Slide out problem!

[JoBo]

Hi,
Our 2017 ACE 30.3 is experiencing problems with the bedroom slide out. Just pulled into our 3rd campground on our current trip and the back (left side from inside the coach) of the slide out won't move. The front side moves fine.
I tried the electrical override (push button 6 times and hold on the 7th), but no help. Then tried the manual override (disconnect the 2 motor connectors from the controller) and manually push the slide out. Couldn't get it to move.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Jim

[16ACE27]

Sounds like a motor failure (or wiring to the motor).
Hundreds if not thousands of threads on the Interweb's many RV Forums about Lippert Schwintek slide failures, especially on heavy, full wall, slides; not to mention all the YouTube videos about troubleshooting and repair.

Unfortunately, not an easy fix in most cases. Just be glad it's stuck in the "IN" position so you can travel.

Easiest repair route is a mobile RV tech.

Best repair route is a Vroom slide system upgrade.

[JoBo]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Sounds like a motor failure (or wiring to the motor).
Hundreds if not thousands of threads on the Interweb's many RV Forums about Lippert Schwintek slide failures, especially on heavy, full wall, slides; not to mention all the YouTube videos about troubleshooting and repair.

Unfortunately, not an easy fix in most cases. Just be glad it's stuck in the "IN" position so you can travel.

Easiest repair route is a mobile RV tech.

Best repair route is a Vroom slide system upgrade.

Thanks Ted (again),

I've been looking at YouTube videos all morning and was hoping for a minor miracle (from the forum).

Any idea why the manual override won't allow the slide to be manually moved? Unless the motor is frozen?

Jim

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by JoBo

Thanks Ted (again),

I've been looking at YouTube videos all morning and was hoping for a minor miracle (from the forum).

Any idea why the manual override won't allow the slide to be manually moved? Unless the motor is frozen?

Jim

The electrical override won't work if the electrical connection to/in the motor is bad.

The manual override (physically pushing) is next to impossible without a football team's help due to the 300:1 (or 500:1) gearing in the motors. Removing the motors makes it more possible to physically push it open or closed.

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by JoBo

Thanks Ted (again),

I've been looking at YouTube videos all morning and was hoping for a minor miracle (from the forum).

Any idea why the manual override won't allow the slide to be manually moved? Unless the motor is frozen?

Jim

Even a frozen motor would yield to the manual procedure which disconnects the motor entirely. I’d be looking for a mechanical jam of some sort either inside or outside. Something broken or out of place. At least it’s stuck in and not out! Does your model have a useable bed with the slide in?

[JoBo]

Originally Posted by Pete'sMH

Even a frozen motor would yield to the manual procedure which disconnects the motor entirely. I’d be looking for a mechanical jam of some sort either inside or outside. Something broken or out of place. At least it’s stuck in and not out! Does your model have a useable bed with the slide in?

Hi, thanks for your reply.

Been looking for something jamming it closed but couldn't find anything. Luckily, we can still use the bed, but my wife now has to climb over me to get in. Could definitely be worse.

Thanks again,
Jim

[JimOIB]

It’s something in common with both slide motors for that slide. That boils down to an obstruction, slide extend/retract switch or motor controller. Do you have power to the motor controller - green LED lit…just making sure. I would re-seat the slide switch connector on the motor controller, it could have worked loose or have some corrosion.

[JimOIB]

From LCI website - nice flow chart

https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd_0002071.pdf

[JoBo]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

The electrical override won't work if the electrical connection to/in the motor is bad.

The manual override (physically pushing) is next to impossible without a football team's help due to the 300:1 (or 500:1) gearing in the motors. Removing the motors makes it more possible to physically push it open or closed.

It looks like I'm in a Catch-22 situation. Can't get to the screw that holds the motor in place (it's behind the trim on the slide out that's stuck closed) and can't get the motor out to manually push it open (without removing the screw).
Except for actually cutting the trim, any thoughts on how to remove the screw?

Thanks again,
Jim

[wrapped]

You can get the motor out without removing the set screw, carefully rock the top and vertical trim back and forth until you can get a screw driver between the trim and 1x6 board behind it, once you get it off remove the screws that hold the 1x6 board to the aluminum frame of the slide. Pull back the rubber at the top and expose the motor. Push a flat blade screw driver between the bottom of the motor and the block and gently pry motor up while wriggling the top of the motor. Trust me I have had to do this MANY times as 1of my motors constantly pops up. Being full-time and moving every 2 or 3 weeks and 3 schwintek slides one is 25ft fullwall, i am way to familiar with there workings. I have to work on them so frequently that when your done get a $5 wood dowel kit at harbor freight install a couple of dowels in back side of trim and there alignment holes in 1x6 with a couple of pieces of velcro. I can remove trim, 1x6 and reset motor in 5mins. Feel free to PM me with any questions.

[JimOIB]

I know for a fact I can push my 24F slide out by hand. Disconnect both sets of motor connectors on the controller. This removes all power to the motors. Now they are free to turn albeit with some physical manpower. My wife and I, one on each end of the slide, can push it out and back in. Don’t ask me how I know - sore subject.

