Oxidation

[lspotho]

Originally Posted by Jefvm

I agree with wintertree we have a 2012 ACE with full body paint.

Forgive my ignorance - what is full body paint, vs what comes from the factory? We have decals, of course - under and next to the decals, isn't that paint that is applied first? Or are you all just saying "the best fix for oxidation is a new paint job." And I would probably skip the decals... On the other hand, some people recommend a full body wrap (if that's the right term).



This is 2016 Thor Siesta 24' class C.
Thanks
Dan

[axis earl]

Originally Posted by lspotho

Forgive my ignorance - what is full body paint, vs what comes from the factory? We have decals, of course - under and next to the decals, isn't that paint that is applied first? Or are you all just saying "the best fix for oxidation is a new paint job." And I would probably skip the decals... On the other hand, some people recommend a full body wrap (if that's the right term).



This is 2016 Thor Siesta 24' class C.
Thanks
Dan

Dan, Full body paint is just that. Real paint instead of gelcoat fiberglass coloring with decals put on over it. Our Axis had the top of the front cap get pretty oxidized from the sun exposure to the point that it could not be buffed out and that was the first year of ownership. If would have known that the finish was so vulnerable I might have paid for covered storage.

[lspotho]

Originally Posted by axis earl

Dan, Full body paint is just that. Real paint instead of gelcoat fiberglass coloring with decals put on over it. Our Axis had the top of the front cap get pretty oxidized from the sun exposure to the point that it could not be buffed out and that was the first year of ownership. If would have known that the finish was so vulnerable I might have paid for covered storage.

Thanks for the explanation. One follow-up: is paint less susceptible to oxidation, or other damage, than the gelcoat? I assume the answer is yes... But, also, the paint job is probably not cheap!

What is the expected lifespan - perhaps what I see in my car - 10+ years? Altho my car was garaged for much of that - and my RV is not covered at all.

So much to learn.
Dan

[rynosback]

We used the Miracle Cloth for over a decade on our gel coated boat. It was docked for 6 months of the year in brackish water. We only waxed the boat once a year. The great thing about the Miracle Cloth is it does not strip the surface like compounds do. And the hotter it is the better it works. Even in direct sunlight.
https://www.amazon.com/Miracle-Purpo...gateway&sr=8-3
I used to buy them on EBay in 3 packs.

[mountainsam]

I just spent the best part of four days working on the oxidation (drivers side only). Ended up using old fashioned rubbing compound and Meguiars paste wax. I am too old for this crap. The end results are ok only. The rest of the rig shines like a new dime. I can't use the buffer for long spells as I have been waiting on hand surgery for 3 months. So after all that work and just OK results I have to agree that paint is the only way to go.
I have had four towables over the past 45 years and never had to spend over a few hours a year maintaining a quality appearance.

So, another vote for PAINT