Parasitic Draw

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

To be honest, I never thought about Chassis battery? But it does have some draws. I said 3 weeks but maybe I should have said at least 3 weeks? That is the longest I can recall when I did not use or at least start and run everything.

I do have a aftermarket disconnect switch installed by Dealer for my Chassis. I never use it, but if I was forced to put in real storage going a month or longer I would turn it off. I have no data points on that though. Our RV is at home, I will as a matter of routine disconnect shorepower 2 weeks or so at a time just to work the batteries.

If my chassis do go, I got the Emergency Switch on house batteries. My chassis battery is 4 years old so I need to start thing about new Chassis battery. Any ideas, I prefer not to buy another OEM NAPA FLA.

I your chassis battery is as hard to see in as mine I would get al low or no no maintenance battery. I got a sealed no maintenance battery from Walmart in the value line. When the Motorcraft failed in 2018 while I was the FL rally. it is holding up well.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Beau388

I your chassis battery is as hard to see in as mine I would get al low or no no maintenance battery. I got a sealed no maintenance battery from Walmart in the value line. When the Motorcraft failed in 2018 while I was the FL rally. it is holding up well.

All my batteries are easy access and easy to replace. I got AGMs on the house and was thinking if I should go AGM for the Chassis?

I don't do ANY maintenance on FLA batteries. They can't die fast enough as far as I am concerned. The OEM as a replacement battery is out although it has performed well with no issues. I had lots of issues with NAPA House FLA batteries though.

I am asking because I know my Chassis batteries do have some minor parasitic draws and I am not as likely to want to use my chassis disconnect unless true storage. Note: My batteries are fine now, but this thread is making me think to replace early.

Need a battery that has good cramping amps to match OEM but also handle the residual draws and be not require any maintenance? It is for F-53

[Wiley1]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

There are two power supplies to any newer radio - the main power and the memory power. The main power comes from the house batteries; the memory power comes from the chassis battery.

When I connected my new XTrons head unit in that way, my chassis battery was dead within a month. That is because my chassis battery isn't charged by the house converter.

The solution was to connect BOTH power leads to the house battery bank. Because that bank is always being charged by shore power, all is good and there is no parasitic draw on the chassis battery.

[crazylegs]

I'm a little late to the party, but don't underestimate the draw from even a simple security system. I had a 2015 Honda Civic that would kill the battery after 4 weeks of non-use. I disconnected the security and it would last over 2 months.

There are multiple draws on a chassis battery. To be safe, I added a cheap solar system of 200W (~$200USD) to keep everything juiced up while in storage. Connect directly to the battery so that they still charge when the house battery switch is in storage.

As mentioned earlier, replace the cheap crap batteries that came with the unit and get standard sealed batteries or better. Low liquid will kill the battery faster and I can assume that if you are not using for 3 or 4 weeks you are also not keeping the levels up.