If you can’t then you probably have a mechanical failure or a serious jam.

[wrapped]

When you use the override can you hear the motor spinning at the end that's not moving, if so the motor has popped up don't keep trying because the motor is spinning and twisting the wiring harness and will cut the wires. The motors ARE the brakes so to manually push slide you have to pop the motors up AND put them back down to travel or use 2x4 pieces between wall and metal L plates on back side of the 1x6 that are screwed to the side of the aluminum slide frame.

[Pete'sMH]

Not a helpful comment, for sure, but after having 5 RVs with slides we decided it’s just not worth it. We opted for a slideless class C and find the simplicity to be very refreshing.

[Dry Yachtie]

Originally Posted by wrapped

When you use the override can you hear the motor spinning at the end that's not moving, if so the motor has popped up don't keep trying because the motor is spinning and twisting the wiring harness and will cut the wires. The motors ARE the brakes so to manually push slide you have to pop the motors up AND put them back down to travel or use 2x4 pieces between wall and metal L plates on back side of the 1x6 that are screwed to the side of the aluminum slide frame.

I just had my lippert Slide stuck out and definitively found the following:

1. The Motor had popped up and spun instead of turn the shaft
2. It popped because the set screw had been partially forced out and was tilted upwards on the motor end.
3. I am convinced that a part of the issue is because the set screws were installed through the rubber gasket instead of either under or the rubber gasket cut out where the screw head hits the aluminum frame.
4. This weakens the screw's ability to hold the motor down and also increases the likelihood that the screw will work loose. It also shortens how much of the screw protrudes into the motor hole to hold it down

My fix:
Temporary at the site.


I cut out the gasket to allow the screw to penetrate further through the motor hole.
To access the motor I did have to remove the inside trim

Since I couldn't tighten the screw because of damaged threads I flattened a small L bracket I had and used another nearby screw to hold the metal piece over the top of the set screw to hold it in.
Ran the slide in fine.



Permanent:


First due to the screw being flexed so much the threads in the aluminum frame were too damaged to allow the screw to be tightened.

1. I re-tapped the hole for a 5 mm bolt (good next size bigger than the existing screw)
2. I cut out the rubber gasket to allow the head of the bolt to seat against the frame directly
3. I added a washer under the head of the bolt
4. I used Locktite Blue to help hold the screw tight as the aluminum frame doesn't allow you to tighten the bolt very tight (without stripping the threads)

I am fixing all of the set screws that are through the rubber gasket but will not bother with the re-tapping unless the existing screw fails. I would strongly recommend checking your rig from a preventative maintenance standpoint.

[JoBo]

Thanks everyone for the feedback, much appreciated.
But I'm having some difficulty removing the vertical trim piece. I've been able to get a screwdriver/putty knife between the "inside" of the trim and the (side of the slide), but it will only go in about an inch. It seems to be hitting what (looks, but not sure) like a metal "u-shaped" bracket. When I try to pry the trim piece off from that side, nothing moves, and I feel something is going to break.
From the "outside" of the trim I can see the rubber gasket attached to the trim piece but again, when I try to pry the trim piece off, nothing moves, and I feel something is going to break.
Any chance the trim piece is screwed onto the 1"x6" board from the inside?

Thanks again for any thoughts or suggestions you might have.

BTW, I've tried over and over again to manually move the slide out (after disconnecting the motors from the controller), but it's not budging. Even used a pry bar for leverage, but no help.

[wrapped]

If your trim is like mine you remove the square block in center of top trim by rocking top and bottom. Then you should be able to see 1x6 and pry and rocking top trim towards the vertical piece you need to remove exposing more1x6 . Then pry and rocking vertical trim. All trim is pin nailed to thr 1x6 alot of them,start by prying between 1x6 and trim. When you expose the vertical 1x6 you'll remove 6 or so screws that attach the 1x6 to slides aluminum frame then you'll have access to motor at top by pulling back rubber gasket.

[JoBo]

Hi, I've attached 3 pictures of what I'm looking at. I'm using a couple of wedges to hold the trim away from the slide to help pry the trim.
Is the trim just held on with adhesive or is there another fastener being used?

Is this similar to what you experienced?

Thanks again!

jim

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by JoBo

Hi, I've attached 3 pictures of what I'm looking at. I'm using a couple of wedges to hold the trim away from the slide to help pry the trim.
Is the trim just held on with adhesive or is there another fastener being used?

Is this similar to what you experienced?

Thanks again!

jim

The motor comes out on the inside. That's the trim you need to remove. The only thing you need to get to on the outside is the motor retaining screw. Some just drill a hole through the outer trim piece and fill it with a plug.

[wrapped]

After removing the trim on the inside see if the motor has popped up and then 4 pins are out of the 4 holes in the top block allowing the motor to spin without moving the slide. If it has popped up unplug the other motor at the controller and tap the extend retract button while wiggling and pushing down on the motor until the 4 pins lineup and drop into the 4 holes. Then plug in the other motor and extend slide just enough to remove outside set screw. Go inside and check or properly seat the motor then reinstall outside set screw.