which button started the sequence.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Matthew

Thanks for the replies.
Figured it out.
I inadvertently turned on the awning light with the remote while manually leveling.
If that light gets turned on by the remote, it has to get turned off with the remote.
I guess some type of quirk?

You gotta wonder: what engineer thought that was a good idea? Maybe they couldn't figure out how to make the remote relay and physical switch work like dual switch controls have for a century.

[Matthew]

Now I understand.

[Tom N3EQF]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

You gotta wonder: what engineer thought that was a good idea? Maybe they couldn't figure out how to make the remote relay and physical switch work like dual switch controls have for a century.

Well yes, kind of. It's essentially two switches (or two sets of relay contacts) in parallel. So if either switch is "on" the light stays on. Both switches (or relays) must be in the "off" position or the light stays on.

Your household 3-way switches have an additional wire in play to make it work so either switch turns the light on/off.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Tom N3EQF

Well yes, kind of. It's essentially two switches (or two sets of relay contacts) in parallel. So if either switch is "on" the light stays on. Both switches (or relays) must be in the "off" position or the light stays on.

Your household 3-way switches have an additional wire in play to make it work so either switch turns the light on/off.

They're running wires anyway. The only problem I see is laziness or penny pinching.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

They're running wires anyway. The only problem I see is laziness or penny pinching.

Not really. When Thor MC began using the legless CofC patio awning (Latitude), it comes with a double switch (in/out and off/on) so Thor MC wired it as required. After about 100 complaints because the auto retract function did not work with the on/off switch in the off position, Thor MC simply deleted that switch. When Thor MC started with the LCI Rapid Camp system that was wired into the CofC system such that when the awning was retracted the lights in the roller would automatically turn off. There were not enough wires in the CofC harness to allow manual operation and automatic systems Rapid Camp system, so compromises were made rather than redesign the 48 different wiring harness used by plant 750 and countless other wiring harnesses for the other plants. CofC and Schwintek wring cables are not included with the coach harness but installed independently. Each 12 volt wiring board cost about $15,000 with the checkout light and relays. Remember Thor MC plant 750 produces 14 to 20 coaches a day, so there are no small wiring changes.

[Matthew]

Now I understand more.

[Lt Keefer]

If I turn my outside light on with the remote the only way to turn it off is to pull the fuse.

[joelynnpamplin]

Most likely, you get stuck with the buttons for switching lighting modes. Maybe you should replace this switch with a new one or check its connection? td {border: 1px solid #ccc;}br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;}

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Lt Keefer

If I turn my outside light on with the remote the only way to turn it off is to pull the fuse.

The older Rapid Camp board has a series of 12 volt relays. When you activate the switching relay to change from a hard wired switching circuit to a circuit activated by a radio frequency; only the radio frequency from the Rapid Camp can switch the light on or off. Fortunately turning the light off by using the Rapid Camp resets the manual system. The slides and the patio awning work differently, as each has its own computer controlled by the manual intermittent switch (push to activate) or by a radio frequently relay. As you said, pulling the fuse removes power from the system switching relay, allowing the manual switch to work again when the fuse is replaced.

[CHS]

This all makes me happy I don't have all that techno stuff. Manual switches for me. Don't get me wrong, I have a lot of smart stuff in my home (excluding me)
I just do not trust any tech stuff that comes out of an RV manufacturer.
One thing many do not know. I had a Grand Design and now a Thor Class C. BOTH units have a hidden car fuse behind the wall for the outside LED awning lights. Keep that in mind the next time your lights go to crap.
The Grand Design was behind the panel in the hall. My Class C is just above the Awning light switch as you enter the RV. NO mention on the schematics on either rig. Just a way I guess to get you into the shop for a $200.00 fuse replacement.

[joelynnpamplin]

Originally Posted by joelynnpamplin

td {border: 1px solid #ccc;}br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;}Most likely, you get stuck with the buttons for switching lighting modes. Maybe you should replace this switch with a new one or check its connection? That's what I'd do. And what did you do with the outside light when you stopped and set up camp? Do you always eat inside the van or go outside and set up a table like us? Previously, we had a table lamp with an energy-saving lamp inside, but this way, the light did not fall on the entire table, especially when we ate late at night in summer. At first, we liked such a dark romance, but it quickly got boring. We bought this LED strip https://www.vont.com/product/smart-s...-strip-lights/ and glued it to the right side of the trailer. It's bright enough.

Sometimes we turn on the white model and make it color. You can configure the LED strip in the app on your phone if you buy a smart option.